Fayette Michigan Ghost Town

July 27 - 28, 2023

On day four of our north Green Bay Loop, we woke to fog in Escanaba but it lifted in time for us to leave for Fayette by 10:30. Big rain clouds chased us across Little Bay De Noc. I put our sun tarp up while Dave was at the helm. It takes longer for one person to do this but I managed to get it up just as the rain caught us. As the waves and wind increased, we slipped inside the Minneapolis Shoal Light instead of going around it in order to shorten our trip. Dan and Nena wanted to get video of us passing the Shoal light so they pulled up beside us. Everything became very intense. 

Mystic passing Minneapolis Shoal Light

Video by Nena Mooney

Once we turned north we were hit broadside with six foot rollers. Putting out just a little jib helped settle Mystic in all that jumble. We could see Shoo Fly heaving port to starboard to port in the rolling waves of three that gave us a beating in three second intervals. 

Shoo Fly plowing through rough conditions.
Video by Nena Mooney

We had a rough ride until we slipped past the peninsula and followed two motor yachts into Snail Shell Harbor at Fayette. Several boats were already in their slips, including the Looper boat, Freedom from Escanaba. The docks are tucked into the farthest curve of the snail shell shaped bay with a sandy spit on the starboard side of the channel. There was plenty of water just off of it. Our slips, #1 and #2, were very protected, or so we thought. During our stay, we'd learn that we were exposed to weather from the north here. Two more sailboats came in after us, including a massive 52 footer with a cool spiral design on it's hull. We would cross paths with them repeatedly during the rest of our journey.

52 foot sailboat with huge mast at Fayette

Fayette ghost town is a Michigan State Park. From 1867 - 1891 it was a bustling community. The beautiful cove at Snail Shell Harbor was once the waterfront of a village with about 500 residents, a hotel, school, town hall, theatre, barber and even a Doctor. Jackson iron workers manufactured charcoal pig iron used in the railroads. After about 20 years of existence, they'd used up all the local hardwood, and iron processing methods became more effective in other areas, so the company was shut down. The waterfront had been a busy port but only pilings remain of the original docks. The crystal clear water is tropical blue green under the bright sunlight. Magnificent white limestone bluffs line the shoreline leading into the port. Fayette is a gorgeous little hidden gem.

Park Map of Snail Shell Harbor

Beautiful white cliffs of Fayette

Buddy Boats Mystic & Shoo Fly

Shoo Fly & Mystic at Fayette

Reflections on the Fayette Docks

Original dock pilings

Nena with cliffs behind Shoo Fly

As soon as our boats were settled we walked to the Port Restaurant about 1.5 miles up the road. We passed the park's campground and beach then through a beautiful forest with trees that have been growing here for over 1,000 years. The park was full of happy campers, squealing children and campfire smoke. We enjoyed a whitefish sandwich and cold beer at The Port, our reward for a difficult passage. Gladys, our waitress, was attentive and chatty. She lives in Garden, Michigan, a small town in Garden County that is a big town compared to Fayette. She shared many funny stories about the characters who visit the restaurant. 

Dan and Nena Mooney at the Port Bar

The original buildings that remain in Fayette are each a little mini museum with interesting facts posted on the walls and artifacts from the late 1800's on display. Some buildings are off limits, probably due to renovation or safety concerns. The workers lived in a huge hotel and boarding house, in tiny rooms if they could afford the privacy or a dorm setting if not. The Town Hall building is noticeably out of square. We never figured out why but there was no denying that the ends are not parallel. 

Town Hall building (not square)

Company Store

View of Village

Machine Shop

Big Bay De Noc behind village

Dave at the Furnace Complex

The Smelting Furnace Complex at Fayette
view through Mystic's port

Supervisor's housing at Fayette

Clouds over Fayette

Hotel and Boarding House

Hotel back porch entrance
to efficiency apartments

Company Store

Birds on furnace beams

Alley between furnaces

Jackson Iron Charcoal Kiln

View from inside Charcoal Kiln

Village View

Company Store view from the water

Smelting Fire Chamber

Machine Shop

Village Center

Dave's friend Bill arrived on his Harley early Friday for a night aboard Mystic. We went for a dinghy ride around the harbor, led by Dan and Nena in their own dinghy. It was a little bumpy and a touch wet but it was fun cruising along the base of the white cliffs. After exploring the harbor we set out to hike the four mile Overlook Trail. There were several perfect vantage points where we could get right to the edge and take gorgeous photos of our boats in the harbor. The trail was easy to moderate and well marked. The forest smelled of pine and was filled with fallen trees which were left where they lay amongst very little underbrush. We noticed that we were not bothered by mosquitos or deer flies.

Dan & Nena exploring Fayette's Cove

Dan & Nena at the Fayette Cliffs

With Bill at scenic overlook

View of Big Bay De Noc

Dave, Beth, Dan & Nena

Wide angle view of Snail Shell Harbor 

We went to the Visitor's Center for ice cream with Bill, missing a visit from the Great Loop Harbor Host who saw our Gold Looper flag. Dan and Nena suggested he stop back. He returned and gifted us a calendar with wonderful photos of the Erie Canal. America's Great Loop was on his bucket list. We chatted about our experiences and he shared fascinating stories about kayaking the Erie Canal and all of the other great lakes canals.

After dinner we walked to the west shore, overlooking Big Bay De Noc, to watch the sun set under clouds that were bringing in stormy weather. The shoreline was full of flat rocks and broken limestone as well as slag from the smelting days. The rain and wind arrived and chased us back to our boats. The storm started with a gentle pitter patter on our deck but turned into a long night of rocking and rolling, heavy wind, and cooling temps. The noise from the storm kept me from sleeping and woke Dave who got up to attempt to quiet our clanging halyards. We both heard a sailboat arrive at 11:30. We reached out to see if they needed assistance. They made it in easily and said they'd come from Beaver Island traveling for 14 hours.

Fayette shoreline

Dave, Dan, Bill

Nena and Beth

Sunset on the beach at Fayette

Sunset shared between friends

Storms coming in over the bay

Fayette sunset over Big Bay De Noc
Photo by Nena Mooney

We woke to cool, fall like temps. Bill said he slept well in spite of the storm. He loaded up his gear and headed off to continue his adventure on the Harley. We prepared for our trip to Washington Island. Several boats left the harbor before us, including the Looper boat Freedom. The docks at Fayette were opening up for the next cruising visitors to explore this beautiful place.

Freedom leaving Fayette ahead of us

Escanaba Michigan

July 25 - 26, 2023

We left Cedar River late morning on day two of our north Green Bay Loop cruise. Favorable winds allowed us to let the jib out two hours into our journey. We added the main soon after and continued under full sail all the way to the Escanaba entrance channel. Everything was in our favor for an afternoon of exceptional sailing. It was easy getting into the harbor and finding our slips. We've been to Escanaba several times before after purchasing Mystic at Vinette Boat works in 2012. This is our first visit to the marina in our boat.

Escanaba Entry Channel

Escanaba sits along Little Bay De Noc

The slips at Escanaba are exceptionally wide. A third boat could easily fit between Mystic and Shoo Fly. After checking in at the marina, we walked into town with Dan & Nena, making a stop at St. Vinny's thrift store. Along the way, we passed a couple enjoying lunch in their Jeep. A seagull sat on their hood begging for handouts. We laughed with them at the sight of it. It was a long, hot walk but it felt good to move after our day on the water! We cooled off in Mystic's cockpit with cold beer, bean dip and chips then watched the sun set through the cloudy sky. The Canadian fires are still effecting our air quality keeping a haze hanging over us.

Shoo Fly and Mystic at Escanaba Marina

Mystic & Shoo Fly with room to spare

Mystic in her wide berth at Escanaba
With Our Gold Looper Flag Flying

Lunch time in Escanaba, begging Seagull.

The bathrooms were a short walk to the marina office building. On my way there, I noticed a muskrat meandering along the rocks. Fascinated by it's confidence, I followed until it slipped into the water and crossed to the park side. As I watched him move easily through the water, I was surprised to hear someone playing a saxophone over on the point. The haunting music carried across the water.

Docks at Escanaba

We woke to overcast skies and heavy humidity but the forecasted rain stayed away. We'd booked a two day stay in Escanaba. Dave and I  went on a soggy run to Park Point. The Mooney's joined us for a walk to the point after breakfast. As we passed over the Bath House Road bridge we saw lots of police, both on land and in the water conducting dive training. When we reached the point, a sailboat was coming in the channel. They were in rough conditions and had to fight their way between the entry channel markers. We waved at them and encouraged them forward into the calmer waters.

We headed into town for provisions at the grocery store and farmers market. The Escanaba City Band had a concert in the park at 5:00. It was within walking distance. We were surprised to see how well attended it was. The City Band put on a great concert! They played big band favorites but also popular oldies in mash ups including Motown and Country. We ran into the sailing couple we saw coming in while we were walking to the point. They told us they'd just come from Fayette which is our next stop. They're on the same Green Bay Loop as us, only they are going counter clockwise. After the concert, I made chicken masala for dinner and we sat in Mystic's cockpit and chatted about our busy day. We calculated that we put in 15 total miles in one day of walking around Escanaba! 

Escanaba Amphitheater City Band Concert

Across the dock from us the power boat Freedom raised their gold looper flag. Mystic was wearing the gold as soon as we got into port. The Looper Flag is a beacon of comradery that brings us together. We chatted with them a bit and realized that they know Loopers Kathy & John on Free spirit, and Dean & Jan on Blue Barnacle. The cruising community and the America's Great Loop Cruising Association, (AGLCA) are part of a small close knit world.

Dan and Nena met a sailor named Marilyn at the docks. She and her husband, Glendon, own a Tartan 41. They'd been sailing Green Bay for more than 70 years. Marilyn was full of knowledge and history. She mentioned that there are so many places that are uncharted on Green Bay that local knowledge was often important to safe passages. We definitely agreed with that! 

When we returned the bathroom key we found that the bushes around the office were covered with spider webs. The morning dew had left mist over them and the water droplets had captured the light. It was really cool but also a bit alarming. With all those webs there must have been a whole lot of spiders too!

Dave taking photo of spider webs

Our next stop is Fayette. We are very excited to experience the ghost town tucked into the curve at the top of Green Bay on Big Bay De Noc. From what we hear, it is a hidden gem!

Beth Aboard Mystic at Escanaba

Mystic at Escanaba Marina

Cedar River Michigan

We left the docks in Marinette on July 24th with our friends aboard Shoo Fly following in our wake. We're off on an adventure to explore north Green Bay. The channel was bumpy with waves rolling straight at us. The bay was bumpy too. We wanted to throw out some sail but the wind was so light that we continued under engine power with the Canada wildfire haze hanging over us. Shoo fly followed at a distance that could almost appear as though we were attached. We moved north one wave at a time.

Shoo Fly Passing Menomonee light
Photo by Nena Mooney

Calm Day on Green Bay

Mystic Leading The Way

Video by Nena Mooney

We passed a loon which made me realize I'd forgotten my good camera with the zoom lens; I was beyond disappointed! We arrived at our first stop, Cedar River and made our way to the marina through the narrow channel, noting the skinny water along the north side. After settling our boats in their slips we borrowed the blue beach bikes and rode to and through Wells State Park. At the beach, two older women on e-bikes stopped to chat. They'd ridden 100 miles up from Algoma, looking for Yooperlight, the rock that glows under UV light. We'd never heard of it before. Apparently Yooperlight is as popular as agates. People collect them but also make special pilgrimages to visit the big rocks too large to take home in their pocket. The gals were looking for two massive ones in the park; one along the shoreline, the other at a campsite. 

After our ride, we relaxed aboard Mystic, munching on taco dip & chips and chatting with Dan and Nena about our easy first day out. Dock swallows danced along the water and through the boats. We discovered they were nesting under our pier.

It was a very quiet night. There were a lot of spiders making the docks appear to be held together by their webs. Our boats sat low against a bumper board, below the stationary docks. We had to climb upward to depart. There are two pilings between us and Shoo Fly. The slips at Cedar River are so wide that a third boat would fit between us if the pilings were eliminated.

In the morning, we took a long walk out to the bay. The Robert Louis fishing vessel was blocking the channel along the Cedar River. Good thing we realized this before leaving the dock or we'd have had to turn back. We set out to explore our surroundings until the channel reopened. 

Art Swaer VII

The Robert Louis

Green Bay view at Cedar River

Quiet Morning at Cedar River

We ran into Dwayne, the marina Dock Master and chatted about the area and how he became a part of this quiet town. He gave us local history of the fishing vessels and the Ruleau Brothers Fishing company that has supplied white fish to Greater upper Michigan, Green Bay and the Door County area for 160 years. The Robert Louis is part of their fleet.

We walked around the marina and along Old Mill Lane which runs parallel to the bay and leads to Dead Mans Cove. It is beautiful and quiet, with lots of summer cottages and log homes that are part of Cedarville township. Next, we grabbed the bikes and rode out to Dead Man's Point but couldn't get to the actual point because it is off of a private road.

After returning the bikes we prepared our boats for the next leg of our adventure, Escanaba, about 30 miles north. We planned this cruise with easy days in mind, sail as much as possibilities then enjoy and explore each destination. We left the dock late morning and headed out into the bay under sunny skies, a good way to start our day.