Saturday, August 28, 2021

Marinette Wisconsin - Home for the Winter

Our overnight stay at the dock on Rock Island was, at best, unpleasant. A big wind blew in and was slamming us into the dock creating a racket that made sleep almost impossible for me. Dave slept through the noise but I moved to the bow of the boat and covered my head with extra blankets. In the morning we found Mystic was held tight to the dock by a southwest blow. It was a challenge to get ourselves off and heading out of the cove. We released all of our dock lines except the stern. Dave put Mystic in reverse to release the tension while I grabbed the line and hopped on board. He pushed Mystic in hard forward and made a sharp curve to head away from the shallows. 

Mystic at Rock Island

Our short list of options included a stop in Door County on the east side of Green Bay but we'd made the decision to go all the way to our final destination, Marinette Wisconsin. We were very tired from pushing so hard over the last 10 days. Getting to Nestegg Marine would allow us time for a rest which was looking very appealing. We have next summer to explore Door County.

Bundled up on our way to Marinette

There always seems to be plenty of big ships to avoid

It took us about 8 hours to navigate the 47 miles from Rock Island around the tip of Door County then across Green Bay to the Menomonie River. The bascule bridge tender at the mouth of the river didn't answer our radio calls. Dave contacted Nestegg to get the phone number. Finally, we were able to pass under the bridge and slowly work our way up river past an industrial area and a lumber yard that were flooded by high water. We'd learn later that the lake was up two feet above average. We carefully passed Fincantieri Marinette Marine Shipbuilding Company which sits just south of Nestegg Marine. 

Menomonie North Pier Light

Fincantieri Marinette Marine Shipbuilding Company

As we approached Nestegg a man yelled a greeting to us from a sailboat on the dock. We waved and asked where we could find the gas dock. He directed us toward the interstate bridge ahead. Nestegg Marine is nestled right under the bridge which separates Marinette Wisconsin from Menomonie Michigan. There were two boats already there but yard workers came to help us slip safely in between. 

We were so excited to be at our final destination for cruising season 2021. We fueled up then walked to the Ships Store to talk to Aleah who has been working with us to set up winter storage. When we told her we'd begun our season in Rhode Island we learned that she lived in Newport and spent a lot of time at Watch Hill. Our chat about New England brought this year's journey full circle for us. She sent us to slip S13 on a dock near the shipyard that is used for temporary visitors. 

Nestegg Rowing Club

Park Sculptures at Stephenson Island Park

Fairy Garden

On the way to our slip we noticed a beautiful, mast-less, Island Packet 35 being moved to the haulout bay. It reminded us of our friends Susan and David and their IP, Veritas. We learned that Soy Amada was getting shipped to new owners in Mystic Connecticut. It no longer surprises us to have close encounters with folks who have shared connections but it always make us smile. Our slip was sandwiched between two sailboats, a Hunter and a Catalina. We'd soon learn that we had a connection to the crew of the Catalina too.
Soy Amada being moved to haulout bay

The Blue Heron Nesting Tree on Menomonie River

Mystic at the Nestegg dock

We walked over the interstate bridge in search of III Bridges Microbrewery which was about a mile away. We toasted the end of our 2021 cruising season with a Belgian Dark Breakfast Stout. It was laced with flavors of coffee and maple. We tried their brown ale too. Both were very good. 

III Bridges Brew Menu

Belgian Dark Breakfast Stout

We stopped at Jeff's Market for groceries before returning to Mystic. The folks on the Catalina were on deck. Mike and Donna are married; Tom is Donna's brother. Tom just purchased the sailboat at Nestegg. He plans to rename here MoorSea before departing for the inland waterway and south. They are intermittent Loopers. This section of the journey will take them to Florida. We chatted about our Loop experience and discovered that Tom and Donna were born in Connecticut. They've cruised Long Island Sound and know Mystic and Groton well. We all marvelled at just how small the world really is as we bonded, building a new friendship!

Dave, Beth, Tom, Mike and Donna
between Mystic and MoorSea at Nestegg Marine

With our new friends from Mystic Connecticut

We had a couple of days to explore Marinette Michigan, (the happening town) and Menomonie Wisconsin (the quiet, industrial town). We met the marina workers including Mark who is retired but works for Nestegg during the spring and fall migration of boats in and out of the water. Mark has a beautiful Catalina 34 named Pearl. He has done a bit of work on her including adding a custom hardtop dodger and a hydraulic dinghy davit storage system. In addition, he added a stack pack to his main. We were surprised to learn that he took all the teak off the deck and replaced it with maintenance free composite lumber. I have to admit it looked great, but I prefer the beauty of teak.

Mark's beautiful catalina Pearl

Marinette is an industrial town where the main work option is at the local shipbuilding company. We discovered Ironworks restaurant while on a walk through town. It honors the local blue collar community with an iron cast sculpture of workers eating lunch on the roof of the building. We didn't eat there but we enjoyed the art. We found our favorite restaurant at The Brothers Three which boasts the best pizza in town. It is very good pizza however we enjoyed the Friday beer battered ocean whitefish which comes with french fries, beans, coleslaw and rye bread, a steal for only $5.99. In addition, the happy hour beer price is only $2.00 a pint. 

Lunchtime at Ironworks

Brothers Three Logo

By the time our daughter arrived to bring us to the airport, we'd settled in nicely. Nestegg was not able to haul Mystic out while we were there but agreed to wait for our return from Connecticut to do so. Mystic would stay at the dock in her slip next to MoorSea. Tom, Mike and Donna would keep an eye on her until they departed. We would drive back to Minnesota to unload our truck then return to Marinette to settle Mystic on the hard for the winter. Aleah and the staff at Nestegg made everything easy for us. We are very happy with our choice of Nestegg Marine for winter storage. We are already looking forward to our next cruising season of 2022.

Monday, August 23, 2021

Rock Island Revisit - A Disheartening Return To Paradise

We were up very early for the trip to Rock Island. Our day began with a gorgeous sunrise that blanketed us in warm tones of pink and violet. An enormous perfect fireball rose from the east and moved through a bank of clouds, creating magnificent streaks of light. The waterway was calm and quiet. We sipped coffee and chatted about life and "what's next".

The journey to Rock Island was an 80 mile trek that would take us at least 12 hours. The forecast included chances of rough weather but we had to go while we could. We couldn't afford to lose a day of travel. When we left Beaver Island the marina was quiet. A south wind was holding us to the dock. Our exit was tight so, we carefully walked Mystic out of her slip and pointed her nose toward the channel. Everyone was still asleep so there was no one to wave us off.

Beaver Island Harbor Light

Breathtaking sunrise

Ribbons of morning hues

It took us two hours to get to the end of Beaver Island. We could see North Fox and then South Fox Island for a very long time. Summer Island came into view seven hours into the trip. The weather was holding up but we couldn't see much due to a heavy summer haze that rolled in. Everything was monotone creating illusions that challenged our perception and inhibited our sight. We had to navigate with our electronic charts and keep all eyes scanning the waters. The wind came and went and the lack of sun chilled us, even though we were in long sleeve shirts. Around mile 50, one to two foot waves met us head on but the wind remained light. At times, it became a rocky ride. We ran our engine at 2400 to move faster. Taking one hour watches helped make the time pass. 

Morning Moonshine 

Moon over Beaver Island

Early morning Beaver Island Kayaker

Beaver Head Lighthouse

As we approached Rock Island Pass a Freighter came up behind us then moved ahead showing us the way. The waves grew and the wind picked up, hitting us sideways. It was the roughest part of the day. We crossed into Wisconsin and gained an hour in Central Time Zone. As we cruised around the Northern tip of Rock Island we passed the Pottawatomie Lighthouse with the magnificent cliffs below. The view was spectacular.

Passing Pottawatomie Light cliffs




We approached the empty dock at Rock Island and sidled up to the outside. On our last visit, the island host directed us to the inside of the protected man-made basin adjacent to the boathouse museum. This visit, there was no host. In fact, the Island looked eerily deserted. It didn't take long to see that Rock Island was not the same lovely paradise we'd visited before. Covid had taken it's toll!

We visited Rock Island in 2013 when we delivered Mystic home to Knife River, Minnesota. It was June and we were the first boat to arrive for the season. The island was pristine and well cared for. The host told us about water snakes that liked to sunbathe on the dock we were tied to. 

We walked to the host shack to sign in but it was closed. We attempted to self register at the pay station but there were no registration forms. We noticed a woman beachcombing along the shore and approached her to ask about checking in. She said we needed an online reservation to camp. We explained that we were on a sailboat and expressed our surprised that all reservations were done online. She said everything had changed with the arrival of Covid. 

Rock Island Boathouse

Island Boat

Rock Island Rocky Shoreline

Very Cool Boathouse Design

Cove View From The Boathouse Museum

Rock Island Cove

Island Welcome

Mystic at the dock; Dave on the bench

Picnic Pavilion

We went for a long walk, first to the cemetery on the south side of the Island where we saw that there were many campers all spread out through the wooded campground. The trails were unkept and overgrown. We walked north to the lighthouse and looked out over the water we'd just cruised through. We'd hoped to run into someone in charge but had no luck. 

Mystic, our Floating Home

Cast Iron Island Urn

Caretakers Cottage

Carving Board

Pottawatomie Light

Pottawatomie Light

Pottawatomie Light

As we returned to the docks we reminisced about how beautiful the island had been in 2013. It is much rougher now and less welcoming. Although our last visit was early in the season, the island was heavily populated then. Visitors interacted and enjoyed the outdoor experience of life away from the rat race. It was the first stop we made aboard Mystic and is one of our favorite cruising memories. This visit made us just a little sad.

View of the Cove from Lighthouse trail

Sunset over the cove

View Walking back to Mystic Along the Trail

View of Door County Peninsula From Rock Island

Mystic at Sunset

Sun setting over Mystic

We were exhausted from our long day, so we ate dinner and retired for the evening. The sunset was amazing. Just like in the morning, the sky filled with pink and purple color that spread horizontally in ribbons; the beauty of it in stark contrast to the raw conditions on the island. 

The Changing Sky - Sunset Over Rock Island