We trained as best we could in Minnesota for six months prior to our Grand Canyon Rim to Rim hike on May 22nd. We were blessed with a top notch support team, our friends Dan and Nena Mooney, who drove us to our north rim starting point and were waiting for us when we popped out of the south rim.
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Dave, Dan Mooney,
Beth and Nena Mooney |
We reserved accommodations at Kaibab Lodge near the North Rim in a cute little cabin that overlooked a peaceful meadow. After the hike, we stayed in adjoining rooms at Bright Angel Lodge, just steps off the south rim trailhead. Both were convenient for our Grand Canyon R2R hike.
We entered North Kaibab trail at 5:45 am bundled in layers to protect ourselves from the 28 degree temps. The trail was lined with pine and aspen trees. Our steep descent into the canyon was much tougher than expected. The terrain was rocky and had steps that were not uniform in height or distance between them. The path was a mixture of sand, stationary and loose rock. We began taking the steps sideways to alleviate the stress on our joints as we wound our way down one switch back after another.
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Temp at the start of our hike
Photo by Nena Mooney |
Much of North Kaibab Trail consisted of drop offs next to the three foot wide path. The trail is carved into the cliffs with rock on one side and the deep canyon on the other. It was terrifying looking over the edge but the views around us were breathtaking. At times I had to concentrate on my feet to maintain my composure and battle my fear of heights.
Thumbs up Video
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| Hikers at Coconino Overlook |
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| Morning sunrise in the canyon |
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| Supai Tunnel |
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| Supai Tunnel |
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| Hiking along Redwall Limestone |
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| First view of Redwall Bridge |
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| Challenging footing |
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| Steep drop offs along the trail |
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| Uneven stairs |
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Redwall Bridge
3,274 feet below the trailhead |
Roaring Springs waterfall came into view across the canyon from us. You can't miss this amazing cascade that provides all the drinking water to the canyon. The falls gush out of the cliffs and the millions of gallons of water flow down to create Bright Angel Creek which feeds the Colorado River. It is truly a magnificent view.
Roaring Springs Falls Video
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| Our surrounding view at Roaring Falls |
We arrived at the Manzanita rest stop in three hours, and took a refreshing half hour break, eating hard boiled eggs washed down with electrolytes. There is a chalk board with messages left by hikers and a posting of trail information. Heading across the bottom of the canyon, we walked along the beautiful Bright Angel Creek where cacti were blooming beside the trail and yucca plants soared above us.
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| Information and message board |
Bright Angel Creek Video
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| Bright Angel Creek |
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| Bright Angel Creek |
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| Crossing the bridge just south of Manzanita |
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| Bright Angel Creek |
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| Waterfall Along Bright Angel Creek |
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| Bright Angel Creek along trail |
Roaring Bright Angel Creek Video
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| Yucca growing amongst the cliffs |
Bright Angel Creek at
Cottonwood Campground Video
We passed Cottonwood campground and entered the box which consists of massive cliffs made of Vishnu Schist rock, the oldest rock in the canyon. The temperature was 80 degrees but would rise to 90 while we were making our way through. We had fleeting reprieves from the hot sun under the cool red rock overhangs and in the shaded curves. After crossing over many creeks by selecting stable stones to step on, we realized it was easier to walk through the water. The views were gorgeous! The box heats up quickly and can become dangerous. There is a lack of air flow and hikers are exposed to the sun for a good four miles. We could feel the importance of getting out of the box as soon as possible.
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| The canyon gets a little warm |
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Bridge leading into the box
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Crossing a creek Video
We arrived at Phantom Ranch around 1:30 where we sat in the shade and drank the famous refreshing lemonade with a free refill. The six hour down hill North Kaibab trail took a toll on my toes. I nursed my blisters while we rested. A woman offered me supplies but I'd packed a small first aid kit. I changed my socks before we continued on for the most challenging part of the hike, the climb out Bright Angel Trail.
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| Shade and Lemonade |
We started the hike out around 2:00. The mules were munching oats in their coral when we passed. We crossed the silver bridge over the fast flowing and amazingly beautiful Colorado river. I thought it would be scary but compared to all we'd been through, it was exhilarating. Despite being a suspension bridge, it didn't have any movement like others we'd experienced. We watched a helicopter carry supplies into the ranch all afternoon. It soared overhead then hovered at the work site near the bridge and Phantom Ranch.
We reached the corkscrew and endured the steep switchbacks that make you feel like you are going nowhere fast. Havasu Gardens is about 4.5 miles from the south trailhead. We passed through there around 6:00 pm, later than we planned. Dave captured a cell phone signal and was able to send a message to Dan and Nena at the south rim to update them with our ETA. We entered the final switch backs and slowly climbed up endless uneven stairs. Keeping my eyes on my feet and the trail, I was barely impressed by the sight of a scorpion resting along my path.
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| Crossing the Silver Bridge |
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| Colorado River |
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| The Corkscrew |
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| Havasupai Garden View |
The sun slipped behind the rim of the canyon around 8:00 pm. We continued under headlights for the final hour of our hike. Instinct kept us away from the black abyss that signaled the treacherous edge of the trail. We could see other hikers ahead and behind us now, their headlamps bobbed with their gate. We both got sick during the last three miles up Bright Angel Trail. Our fingers were swollen and blue. Fluid retention went all the way into the back of our hands past our knuckles. Later we would realize that we'd made a critical error. We should have been on a schedule for consuming hydration and calories. Our bodies were being pushed to the limit by the intensity of our physical exertion. We'd lost our appetites and our judgement had became diminished. In addition, we were drinking too much plain water. What we needed was electrolytes and protein but we were more focused on getting out of the canyon.
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| Sun setting over the South Rim |
It felt like we'd never reach the south rim but we kept moving one step at a time, not even stopping for breaks. The steps leading out of Bright Angel Trail were not standard height. Dave was in the lead and would turn to grab my hand and drag me up the highest of them.
We passed a group of young men who told us we were close to the rim. We just shrugged at them and kept moving one foot in front of the other. It turned out we passed them at Bright Angel Archway which is very close to the trailhead, but we couldn't see it in the dark. We could hear yelling from the top though. It was a gal named Denise calling to her husband Walter. She cheered for us as we popped out of the trail.
Someone asked who was picking us up. We were disoriented and exhausted, but said we had friends who were meeting us. Nena came out of the darkness and said, "yes you do have friends, we are here for you". It was 9:00 pm. We completed the grueling conditions of this challenging hike in 15 hours and 15 minutes. We were in awe of nature's gifts and proud of our fortitude during our most difficult moments. This hike was one of the toughest things we'd ever accomplished! We each lost seven pounds in the Canyon and I lost seven toenails!
We've been asked if we'd do it again. On the day of our hike the answer would have been a resounding NO! Like other challenges we've taken on, with time, the struggle has been replaced with positive memories. The canyon is remarkably beautiful! We'd love to go back! Next time, we'll take it slower, maybe camp and spend more time down in the Canyon.
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We survived North Kaibab
To Bright Angel |
