Sister Bay Door County Wisconsin

July 30, 2023

Mystic was docked in the reserved loading bay for the Rock Island ferry so we had to leave before the first arrival at 9:15. We motored out and around Washington Island into the calm of Schoolhouse Bay to prepare our boats for a day of sailing. As we set our sails, the fishing boat that we helped the night before passed us, honked and waved hello! We were able to sail from Schoolhouse Bay to the big bay but the wind was on our nose once we turned south, so we furled our jib and dropped our main then continued under engine power. 

Fishing Boat Friends in Schoolhouse Bay
Boyer Bluffs Door County

The big sailboat we met at Fayette had left Rock Island, caught us and passed us by at Gills Rock. We slipped into the Sister Bay harbor from the north, through a channel lined by shallows, with Shoo Fly following close behind. We entered the Sister Bay Marina breakwater and took a left down the first row of boats. We were directed to slip #37 between two massive power boats that dwarfed our Alberg 35. Shoo Fly was a few slips away in #34, also tucked between much larger power boats.

Shoo Fly at Sister Bay

Shoo Fly reflection in the hull of BIG boat

Mystic and Shoo Fly between big boats

Mystic at Sister Bay

After checking in at the marina office we walked to Stabbur Beer Garden. We shared a fabulous turkey and brie sandwich, washed down with a cold Door County brew. Dan and Nena's daughter, Christine, grandsons Elijah and Emmit, and granddaughter Kristin joined us. We met Elijah when he spent a week visiting Dan and Nena aboard Shoo Fly at Nestegg Marine. We enjoyed meeting more of the Mooney family. The Stabbur is part of Al Johnson's restaurant, a very popular Sister Bay eatery. The roof of Al Johnson's is covered with a grass lawn. In the summer months, goats keep the roof in check by eating the grass. At times, mowing and raking is required. 

Goats on Al Johnson's roof

Mowing and raking grass
on Al Johnson's roof

Sister Bay reminded us of Key West. At sunset, everyone gathered to participate in the setting of the sun, staying until it dropped below the horizon. It was a sacred experience with a beautiful, pink and orange sky. Once the sun disappeared, folks drifted away, we returned to our boats and the marina quieted down quickly. 

In the morning, we were up early and set off on a dock walk. There was a sailboat nearby with young children aboard. A little boy about five years old got in the bosun chair. His dad slowly hoisted him to the top of the mast while he giggled and begged to go higher. His brother raced up and down the pier on a bicycle. Each child was trying to capture their parent's attention. 

Tiny Sailor climbing mast

Checkout was at 11:00 and everyone on our dock was departing at the same time. We backed out of our slip, with Mystic pulling to the port side like she always does, which placed us pointing in the wrong direction. Dave swung Mystic around and made a tight 180, with just enough room to spare. As we passed by a group of men aboard a power boat, they cheered and yelled, "Nice work Captain!". Later, we learned that Dan had backed out of his slip only to find a power boat had snuck up behind him, blocking his route out. He waved the boat back and made a close cut to squeeze out of a cluster of docked boats. The guys that cheered for us also cheered for Dan. They must look forward to departure time to watch how each captain escapes the marina.

We left the harbor slowly so Shoo Fly could catch up. One of our dock neighbors in a big power boat came out behind us and blew past, throwing a huge wake. They waved a friendly goodbye, clueless that the wake would make us rock violently. This is an annoyance that happens often to sailboaters.

We planned to spend the night at Chamber's Island but the wind was not favorable for anchoring so we decided to return to our home port. We motored along, two boats, in tandem, past the Strawberry Islands, and the southeast shoal of Chambers Island. We pointed our bows toward the Marinette Lighthouse, making the run across Green Bay like two racehorses heading home for dinner.

Shoo Fly running alongside Mystic

Jackson Harbor Mishap to Rock Island Chaos

July 29, 2023

We departed from Fayette, Michigan in very light winds. Our day was spent motoring along, enjoying an easy ride. Our next stop was to be Jackson Harbor on Washington Island for a two night stay. We called ahead to ask about depths because both sailboats have deep drafts; Shoo Fly draws 5 feet and Mystic 5.5, which means we need about 6 feet of water to float. After entering the harbor, we were told to pass the red day marker and make our way directly to the dock. Moving very slowly, with Shoo Fly following, we did just that. There was a boat sitting on the end of the dock, next to the channel where our slips were with folks chatting and watching us approach. We were about 200 feet off the dock when we ran aground. Dave attempted to back us off while I warned Dan and Nena not to follow. They turned around right at a floating green clorox bottle that someone had placed in the harbor. We were stuck there. Contemplating our options, we watched Shoo Fly come to a dead stop as they hit a rock. Dan realigned toward the channel we'd entered and made his way out. Dave kept trying to back off until the wind lessened just a little and we finally popped free. He quickly turned Mystic and headed out of the very shallow water. We passed the green bottle to our starboard, unsure of it's purpose but going with our gut. Once back into the deep water, we contacted Dan and Nena and made the joint decision to head for Rock Island, just across the bay, instead. 

Later, we talked to our friend Mark, a local experienced sailor from Nestegg. He told us that we should have aimed at the left corner of the dock instead of the right where our slip was. We were surprised to learn that Mark had placed the green clorox bottle at the left edge of the channel to assist boaters. Mark said that running aground in Jackson Harbor is very common for sailboats.

We beat feet out of Jackson Harbor and headed for Rock island. The big sailboat from Fayette was tucked inside the dock. The pier outside of Rock Island is completely exposed to the west winds we were experiencing so our approach was sketchy. We tied Mystic off then prepared for Shoo Fly to come in. Both boats were rocking pretty badly. As Shoo Fly attempted to tuck in behind us, her stern was getting forced into the corner of the dock. I grabbed the bow line as Nena yelled a warning that they were about to hit the cement pier. Dave used all his strength to hold them off, saving them from certain damage. In the process, their stanchion snapped off at the base. Later, Dan was able to tie it in place. It held incredibly well but they would not be able to trust that stanchion for the rest of the trip. 

Rock Island Concrete Dock

The captain of the 52 foot sailboat saw us being hammered and offered to let us raft up to him in the calm waters inside, but we declined their generosity. We usually only raft with boats we know well because you have to climb across their boat to get to land. We didn't want to impose on them.

The Rock Island ferry has two loading spots, one inside and one out. Where it lands is based on weather conditions in order to safely load and unload campers and hikers visiting the park. A small fishing boat was taking the ferry landing spot on the inside pier. We tied up about 1 foot from the yellow line where the ferry docks on the outside. We had to tip our solar panel so Shoo fly could tuck in one foot behind us. It was a tight fit! Both boats were getting hit with rollers on the nose and bobbing 2 feet up and down. It was rough as the winds increased and bouncing got worse. 

The Park Ranger asked Dave to help her move the little fishing boat out of the ferry's way for the next loading. The ferry's last run of the day is at 4:00. We planned to move inside right after but a power boat snuck in and took our spot. Resigned to spending a difficult night on the outside, we joined Dan and Nena for dinner aboard Shoo Fly. We heard a loud bang and felt a violent impact. Dan thought Shoo Fly hit Mystic but we found that Shoo Fly's metal toe rail hit the concrete dock taking a chunk out of it. It was time for us to move! 

The fishing boat had left and the power boat that took our spot on the inside informed us that they were leaving too. When Shoo Fly hit the cement dock everyone came off their boats to see what happened. The crew of the big sailboat offered to help us walk our boats around from the outside into the protection behind the pier. One of the kids helping was about 10 years old. This was an awesome example of the support we experience within the boating community. Nena took the videos below. 

Mystic on the outside wall at Rock Island
Photo by Nena Mooney

Preparing to move our boats
Photo by Nena Mooney

Moving Shoo Fly
Video by Nena Mooney

Moving Mystic
Video by Nena Mooney

Everything got better once we moved. Later, we had the opportunity to pay it forward when a fishing boat approached the outside dock and tried to tie off in the pitch black of night. We ran to grab their lines but it was so rough that they were uncomfortable staying outside the dock. We suggested they try the short end of the dock that also had some protection from the waves. We walked them around to the short end and their boat settled nicely. They thanked us and offered us a beer but we were too tired to accept. It had been an eventful day for us. As we walked away the captain hollered "and to think we heard that all sail boaters were jerks". We laughed out loud at the off hand comment that was actually meant as a compliment and acknowledgement that sailors are really not that different from power boaters in the ways that matter.

Three Boats at Rock Island
Photo by Nena Mooney

Rock Island Sunset
Photo by Nena Mooney

View of Mystic through boathouse

Boathouse View of Mystic & Shoo Fly

Rock Island Boathouse

We had to leave before the first ferry at 9:15 because we were in their parking spot. We got up early to walk to the Pottawatomie Lighthouse. The host greeted us and told us she woke to singing and chanting coming from outside at 3:00 am. It scared her. Someone mentioned it was a full moon and could be a Wiccan group. They were known to do this along the woods above the cliffs of Rock Island. She said the scariest part of it was that someone actually tried to open the entry door to the lighthouse.

Harbor Host greeting us at
Pottawatomie Lighthouse

We made it back to our boats before the ferry left the dock at Washington Island. Our final stop on our North Green Bay Loop will be Sister Bay on Door County. We'd weathered many "storms" on our journey but know that the most difficult experiences make the best stories. Especially when you survive them.

Fayette Michigan Ghost Town

July 27 - 28, 2023

On day four of our north Green Bay Loop, we woke to fog in Escanaba but we were able to leave for Fayette by 10:30. Big rain clouds chased us across Little Bay De Noc. I put our sun shade up while Dave was at the helm. It takes longer for one person to do this but I managed to get it up just as the rain caught us. We slipped inside the Minneapolis Shoal Light instead of going around it in order to shorten our trip, as the waves and wind increased. Dan and Nena wanted to get video of us passing the Shoal light so they pulled up beside us. Everything became very intense. 

Mystic passing Minneapolis Shoal Light

Video by Nena Mooney

Once we turned north we were hit broadside with six foot rollers. Putting out just a little jib helped settle Mystic in all that jumble. We could see Shoo Fly heaving port to starboard to port in the rolling waves of three that gave us a beating in three second intervals. 

Shoo Fly plowing through rough conditions.
Video by Nena Mooney

We had a rough ride until we slipped past the peninsula and followed two motor yachts as they entered Snail Shell Harbor at Fayette. Several boats were already in their slips, including the Looper boat, Freedom from Escanaba. The docks are tucked into the farthest curve of the snail shell shaped bay. A sandy spit was on the starboard side of the channel but there was plenty of water just off of it. Our slips, #1 and #2 were very protected, or so we thought. We'd learn that we were exposed to weather from the north here. Two more sailboats came in after us, including a massive 52 footer with a cool spiral design on it's hull. We would cross paths with them repeatedly during the rest of our journey.

52 foot sailboat with huge mast at Fayette

Fayette ghost town was a bustling community from 1867 - 1891. The beautiful cove at Snail Shell Harbor was once a waterfront village with about 500 residents, a hotel, school, town hall, theatre, barber and even a Doctor. Jackson iron workers manufactured charcoal pig iron used in the railroads. After only about 20 years of existence, they'd used up all the local hardwood, and iron processing methods became more effective in other areas, so the company was shut down. The waterfront had been a busy port but only pilings remain of the original docks. The crystal clear water is a tropical blue green under the bright sunlight. Magnificent white limestone bluffs line the shoreline leading into the port. Fayette is a gorgeous little hidden gem.

Park Map of Snail Shell Harbor

Beautiful white cliffs of Fayette

Buddy Boats Mystic & Shoo Fly

Shoo Fly & Mystic at Fayette

Reflections on the Fayette Docks

Original dock pilings

Nena with cliffs behind Shoo Fly

As soon as our boats were settled in their slips we walked to the Port Restaurant about 1.5 miles up the road. We passed the campground and beach then through a beautiful forest with trees that have been growing here for over 1,000 years. The park was full of happy campers, squealing children and campfire smoke. We enjoyed a whitefish sandwich and cold beer at The Port, our reward for a difficult passage. Gladys, our waitress, was attentive and chatty. She lives in Garden, Michigan, a small town in Garden County that is a big town compared to Fayette. She shared many funny stories about the characters who visit the restaurant. 

Dan and Nena Mooney at the Port Bar

The original buildings that remain in Fayette are set up like someone is still living there; each one it's own little mini museum with interesting facts posted on the walls and artifacts from the late 1800's on display. Some buildings are off limits, probably due to renovation or safety concerns. There is a huge hotel that includes a boarding house where many of the workers lived in tiny rooms or a dorm setting. One two story building is noticeably out of square. We never figured out why but there was no denying that the ends are not parallel. 

Our of square building (Town Hall)

Company Store

View of Village

Machine Shop

Big Bay De Noc behind village

Dave at the Furnace Complex

The Smelting Furnace Complex at Fayette
view through Mystic's port

Supervisor's housing at Fayette

Clouds over Fayette

Hotel and Boarding House

Hotel back porch entrance
to efficiency apartments

Company Store

Birds on furnace beams

Alley between furnaces

Jackson Iron Charcoal Kiln

View from inside Charcoal Kiln

Village View

Company Store view from the water

Smelting Fire Chamber

Machine Shop

Village Center

Dave's friend Bill arrived on his Harley early Friday for a night aboard Mystic. We went for a dinghy ride around the harbor, led by Dan and Nena in their own dinghy. It was a little bumpy and a touch wet. After exploring the harbor we set out to hike the four mile Overlook Trail. There were several perfect vantage points where we could get right to the edge of the cliffs for gorgeous photos looking down on our boats in the harbor. The trail was easy to moderate and well marked. The forest was filled with fallen trees which were left where they lay. It smelled of pine and had very little underbrush. We noticed that we were not bothered by mosquitos or deer flies.

Dan & Nena exploring Fayette's Cove

Dan & Nena at the Fayette Cliffs

With Bill at scenic overlook

View of Big Bay De Noc

Dave, Beth, Dan & Nena

Wide angle view of Snail Shell Harbor 

While we went to the Visitor's Center for ice cream, Dan and Nena returned to Shoo Fly. They told us that we missed a visit from the Great Loop Harbor Host who saw our Gold Looper flag. He returned to say hello and gift us a calendar with wonderful photos of the Erie Canal. He said he had not done America's Great Loop yet but shared fascinating stories about kayaking the Erie Canal and all of the other great lakes canals. He said Looping was on his bucket list. Being a harbor host has enlightened him to the experience.

After dinner we walked to the west shore, overlooking Big Bay De Noc, to watch the sun set under clouds that were leading in stormy weather. The shoreline was full of flat rocks and broken limestone as well as slag from the smelting days. The rain and wind arrived and chased us back to our boats. The storm started with a gentle pitter patter on our deck but turned into a long night of rocking and rolling, heavy wind, and cooling temps. The noise from the storm kept me from sleeping and woke Dave who got up to attempt to quiet our clanging halyards. We both heard a sailboat arrive at 11:30. We reached out to see if they needed assistance. They made it in easily and said they'd come from Beaver Island traveling for 14 hours.

Fayette shoreline

Dave, Dan, Bill

Nena and Beth

Sunset on the beach at Fayette

Sunset shared between friends

Storms coming in over the bay

Fayette sunset over Big Bay De Noc
Photo by Nena Mooney

We woke to cool, fall like temps. Bill said he slept well in spite of the storm. He loaded up his gear and headed off to continue his adventure on the Harley. We prepared for our trip to Jackson Harbor on Washington Island. Several boats left the harbor before us, including the Looper boat Freedom. The docks at Fayette were opening up for the next cruising visitors to explore this beautiful place.

Freedom leaving Fayette ahead of us