We departed from Ludington, hoping to make it to Frankfort. The forecast called for east winds at 5-10 mph with 3 foot waves. By the time we were passing the half way point at Manistee the wind was coming from dead north at 15-25 mph, and we were hitting 5 foot rollers head on, having a miserable time. Small craft warnings added to the stress. It was hard to make way and it was very uncomfortable. We decided to get off the lake.
Dave suggested we inquire about securing a slip in Manistee. I was not eager to go up the river because I knew that the current was very strong. On this day, the lake weather was treacherous enough that we were both eager to get off, no matter what it took. Dave called the Manistee Marina and was lucky to get a spot. We'd past the entry channel, so we turned back, placing us on a downwind run with rollers surfing under our hull, making steering difficult. The cargo ship that we saw in Ludington, the Manitowoc, was anchored just off shore, north of the breakwater. We slipped behind it's massive 200 foot hull and worked our way into the breakwater finding calmer waters. We were very happy to be off that lake!
The last time we'd been in Manistee was on our Great Loop adventure in 2016. We'd put our first ding in Mystic's hull pulling into our slip. We didn't know about the strong current at that time and got shoved into the end of the dock. This time, we were ready for it.
We were directed to a face dock along the wall, just west of the Manistee bascule bridge. Face walls are easy to come and go from and current didn't play into our docking. We stayed one night which was enough to allow the lake conditions to settle down. Once we were tied off we realized that our mast was in the branches of a large maple tree so we pulled ourselves back to be free, but it dropped leaves and sticks on us our entire stay. We'd find them for weeks, sneaking out from under our sail cover and cockpit coaming. In spite of the debris, we could see that we'd settled into a nice spot along the Riverwalk. Many locals passed by and commented on what a beautiful boat Mystic is.
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Our mast in the maple tree |
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Mystic along the Riverwalk wall |
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Settling in at Manistee |
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View of Mystic from the Bascule Bridge |
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Stairway view to the Riverwalk |
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Mystic under the maple tree |
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Our slip on Manistee River
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The North Channel Brewery was a short walk from our dock. It didn't exist in 2016. To celebrate finding a safe spot to land, we stopped in for a cold beer and chatted with the friendly brew tender who told us all about the town and the changes since our last visit. In 2016 we'd spent an evening at the Filmore which is no longer in business. After our beer, we walked through town, then along the entire Riverwalk out to the lake.
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North Channel Brewing Co, Manistee, MI |
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North Channel Brewery taps |
In the middle of the night, Dave was awakened by the sound of the Manitowoc moving up river. It loomed over us and slipped through the bascule bridge, slowly making it's way into Manistee Lake. Early the next morning, the Manitowoc came back down the river, using it's thrusters in spurts to maneuver the curves in the river. Each thrust made our boat shimmy along the face dock. Men on deck watched from every direction to make sure they didn't hit anything, including us. It was amazing to watch. Somewhere in the back of my mind I felt like we should be anxious at how close they were to us but we were too busy watching it make it's way through the tight water, fascinated by the Captain's control over the massive vessel.
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Manitowoc looming over us |
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Manitowoc passing Mystic |
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The Manitowoc going through Bascule Bridge
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Manitowoc leaving Manistee
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The Manitowoc leaving Manistee in the morning |
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Slipping through the Bascule Bridge |
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All hands on deck |
Manistee is a lovely town. It seems busier and more vibrant than on our first visit nine years ago. It served as a harbor of refuge for us this time, creating a new memory to soften the first one. We were very happy that we were able to tuck in for the night.
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