Two days On The City Dock At Houghton Michigan

September 9 - 11, 2016

Our first visit to the Upper Peninsular was in the late 90's. We drove there to snowboard at a newly opened extreme wilderness mountain called Mt. Bohemia, located outside of Houghton, Michigan. Houghton is home of Michigan Tech University, a renowned Engineering School with more young men than women. Mt. Bohemia boasted a special rate for women to ski and snowboard. It was FREE! Our family could spend the day on the mountain 2 for 1, the girls cost nothing. We had a great time, although two of us came away with sprained ankles on that trip; young David and I. Houghton also has a ski mountain called Mt. Ripley. You can see it clearly from the waterway docks in downtown.

Mt. Ripley Houghton, MI

We passed through the Keewanaw waterway when we brought Mystic back from Escanaba, Michigan in 2013. We loved this college town with a free city dock, close to downtown and the Keewanaw Brewing Company with $2 pints of microbrew! We found the price had risen to $2.75 since then, but still a great deal! We were excited to get under the Keewanaw bridge and tie up. I was at the helm and decided it was time for my first ever docking of Mystic. It was a huge step for me to take on this task which I'd been mulling over for the last couple years. Even though it was an easy dockage, with no other boats in my way on the face wall, I was giddy with excitement at my accomplishment. Once all the lines were set and we were standing on the dock, I asked Dave if he could hear the applause! 

Upper Keewanaw Waterway Barn

My view docking Mystic

Going under the Houghton Liftbridge

Houghton has public bathrooms with showers along the waterway path. We walked about a quarter of a mile for our first shower since Red Cliff. They are coin operated, twenty-five cents for 2 minutes. We'd forgot about this, but Dave found five quarters buried in his bag. My hero gave me three of the five so I got a six minute shower, he took only four. Turns out four would have been enough but it sure felt good just soaking under the warm water for that extra two minutes.

View on our way to the shower

Super Shit Spices at the local Surplus Store - Houghton

We've met some really nice people along the way. At Houghton, we met Jukka Jumppanen, a Finnish sailor who told us great stories about trying to buy a cruising boat and all the trials he faced which have led to him not owning a boat at this time. He and his wife RV but have a home in Lake Worth, Florida. They are leaving Houghton this week to head home. We hope to connect with them again.

Jukka with Beth at Houghton dock

Mystic docked in Houghton

Breakwater to Bridge Kayak Festival

Quincy Mine and Hoist view at night in Houghton

Mystic in Houghton, docked at night

Our view of Houghton Liftbridge at night

Abandoned light at Lower Keewanaw waterway

Lower Keewanaw Entry Light

We stayed in Houghton for two days due to heavy rain. The pubic library was close by so we walked there to use the wifi. I walked to the laundry mat and washed clothes while Dave worked on projects. Once the weather cleared we walked over the Houghton Liftbridge to Hancock to explore the old Copper Mine visible from the waterway. It was barren.

Mystic in the rain, view from the Public Library

Quincy Smelting Works - Slag pile

Stockton Island to Ontonagon, MI ~ September 8, 2016

We left Buffalo Bay on Tuesday morning, September 6th and sailed over to Stockton Island for the night in order to put us a few miles closer toward Ontonagon, Michigan. We were completely out of touch except an occasional text that made it's way through. We were able to get messages to our kids, Brielle and David, along with a couple of friends who had texted us to check in. We swam ashore on Tuesday and hiked. The water is much warmer than over on the Minnesota side of the lake. Our first night, we anchored at Quarry Bay with the plan to leave for Ontonagon Wednesday morning. There was a severe head wind that would have made the crossing unbearable, if not impossible. Instead we moved over to Presque Isle Bay to spend the night.

Fog bank rolling in from the West

Anchorage at Presque Isle Bay, Stockton Island

The next 36 hours were rough; kind of like being at a Cross Fit boot camp that lasted 10 hours. There was a lot of pulling, pushing, lifting, climbing, squatting, balancing and gripping going on. It started with a really harrowing night anchored at Presque Isle Bay. We’d attempted to make the run to Ontonagon as planned Wednesday morning but turned back because of the unforgiving easterly head wind we’d have to beat. The anchorage we chose made sense at the time, as protected as it was from the elements. Several other boats joined us. During the night the wind increased and shifted and we were suddenly in an onslaught of wind, rain, rolling seas, bouncing and bobbing and just plain old misery in only 15 feet of water. Dave sleeps through just about anything but I woke him at 1:30 with my anxiety over the horrific sounds coming from on deck. Everything including lines, shackles, tarps, & sails were rattling, flapping, creaking and moaning in the wind. We were swinging on our anchor chain, the wind was howling at a roar, and it felt like we were going to be cast adrift and crash on the sandy shore of the Island. It was too late and too dark and too dangerous to move to a different anchorage. We were in this until it was over! What did I do? I made a cup of Zen tea and played solitaire. I finally fell asleep around 3:00 am. In the morning, Dave was excited to point out that the Mantus Anchor held firm! "That’s the Peace of Mind we invested in last winter!" he boasted. 

Not quite at the 8 foot stage, surfing the waves

Battling the elements

As soon as Dave could rouse me to consciousness he wanted to head east to Ontonagon. We knew this would be a long day of about 8-10 hours. We had the wind on our side this time. Forecast called for the sky to clear by mid day, a SW wind to build to 5-10 knots and 3-5 foot waves. What we got was winds at 15-20 with 30 mph gusts. We saw 8 foot seas, I kid you not, and had rollers lift us right up out of the water then surf us forward at 10 knots which is very fast on Mystic. At best, it was uncomfortable. Dave reminded me of our crossing from Bermuda to Mystic, Connecticut years ago. We got caught in a BIG storm 50 miles off of Montauk Point. There was a lot of praying going on that night! “Today was not nearly as bad as that trip; not even close!” he said! But today was tough and scary at times. Dave got deep bruises on his legs from fighting the tiller; proof of how hard he worked to keep us on course. He wouldn't let me take a picture of them.

Rocking & Rolling

Following Seas

Surfing Lake Superior

Passing the Porcupine Mountains

We were both very happy to get to Ontonagon. We met the Dock Master, Brenton, on Friday morning. We had a lovely chat with this young man and learned that he is leaving for Florida on his motorcycle as soon as the marina closes for the season. We exchanged contact info and hope to run into this fellow adventurer again while on this journey! On to Houghton, Michigan Saturday morning. A perfect day!!! We earned this one!

Entering Ontonagon Channel

Breakwater Entrance Light Ontonagon, MI

Ontonagon Lighthouse built in 1866

Getting Our Feet Wet - September 4 - 6, 2016

Our departure was less than graceful, a bit rushed and chaotic and very emotional! Brie and Dave drove us up to Knife River on Saturday and helped us unload our last items into Mystic. It was overwhelming to see how much stuff we needed to stow SOMEWHERE! I’m not going to lie; there were a lot of tears but also lots of encouragement and support from these kids we raised!

The folks at Knife River have never been the selling point for docking there. Only Dave, the Marina Manager, stopped by to say goodbye and wish us well. A fishing boat with an older couple aboard, the Larsons, came to the fuel dock while we were there. They had just made the trip from Washburn to Knife River. It was a rough crossing for them and they were just sitting there, catching their breath. We chatted and Sharon (the wife) gushed over us and our plans, took our photo and gave us a big hug, wishing us God’s blessings for our journey! They restored our faith in mankind and reminded us that good outweighs bad! I took a video of our departure, filming our last glance of Knife River Marina, the beach and the Island as we headed East. My instincts tell me that we will not return there, even if we return to Lake Superior.

Chatting with Dave at Knife River

Departure Photo by Sharon Larson

The crossing was not too bad with 2-3 foot waves and rolling seas at times. The wind was fluky, gusting at times, calm at times. We made the 52 mile crossing in 8 hours. Dave chose to motor because we had to get to Buffalo Bay by dark and half of our day was over by the time we left. In addition, we needed to run the motor for a bit because we’ve put so little time on it over the last few years. When we arrived, our dear friends Jim & Linda Weckman were waiting to greet us. They motioned us to slip #15 and informed us that we would be docking at Beth & Dave’s slip (another B&D, of course) life is funny!

Sand Island Light

Mystic at Buffalo Bay

Jim and Linda were our dock neighbors at Knife River for several years. We forged a strong bond and friendship with them! It was like seeing family and the hugs we shared were soul lifting! They showed us around the Marina and Casino and introduced us to their dock family. We sat around the campfire under the pine trees and ate fresh grilled salmon and whitefish with a group of new friends. What a wonderful experience on this first night of our journey. There was a lot of talk about boats and weather so we were in good company! Both Dave and I slept better than ever! Not sure if it was sheer exhaustion or contentment!

With Linda & Jim Weckman aboard Pemion

Linda sent Jim over to gather us for breakfast aboard Pemion in the morning. Linda is a wonderful host with endless onboard tips. She gave me two hedge balls for Mystic. I’d never heard of them but Linda tells me that they will ward off bugs and spiders. She gave me tinfoil to wrap around the ball in a cup shape. As the hedge balls age they will soften and turn to mush. They should last and protect us for six months! If only they would keep flies and storms away!

Aboard Pemion with Linda Weckman

Hedgeball

We had a wonderful day at Red Cliff. Arrived at the end of Red Cliff Days, a Native American celebration. We missed most of the fun but we were able to get a taste of it Monday morning during the Tribal closing ceremony complete with singing and drum rhythm. It was so moving and emotional. Linda and I took a walk to Roy's Point Marina then Dave and I ran the same course later in the day. My high school friend Jerri, along with husband Stefan had planned to meet us at Buffalo Bay. Jim and Linda joined us for a pot luck dinner of grilled chicken, fresh green beans, potato salad and bean dip with chips. It was a heartwarming evening!

Buffalo Bay Legendary Waters Marina

Red Cliff Days Closing Ceremony

Miskwa Bekong

With Linda Weckman & Jerri Mitchell

We planned to head for Ontonagon first thing in the morning. T-storms passed over us during the night but were followed by a band of angry red on the radar in the morning. We decided to stay put until the storms are gone. Hoping to leave by mid day. If nothing else, we can anchor in the Apostles and get a good start tomorrow.

Mystic at Buffalo Bay

Foggy Morning

How Do We Leave Our Life Behind

We’ve been asked over and over, in one form or another, this question; “How do you just pick up and leave your life behind?” The truth is, it takes a lot of planning. In our case, we’ve been thinking about this and planning for a very long time. It has finally worked out for us, mainly due to timing. There were a lot of things that needed to be decided before we could check out. We spent years discussing what we should do with our house. We knew we didn't want to sell it but we were unsure about renting it, even though it would generate income for us. In the end, our son, David agreed to stay in our home and take care of things while we are away. Without his help, things would be very different. Having David stay allows us to leave our house status quo while giving us a place to return to at any time.

Our home in Stillwater, MN

In addition to our home, we had to figure out what to do with our cars. Between the two of us, we had three vehicles. We sold one car through a local "for sale" Facebook page (in one day, can you believe that), and will put one in the garage while we are away. Stored vehicles are not covered by our homeowner's insurance so we had to get storage insurance. This is very inexpensive, costing us only about $150.00 for the year. We’ll keep Dave’s truck insured as backup for David and as a source of transportation when we visit at Christmas. We will need the truck up to the very last minute for our many trips up to Knife River carting our massively downsized pile of belongings for the journey.

One of the biggest issues we had to figure out was our finances. We had to have a way to take care of business. All of our travel expenses, food, fuel, entertainment, will be paid by cash or credit card. We've set up an online credit card account so we can pay with just a few clicks. We prepaid our house taxes for the fall and will pay for the spring when we are home for the holidays. We use online banking making money transfers super easy. Our cell phone bill and car insurance bill are on auto pay. We have no worries about our home. Our son will take care of the house bills as they arrive. He has a dog and we have two cats who all get along. He will keep them safe and happy.

One major expense of cruising is Health Insurance. I was lucky to have the option of carrying my health insurance into retirement, for the same cost I paid while employed, (not very much)! I have a pension which is deposited automatically and the health insurance is taken out of the same account automatically. It's a seamless process so I don't even think about it. Timing...it's BIG!!! I would not have had this opportunity had I left my job before retirement age.

As for cruising expenses, the cost to cruise is not as high as you’d think, especially when compared to everyday life. Our expenses will change. We’ll spend money staying at marinas occasionally but most nights will be spent at anchor. There are many free public docks along the way as well. Our fuel cost will not be huge. We have a reliable nanni diesel engine which burns about 1/2 gallon of fuel per hour. At our normal motoring speed of 7 1/2 miles per hour that translates into 15 miles per gallon. When you take into account our 50 gallon fuel tank, that gives us about 700 miles of motoring capacity per tank. Since we are on a sailboat and plan to sail whenever possible, the tank is going to go a heck of a lot further.

We are confident that we have the financial aspect down but we know that the emotional part of leaving life behind for an extended time will be a challenge. There is no way for us to prepare for those moments when we miss our kids or an event back home or with our extended families. We purchased a portable wifi to give us extra data and more access to communication options. We are already planning for visitors which, once again, requires good timing. We’ll figure it all out as we go and like most things in life, we’ll get better at this the longer we live it. We’ve prepared most everything with the mindset of having options. The greatest part of an adventure is the journey and where there is a will, there is a way. We are carrying a whole lot of will aboard Mystic...TIMES TWO!

Our family, with David & Brielle

The hardest part of all this planning and organizing and just plain WORK is leaving! There is always something to do, something to add, something to improve! Everybody says the same thing, "there's not enough time!" So, off we'll go, a little disheveled, later than we'd hoped, but eager for the journey! At least our teak looks fabulous, we have solar panels and a backup composting toilet!

Composting head

Newly varnished bowsprite

Water beads up on our teak toe rail

Solar panels off of stern

The Cardinal Lesson

I was in the kitchen when I heard a racket outside on our deck. I witnessed what appeared to be a pair of cardinals attacking a third female. I watched as the pair screeched at the obviously traumatized bird. It took me a while to understand that the pair where the parents and the injured bird was their fledgling who had crash landed on my deck. Mom and Pop tried to get little Miss to attempt another flight but finally left the poor young offspring on her own and flew away. She sat on my deck looking pathetic and distorted, almost folded in half backwards. I was entranced with her. I thought she might die right before my eyes but watched as she slowly unfolded into a more natural position; her breathing mellowed and she began batting her eyes as she looked around her and took in her situation. I made my way around the house and walked up the back steps to see if I could get close to her. She did not move until I sat on our park bench. The flutter of her wings as she flew a few feet surprised me. She landed right next to me on the bench, only inches away. I could have touched her, she was that close. We sat there, the two of us, just checking each other out for about five minutes. I still wasn't sure that she was uninjured but I could tell at such a close range that she was brand new at this flying thing and had scared the bejesus out of herself. There was no way she was going to rush the next test run! Sitting with me, on that bench, taking a moment to gather herself was far less frightening than her next flight. But after those few moments, she flew into our lilac bush and made a graceful landing.

Baby cardinal through my sliding glass door

Life brought me a lesson in this little baby cardinal. Sometimes you just have to stop and sit for a while, take in the moment and quietly reflect on life. Just breath! But never give up! Before long, you'll be ready to spread your wings and fly off into better times. Learn from your mistakes; don't let them paralyze you with fear. Like that little cardinal on it's first flight, you will learn to perfect the skills you need to navigate life!

DIY Sunscreen

Dave and I went swimming at Knife River this weekend. The water was refreshing; not warm but not so cold that we couldn’t soak for a while. Lake Superior is frigid all summer long. The mild water temps only happen about one week in August. We were thrilled to catch the perfect day for a dip. After our swim, we spread our towels along the shore and laid down to dry off. The beach was full of families with children and pets splashing along the shoreline. There was a boat pulled up to the beach and kayakers winding their way back and forth in the cove. A young girl paddled past us and yelled out, “Skin Cancer!” I stifled my urge to yell back at her, "NO, SUNSCREEN...and Vitamin D!"

It's time to begin packing supplies for the trip. On the top of the list of health supplies is sunscreen! Since we will be exposed to the elements each day, all day, we anticipate using a lot of it. How much should we bring? We'd planned to wait and purchase a bunch of sunscreen on sale at the end of the season. Then we heard that some of the sunscreens available on the market are not effective. In addition, many contain chemicals that are bad for us including oxybenzone. Experts believe it is linked to hormone disruption and, ironically, cell damage that may lead to skin cancer.

After researching manufactured sunscreens, we decided to try making our own. We found numerous recipes online. The majority of them have the same basic ingredients; Coconut Oil, Shea Butter, Zinc and Beeswax. Most of these ingredients have a level of SPF on their own and become higher SPF when combined. Beeswax has antioxidants and moisturizing properties. We like the idea of using a product that contains natural ingredients and we love to DIY!!!

Sunscreen Ingredients

I selected a recipe from http://www.mommypotamus.com. I found all of the ingredients on amazon.com spending about $40, the cost of 4 cans of Coppertone Sport at a retail shop. Sunscreen is not our only protection from the elements. We have an array of hats, umbrellas, sun glasses and a sun awning that lays across our boom and creates a lovely shaded spot for afternoon tea (or cocktails).

Mystic at anchor, under the sun awning

Hat, glasses and long sleeves

Dave in his favorite straw hat

UPDATE:  

I finally found time to make a double batch of sunscreen. I ended up using this recipe: http://blog.lexienaturals.com/2012/07/homemade-natural-sunscreen.html. It was very easy although very messy. Pay extra attention to Lexi's advice on cleaning up as you go. My first batch matched the recipe exactly. I decided to change things up with the second batch after reading that I could add beeswax to thicken the cream for our time in warmer climates. In addition, I added lavender essential oil to batch two and ended up with a lovely lightly scented cream. This recipe should keep for up to a year!

Both Dave and I tried it right away and liked the feeling of it on our skin. It is a little more oily than the kind you get in the store but it does absorb into your skin. Success!!!

The Great Loop

We are right on the edge of beginning our cruising journey aboard our Alberg 35, Mystic. Originally, we planned to head out the Great Lakes to the Hudson River, through NYC then North to spend the summer in CT with family. Instead, we’ve decided to take The Great Loop route to get to the ocean. Our change of plans was influenced by several delays that have led to a late summer departure. Taking the shorter route is smart.

What is the Great Loop? Many cruisers make this popular circumnavigation of the Eastern half of the United States. It is a picturesque route and a great way to see our country by water! The Great Loop Cruisers' Association web page has a wealth of information with details on segments of the route and popular places to visit. There is a myriad of information on services available, water depths, bridge clearances and important lock timing.

 http://www.greatloop.org/

Our journey will begin on Lake Superior, with our departure from Knife River Marina. We will head across the Lake, through the Apostle Islands and make our way to the Sault Ste. Marie Locks. We made this same journey across Lake Superior, (only west instead of east), four years ago when we delivered Mystic to her home port in Knife River.

Knife Island, Knife River, MN ~ 2013

Knife River Marina View

Passing through the Soo Locks in Sault Ste. Marie ~ 2013

Once we are through the Soo Locks our course will turn west toward Mackinaw Island and Lake Michigan where we will join The Great Loop. We’ll traverse Lake Michigan south to Chicago. Before we reach Chicago we will have to step the mast for the rest of the journey to Mobile, Alabama. Dropping our mast is necessary due to the length of it (45 feet off the water) and the number of low fixed bridges we’ll pass under. On this part of our trip, some 1,200 miles, we will be motoring Mystic. Dave built a cradle to carry our mast on deck during this long trek. This will keep it secure and somewhat out of the way.

Mystic with the mast on the cradle

Aft Mast Cradle

Forward Mast Cradle

The Inland Waterway consists of four sections. First is the Illinois Waterway from Chicago to the Mississippi River, just North of St. Louis, MO. Next is the Mississippi River to the confluence of the Ohio River where we’ll make a short trip up the Ohio to the Tennessee River. At this point we turn South on the Tennessee River for several hundred miles until we meet up with the Tombigbee, a man-made waterway that connects the Tennessee River and Mobile, Alabama.

The Inland Waterway passes through some of the most picturesque lakes said to be equal to the beauty of the Apostle Islands. Land between the Lakes, The Kentucky Lake and Pickwick Lake are just a few spots we are excited to see. We’ll have many options for going ashore and exploring the towns we travel through. We are bringing kayaks and bikes aboard Mystic and look forward to putting them to good use.

Pickwick Lake Waterfall

Land Between the Lakes Recreational Area, Kentucky

Once we get into the Gulf of Mexico we plan to circumnavigate Florida and spend some time in Key West and the Cocoa Beach area. Sometime next year we will head for the Bahamas. We are exploring the idea of taking Mystic to Cuba and Puerto Rico but have not completed those plans. The beauty of what we are doing is our flexibility to make decisions as we go.

Only 90 Miles to CUBA!!!