Fayette Michigan Ghost Town

July 27 - 28, 2023

On day four of our north Green Bay Loop, we woke to fog in Escanaba but we were able to leave for Fayette by 10:30. Big rain clouds chased us across Little Bay De Noc. I put our sun shade up while Dave was at the helm. It takes longer for one person to do this but I managed to get it up just as the rain caught us. We slipped inside the Minneapolis Shoal Light instead of going around it in order to shorten our trip, as the waves and wind increased. Dan and Nena wanted to get video of us passing the Shoal light so they pulled up beside us. Everything became very intense. 

Mystic passing Minneapolis Shoal Light

Video by Nena Mooney

Once we turned north we were hit broadside with six foot rollers. Putting out just a little jib helped settle Mystic in all that jumble. We could see Shoo Fly heaving port to starboard to port in the rolling waves of three that gave us a beating in three second intervals. 

Shoo Fly plowing through rough conditions.
Video by Nena Mooney

We had a rough ride until we slipped past the peninsula and followed two motor yachts as they entered Snail Shell Harbor at Fayette. Several boats were already in their slips, including the Looper boat, Freedom from Escanaba. The docks are tucked into the farthest curve of the snail shell shaped bay. A sandy spit was on the starboard side of the channel but there was plenty of water just off of it. Our slips, #1 and #2 were very protected, or so we thought. We'd learn that we were exposed to weather from the north here. Two more sailboats came in after us, including a massive 52 footer with a cool spiral design on it's hull. We would cross paths with them repeatedly during the rest of our journey.

52 foot sailboat with huge mast at Fayette

Fayette ghost town was a bustling community from 1867 - 1891. The beautiful cove at Snail Shell Harbor was once a waterfront village with about 500 residents, a hotel, school, town hall, theatre, barber and even a Doctor. Jackson iron workers manufactured charcoal pig iron used in the railroads. After only about 20 years of existence, they'd used up all the local hardwood, and iron processing methods became more effective in other areas, so the company was shut down. The waterfront had been a busy port but only pilings remain of the original docks. The crystal clear water is a tropical blue green under the bright sunlight. Magnificent white limestone bluffs line the shoreline leading into the port. Fayette is a gorgeous little hidden gem.

Park Map of Snail Shell Harbor

Beautiful white cliffs of Fayette

Buddy Boats Mystic & Shoo Fly

Shoo Fly & Mystic at Fayette

Reflections on the Fayette Docks

Original dock pilings

Nena with cliffs behind Shoo Fly

As soon as our boats were settled in their slips we walked to the Port Restaurant about 1.5 miles up the road. We passed the campground and beach then through a beautiful forest with trees that have been growing here for over 1,000 years. The park was full of happy campers, squealing children and campfire smoke. We enjoyed a whitefish sandwich and cold beer at The Port, our reward for a difficult passage. Gladys, our waitress, was attentive and chatty. She lives in Garden, Michigan, a small town in Garden County that is a big town compared to Fayette. She shared many funny stories about the characters who visit the restaurant. 

Dan and Nena Mooney at the Port Bar

The original buildings that remain in Fayette are set up like someone is still living there; each one it's own little mini museum with interesting facts posted on the walls and artifacts from the late 1800's on display. Some buildings are off limits, probably due to renovation or safety concerns. There is a huge hotel that includes a boarding house where many of the workers lived in tiny rooms or a dorm setting. One two story building is noticeably out of square. We never figured out why but there was no denying that the ends are not parallel. 

Our of square building (Town Hall)

Company Store

View of Village

Machine Shop

Big Bay De Noc behind village

Dave at the Furnace Complex

The Smelting Furnace Complex at Fayette
view through Mystic's port

Supervisor's housing at Fayette

Clouds over Fayette

Hotel and Boarding House

Hotel back porch entrance
to efficiency apartments

Company Store

Birds on furnace beams

Alley between furnaces

Jackson Iron Charcoal Kiln

View from inside Charcoal Kiln

Village View

Company Store view from the water

Smelting Fire Chamber

Machine Shop

Village Center

Dave's friend Bill arrived on his Harley early Friday for a night aboard Mystic. We went for a dinghy ride around the harbor, led by Dan and Nena in their own dinghy. It was a little bumpy and a touch wet. After exploring the harbor we set out to hike the four mile Overlook Trail. There were several perfect vantage points where we could get right to the edge of the cliffs for gorgeous photos looking down on our boats in the harbor. The trail was easy to moderate and well marked. The forest was filled with fallen trees which were left where they lay. It smelled of pine and had very little underbrush. We noticed that we were not bothered by mosquitos or deer flies.

Dan & Nena exploring Fayette's Cove

Dan & Nena at the Fayette Cliffs

With Bill at scenic overlook

View of Big Bay De Noc

Dave, Beth, Dan & Nena

Wide angle view of Snail Shell Harbor 

While we went to the Visitor's Center for ice cream, Dan and Nena returned to Shoo Fly. They told us that we missed a visit from the Great Loop Harbor Host who saw our Gold Looper flag. He returned to say hello and gift us a calendar with wonderful photos of the Erie Canal. He said he had not done America's Great Loop yet but shared fascinating stories about kayaking the Erie Canal and all of the other great lakes canals. He said Looping was on his bucket list. Being a harbor host has enlightened him to the experience.

After dinner we walked to the west shore, overlooking Big Bay De Noc, to watch the sun set under clouds that were leading in stormy weather. The shoreline was full of flat rocks and broken limestone as well as slag from the smelting days. The rain and wind arrived and chased us back to our boats. The storm started with a gentle pitter patter on our deck but turned into a long night of rocking and rolling, heavy wind, and cooling temps. The noise from the storm kept me from sleeping and woke Dave who got up to attempt to quiet our clanging halyards. We both heard a sailboat arrive at 11:30. We reached out to see if they needed assistance. They made it in easily and said they'd come from Beaver Island traveling for 14 hours.

Fayette shoreline

Dave, Dan, Bill

Nena and Beth

Sunset on the beach at Fayette

Sunset shared between friends

Storms coming in over the bay

Fayette sunset over Big Bay De Noc
Photo by Nena Mooney

We woke to cool, fall like temps. Bill said he slept well in spite of the storm. He loaded up his gear and headed off to continue his adventure on the Harley. We prepared for our trip to Jackson Harbor on Washington Island. Several boats left the harbor before us, including the Looper boat Freedom. The docks at Fayette were opening up for the next cruising visitors to explore this beautiful place.

Freedom leaving Fayette ahead of us