Towne Creek Marina Beaufort, North Carolina

We were up and off the hook by 6:30 am on a fast track to go under the Surf City Swing Bridge for the 7:00 opening. As we approached, it became obvious there was no swing bridge. After a little research we learned that it has been replaced by a 65 foot structure which we could easily slip under. We were not disappointed, we were happy to be on our way early to begin the long day ahead.

Passing a tow on the ICW

Gorgeous pink house along the ICW

We were heading for Beaufort (Bo Fort), North Carolina 65 miles north. The morning passed easily until we got to the Onslo Swing Bridge where we found 8 foot shallows. We slowed our speed and moved cautiously, hoping it was just a blip and the depths would rise again. As we entered the area around Camp Lejeune, we saw another shallow spot at the New River Inlet. One of the green markers was clearly on sand, indicating that part of the channel was currently a sand bar.

Is that really a green marker?

Channel marker on a sand bar

The ICW runs through a target range at Camp Lejeune. It is closed for navigation during target practice. Big signs with lights indicate whether or not it is safe to pass. We came through here in 1983 and were stopped by a military boat. We sat at anchor for two hours until the recruits completed their training. It is quiet this time we pass through, so we cruised among the many targets along the waterway and moved on without delay.

Military Targets

We entered Bogue Sound which is lined with spoil islands. It's a very wide waterway that ends by running between Swansboro and Moorehead City. The channel is quite narrow and, at times so shallow we have to slow to a crawl as depths drop as low as 7 feet. We made the 20+ mile crossing with clenched teeth. This area is popular with boaters. The water is very jumbled and looks like sloshing water in a washing machine without the clothes. We were passed by hundreds of boats, some very courteous, others complete idiots! As we arrived at Moorehead City, a captain came over the VHF, hailing the USCG. He wanted to report seeing another captain drinking at the helm. Other boaters were not happy with this report and begin to harass the caller. All we wanted was to get across to Beaufort safely. We slid up through the middle of the chaos, around and under the high bridge that leads to Towne Creek Marina where things finally quieted down.

Lost fishing boat along ICW

Spoil Islands

Spoil Islands

Patriotic Home

Towne Creek Marina was shallow but passable for us. We went slowly, making sure we were within the channel markers. Dave called the marina who gave us instructions on how to make it through the harbor and into our slip. We were here last year with S/V Veritas but we entered this harbor from a different direction. It was easy to make our way in, following the directions we'd been given. We docked at the end of a face dock which has seen better days. Face docks cost more than slips because transient boaters like the ease of coming in and out of them. The Dock Master charged us the lower slip price because of the condition of the face dock we were on. 

Mystic at the end of the dock, on the left, flag flying

We walked into town for a beer at Fishtowne Brewery. As we walked over the Towne Creek Bridge we noticed that all the derelict liveaboard boats that we saw during our last visit are gone. Later, the Dock Master told us that Beaufort passed several laws that excluded anchoring within specific city limits. Instead of the favored location near the low bridge North of the marina, the boats now congregate near the high bridge south of the marina. The area next to Towne Creek was being developed when we were last here. It is finished now with a lot more dock space and a city launch ramp. Change is everywhere along the waterway!

Towne Creek has a tiki hut bar next to the docks. We stopped on our way back to the boat and tried to order a beer but the bartender was overwhelmed and never able to serve us. We had a nice chat with a local truck driver. This was a good day for u s. Dave's arms are sore from holding the tiller for many hours through the rough waters. We went to sleep relieved to have made it past Bogue Sound.

Towne Creek Marina

The wind picked up to about 20 mph at midnight, which woke Dave. He doubled all our lines, removed the sun awning, wind scoop and flags. He checked radar and found an offshore system bringing big wind out of the south that would change to southwest then to west before easing. We are lucky to be past Bogue Sound before this system hit. Sometimes things just work out!