The Anchors Of The Inner Banks

We left Elizabeth City and headed south toward our next destination, Beaufort, NC. We stopped in the town of Oriental to walk along the waterfront and through the neighborhoods. We'd been to Oriental on several occasions aboard different sailboats so we know the waterfront well. The fishing fleet at the downtown docks is across from the free dock. We stayed there aboard our Alberg 35, Mystic, during our America's Great Loop Adventure. Oriental is referred to as the sailing capital of North Carolina. The Pamlico Sound is the largest estuary lagoon on the East Coast. It's part of the Albemarle/Pamlico system with many great ports and places to explore. With a population of around 900, Oriental is a good example of small town America. We enjoy visiting whenever we can and have great memories from cruising the area.

Fishing boats in Oriental

Catamaran at the free dock Oriental 

A spot to watch the boats go by Oriental

After a nice walk through town, we left Oriental and drove to Minnesott Beach to take the free ferry to Cherry Point. Space is limited but we made it aboard, number 18 of 19 cars that got on together. As we moved south, another car ferry passed by, moving north. The ride across the Neuse River only took about 20 minutes but it saved us an hour driving time plus gas. Beaufort was only a little further down the road.

North bound car ferry

Last car in line, port side

Tucked in behind the Nav Station

We arrived in town and checked into the Beaufort Harbor Suites at the dive shop down the road, just a few blocks off of the waterfront. The place was ok, a good spot to stay while we explored the surrounding area. It was very quiet. Each afternoon, we sat on the second floor patio enjoying the sun and watching the world go by. There were only a few rooms filled and we didn't really see any other guests but we didn't spend a lot of time at the suites.

We wanted to explore the lower Outer Banks area so we took a drive along highway 70 to Harker's Island Visitor Center. We planned to take the ferry to Shackleton Island on Wednesday and hoped to gather information. After checking out the visitors center exhibits, and securing the information we'd need to take the ferry, we hiked the trails nearby. The Willow Pond and Soundside Trails took us through wooded areas and along the Core and Back Sounds. It was a nice, easy hike.

Mini church Harker's Island 

Peeking in the windows

Trail entrance Harker's Island

Ducks Unlimited Viewing Window 

Ducks Unlimited Viewing Shack

Waterfowl viewing dock along the sound

Ghost forest

Core Sound view

Sound view along trail

We noticed, right away, that most of the houses in the town of Harker's Island had anchors, covered in lights, and mounted on a pole or attached to mailboxes. We wondered what their purpose was. We learned that the Harker's Island residents historically decorated their homes for the holidays, but after a mass turnover of inhabitants, the newcomers just didn't give much importance to the lighting tradition. A group of long time locals got together to discuss how to resurrect pride by bringing back the lights. They needed a theme that represented their community. The group came up with the symbol of an anchor which had a double meaning to them. It represents the maritime history of the area but also the resilience of the people who remain in the outer banks in spite of hurricanes and Mother Nature's wrath. The anchors are made of strong steel; the residents are strong as steel!

Anchors of Harker's Island 

One large Anchor, Two Small

We continued to drive north to Cedar Island where the road ends, literally at the Ocracoke ferry. The small towns of Davis, Sea Level, Smyrna, and Atlantic were on the way. We saw more anchors displayed in each town. After our long drive, we spent an hour on Radio Beach in Morehead City, just over the bridge from Beaufort. We walked along the beach and spotted dolphins feeding on the ICW as boats moved slowly up the same course we took in our sailboat. Clouds chased us back to Beaufort where we completed a wonderful day with a glass of Black Cat Milk Stout at Fishtowne Brewing. 

Jockey's Ridge State Park Nags Head NC

Jockey's Ridge State Park in Nags head, North Carolina is a 427 acre park that is home to the tallest living sand dunes on the East Coast. We had a wonderful 70 degree day to explore, our first warm day in North Carolina. We parked at the trailhead on the backside of the dunes. There was a beautiful protected cove where you can swim, paddle, kiteboard and windsurf. The park has three ecosystems, the dunes, maritime forest and the Roanoke Sound. 

Boardwalk to the Roanoke Sound

Beautiful Protected Cove

Shallow Waters

Beach

Entry to Jockey's Ridge State Park is free. The dunes are a popular place for kite flying and hang gliding as well as hiking and sand boarding. There is a 1.5 mile trail that takes you over the dunes to the sound then back. We took the .9 mile Soundside Nature Trail through Live Oaks, Pines and Sweet Gum trees. Wax Myrtle and bayberry filled in the underbrush. Pets are allowed in the park but must be leashed. The sand was cool during our visit but signs warned that it can get extremely hot in the summertime. It is recommended to protect the paws of your pet when you visit.

We enjoyed our hike and the gorgeous views. We watched as a hang glider hopeful learned the ropes. Many people were kite flying while others rested on the peak of the dunes. We were amazed at the views of the Atlantic Ocean and the town of Nags Head. We heard that the sunsets are gorgeous! That alone, will bring us back to this amazing place.

Kite Flying at the ridge

One of the highest dunes

Heading for the Nature Trail

Enjoying the view of the Atlantic

First attempt at hang gliding

The instructor runs alongside for the landing

Kites and more kites

The Wright Brothers Monument Kitty Hawk

This was our second year visiting the Outer Banks! After a night of heavy rain and high winds we woke to clear skies with 39 degree temps. In spite of the chill, we drove from Elizabeth City to the Outer Banks and hiked the Wright Brother's Multi-Use Trail along the Catawba River and through the lovely neighborhood of Kill Devil Hills in Kitty Hawk. The sky was bright blue, the air crisp and chilly.

View along the multi-use trail 

Beautiful cove on the Catawba River

After hiking, we visited the Wright Brothers Monument, learning a lot about the early days of aviation and the tenacity of the brothers from Ohio who spent their lives learning to fly. Their work was the beginning of powered flight and led to aviation as we know it today.

Wright Brother's National Memorial Visitor Center

Full Scale replica of 1903 Wright Flyer

Hangars at Wright Brothers National Monument

Flight Distance Markers

Fourth Flight Marker 852 feet

End of 4th flight marker

Monument

Monument overlooking the Atlantic Ocean

First Flight Airstrip

First Flight Airstrip

Before returning to Elizabeth City, we drove to Manteo and walked the river trail to the Roanoke Island Festival Park. This was our daily walk last year when we stayed in Manteo. We drove the Manteo loop, over the highway 64 bridge, crossing from the northern tip of Roanoke Island to Manns Harbor, then back over the causeway to Nags Head. The bridge was closed last year. Only one lane was open this year.

By midweek, the temperature had dropped to 34. We drove to the Dismal Swamp Canal Visitors Center and hiked the boardwalk trail through swampy marshes, then north on the canal trail until it ended. It runs along the Dismal Swamp Canal which some Loopers transit on their way north to Virginia from North Carolina. It's shallow so we were not able to take our deep draft Alberg 35, Mystic, through but we transited it in our Coronado, Keewatin in 1982. 

The Martha Washington trail was just off the Canal Trail. We walked about a mile on it before turning back. We hopped on the Supple Jack Trail that appeared to run parallel to the canal trail but turned back because it headed away from our car. It was beautiful, shaded and covered in moss. A deer was eating new shoots in the swamp. She raised her head to acknowledge us but continued on with her meal, unbothered by our presence. The trails are very swampy. 

We enjoy seeing new places but also love visiting the special areas we've seen before. North Carolina continues to draw us back. We find adventure each time we are there.

Dismal Swamp Canal mile 26

Hiking the canal trail

Supple Jack Trail Dismal Swamp