Monday, August 10, 2026

Cruising Upper Green Bay

Over the last five years, we have spent our summers on the Bay of Green Bay aboard our Alberg 35, Mystic. We've gone on day sails and spent overnights at popular anchorages; but also, we've taken longer excursions. Our 2026 cruising adventure began with a sail to Chambers Island where we anchored for the night.

We left Menominee Marina around 2:00, following several sailboats out. The wind, which had been light, picked up a bit during the day. We unfurled the jib and waited to see how Mystic responded. We were making way at over 6 mph so we settled in and sailed without the main. All the boats around us were under full sail and heeling heavily. Chambers Island was a direct course on a broad reach under strong southern winds. We sailed to Chambers in two hours and anchored in 10 feet of water.

Island Pearl under full sail

A Catalina named Wind Load came into the bay and anchored beside us some 200 feet away. After dark, a third sailboat named Sojourn joined us, anchoring off our starboard side. They had their spreader lights on as they prepared their dinghy to go ashore. This made for a ghostly image in the dark. The sky was filled with stars. The big dipper was visible right out our main hatch. 

Wind Load at anchor on Chambers Island Bay

Pelican sunset over Chambers Island

Sojourn at anchor Chambers Island

We were up at 5:30 watching the sun rise as we listened to the weather forecast. The south winds didn't lay down overnight as predicted; instead they blew strong at 5-10 mph with gusts to 20 while we were safely tucked in behind the lee of Chambers Island, out of harms way. 

Sunrise over Chambers Island

We pulled anchor at 8:30 and headed due north toward the western shore of Green Bay, just south of Cedar River. We were chased across the bay by a south wind and rollers that grew to six feet with wind gusting to 25 mph. The first hour was a sleigh ride with only about half the jib out and the engine running at idle speed. We surfed the waves doing over 7 mph. When we got a couple of miles off the shoreline, things settled down. The wind lessened and we couldn't keep the jib filled. We motored into Cedar River. The marina is a Michigan Harbor of Refuge along Highway 35, between Menominee and Escanaba. A gas station and restaurant are within walking distance and Wells State Park is a mile and a half away. It is quaint and serene, a nice respite from the bay. The marina offers loaner bikes and kayaks to visitors, free of charge.

After settling Mystic, we took a walk along the river and out to the bay, past the fishing boats and through a beautiful wildflower marsh. Butterfly weed, and Queen Anne's lace was growing in abundance amongst the reeds which were dotted with tiny blue flowers called Lobelia Kalmii. There were bees everywhere!

Very happy bees in Cedar River

Butterfly weed

Lobelia Kalmii

Wildflowers along Green Bay

Dave on the Cedar River breakwater

Beth on the marsh trail

Cedar River breakwater

Cedar River view of Green Bay

The Robert Louis fishing vessel

We were treated with a gorgeous sunset of changing colors reflecting on the water behind us. The forecast called for storms overnight but it never even rained. We woke to overcast skies and very little wind. We went for a run along Old Mill Lane, past huge homes and tiny cabins nestled in the woods. The air was wet, and cool temps made for a comfortable run. After a quick shower, we were heading out of Cedar River and toward our next stop, Escanaba, by 11:00. 

Sunset at Cedar River

Leaving Cedar River

As we left Cedar River, Dave set our course northward and we settled in. It was an easy four hour trip on a very calm bay, motoring under autopilot. We entered the Escanaba harbor and found the once thriving marina only about half full. Two docks were twisted and tipped on their side, abandoned rather than repaired. We found our slip on the center dock and slid gently in. It was very quiet. We took a walk into town to check out the farmers market. Most of Ludington Street, where all the cute shops and watering holes are, was closed for construction.

When we got back to the marina, we watched the Escanaba Wednesday night sailboat races. The boats made their way from the harbor entrance to the first red channel marker and back in a heavy south wind. They had a heck of a time turning and making it into the harbor after crossing the finish line.


A mink patrols the rocks along the shoreline. He hunts and hides in the crevices but doesn't seem to be afraid of humans. We watched as he frolicked beside us, staying just one step ahead. Last time we were in Escanaba we saw him cross the channel to Aronson Island off of Ludington Park.

In the morning, Mystic was covered in dew and glistening under the sunrise. Before preparing for our departure, we went on a long walk over the stone arched bridge and onto Aronson Island. It was a refreshing way to start our day before heading out for an anchorage at South River in Big Bay de Noc. 

Mystic in the morning dew

Calm in Escanaba Marina

Reflections of the bay

Bridge to Aronson Island

As we left Escanaba Marina and entered Little Bay Noc, we dodged fishing boats and aimed our course to pass the first red marker to our port side. We'd need to clear three reds, marking shoals, before we could turn up Big Bay De Noc toward Fayette and finally the South River anchorage.

A light south head wind wouldn't allow us to sail but we hoped to do so when we turned north up the channel toward Fayette. To our surprise, the wind dropped to almost nothing, so we continued motoring. We arrived at the anchorage around 4:00. We dropped anchor in about twelve feet of water and settled in. A pair of eagles called to us from the top of a tree along the shoreline. The secluded bay was just as beautiful and peaceful as we were told. Only one other boat was in the bay, a fishing boat, anchored further up the bay. We inflated our dinghy and took a ride to explore the shoreline where we found crystal clear water that shallowed quickly. An egret landed in the reeds and peeked out at us as we slowly motored by.

Eagles at South River Anchorage



Mystic anchored at South River

View of South River from our dinghy

After dinner we watched the sun set in the middle of the open channel as an egret floated overhead. The sun turned bright red over the horizon. The south wind had settled as the dark sky lit up with stars. The moon seemed closer than ever over the cove. The bay faces west, but we were subjected to motion that rocked us up and down and left to right all night long. The waves, coming from the south up Big Bay de Noc, were making their way into our little paradise.

South River sunset

Big Bay de Noc


South River anchorage

Our next stop was Fayette where we'd reserved two nights at the docks. The trip would take an hour but would be straight into head winds. With a forecast calling for rain and t-storms by the end of the day, we wanted to get there early. We had a rough ride under overcast skies with four foot rollers hitting us head on the entire trip but we were settled at the dock before noon.

Several large boats came in after our arrival. We helped them get into their slip, as the wind speed grew. Later in the day, a sailboat came in but the wind kept him away from the dock. Dave managed to grab a bow line and wrapped it tightly around a post. The captain used it as a spring line to move his stern in while his engine was in reverse. Our friend John, aboard Free Spirit from Menominee Marina was in the slip next to us. He was traveling with friends, Margaret and Russ, on their own sailboat.

Mystic and Free Spirit at Snail Shell Harbor

Many deer visited us at Fayette

Fayette Ghost Town off of the docks

Snail Shell Harbor

The cliffs of Fayette

Sailboat leaving Snail Shell Harbor

Fayette is a ghost town with docks, a campground, and several hiking trails. There is one restaurant, Sherry's Port Bar about a mile walk away from the docks. It is worth the walk. We enjoyed whitefish washed down with a local microbrew from Latulip Brewery. On our way back we stumbled upon the St. Peter's Fisherman's Cemetery where we found the graves of 1800s Fayette inhabitants.

Legacy by Latulip Brewery

Fayette is a magical place that boaters and campers return to time and again. We discover new things each visit. In addition to wandering through the ghost town, we hiked the trails. The cliff trail, above Snail Shell Harbor, offers gorgeous views of the harbor. It smells of cedar and pine, is well worn and rutted with tree roots wanting to trip us up. Another trail took us through a forest and meadows that brought us to the remains of St Peter's Church that once was a place of worship for Fayette residents.  We spent an afternoon swimming at Fayette Park Beach, a beautiful, shallow cove in Sand Bay. A wedding was held at the furnace building in the Ghost Town on Saturday. We watched from our cockpit and cheered with the guests after the first kiss. In the evening, we went to slag beach on the southwest side of the ghost town. The beach is made up of slag from the smelting industry scattered amongst well worn lake rocks that were perfect for cairn building. 

Hiking the Cliff Trail


Dave along the bottom of the cliffs

Sand Bay Fayette, MI

Entry stairs are all that remain of the church

St. Peter Church Fayette, MI

Slag Beach, Fayette, MI

In the morning, we followed four cabin cruisers into Big Bay de Noc, and headed south. A 10-12 mph head wind from the south presented us with waves of 2-4 feet. They were hitting our bow at 2 to 3 second intervals. It was cold and bumpy but our auto pilot handled conditions just fine. We planned to stay the night at Rock Island. Unfortunately, a massive 50+ foot cabin cruiser was on the inside wall. The dock was filled with campers waiting for the ferry to retrieve them. The wind was howling through the shallow channel between Rock and Washington Islands. We decided to turn and head for the shelter of Schoolhouse Bay, five miles away. We arrived at the schoolhouse bay anchorage at 11:30. The beach was covered with families playing along the shore. There was little to zero cell service but we listened to the weather forecast all afternoon and into the evening to make sure conditions weren't changing on us. After much consideration, we decided to stay the night but with one eye open. Dave put out an extra 20 feet of rode, just in case but there was no sign of dragging anchor. We could hear people on the beach commenting about the cool old sailboat anchored off shore. Joyful squeals from the beach carried over the water until after the sun set. 

Leaving Snail Shell Harbor Fayette, MI

Heading to Schoolhouse Bay

We were up at 5:00 am making coffee and preparing the boat for travel. The wind had shifted to the north so Mystic had swung and we were facing out of the bay. As we pulled our anchor and began to motor, the sun peeked up over the trees.

Sunrise over Schoolhouse Bay

Washington Island Peninsula

We were hoping to sail the 40 miles back to our slip but light winds inhibited our efforts so we settled in for a long day of motoring. As we rounded the point then turned south, I noticed Dave looking up at our jib. I followed his gaze and watched in awe as a blue heron came at our forestay, wrapped himself around the stay and attempted to land on our deck. He touched down, took one look at us then popped back up again aiming toward land. He looked tired.

AI rendition of the heron encounter 

There was very little wind but we tried to sail each time we felt a sudden surge of wind. As soon as we set our sails, the wind died. Our auto pilot and engine handled the rollers that nudged us toward Menominee with ease. We arrived back at our slip by early afternoon.

We've enjoyed our adventures on the Bay of Green Bay. Each season we try to visit new places. There is more to explore. I don't think we will tire of this anytime soon.

Daily Mileage

Day 1: Menominee to Chambers Island 14.4 miles
Day 2: Chambers Island to Cedar River 15.5 miles
Day 3: Cedar River to Escanaba 30.5 miles
Day 4: Escanaba to South River 31.5 miles
Day 5-6: South River to Fayette 4.5 Miles
Day 7: Fayette to Schoolhouse Bay 29 Miles
Day 8: Schoolhouse Bay to Menominee 41.5 miles

Total Cruise Mileage:166.9

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