The Ahnapee Bike Trail

Having a vehicle at the Marina allows us to explore and bring our kayaks and bikes along. In July, we brought our folding bikes with us and drove over to Algoma, Wisconsin, on the east side of Door County, to ride the Ahnapee bike trail. The north end of the trail runs from Algoma to Sturgeon Bay. We rode 7 miles to the Forestville Dam then turned back. It took a lot longer than we expected as the folding bikes allow us speeds up to about 6 miles an hour tops.  That was only if we kept up constant peddling. If we coasted, forward motion slowed to a crawl. We were exhausted at the end.

After the ride, we loaded our bikes up and drove into Algoma to visit the original Ahnapee Brewery,  "The Garage". It's located in an old two stall car repair shop just a few doors down from the original 1800's microbrewery. We'd already been to the second Ahnapee tasting room just off of highway 41 in Suamico. It is a bit upscale compared to The Garage. The Garage is across from the marina and has gorgeous views of Lake Michigan, along with that alternative vibe that microbreweries are known for. Both are great places to have a cold beer. Ahnapee makes very good beer!

In August, we brought our road bikes to finish the trail from Sturgeon Bay to the Forestville Dam, a 20.8 mile round trip ride. It took us 2 hours and 4 minutes with several stops for water and to take in the views. As we rode, a chipmunk and a big young buck crossed the trail in front of us. A hawk soared over us, floating from tree to tree like it was leading our way. We dodged a gardener snake and a toad, sunning on the trail. In awe, we caught a cougar sneaking delicately from one side of the trail to the other. He tip toed across, pausing for just a moment to look at us, as if to say, " What the heck is that?" From our point of view he looked like a panther, very dark in the low light, with a distinctive long curling tail and huge paws. He was about the size of a medium dog. As he crossed, we noticed a hiker just ahead. She was oblivious to the event behind her but it would have been astonishing for both of them had their paths intertwined. 

We passed meadows of ragweed and golden rod, beautiful reminders that fall is in the air. There were fields of corn, tall and straight as an arrow, waiting for harvest. Tons of apple trees lined the trail; heavily laden with red and golden yellow fruit. We stopped to try the yellow which were deliciously sweet but riddled with bugs. Wildlife, possibly deer or raccoons, had shaken the trees to get the fruit down. The trail was littered with rotting debris that filled the air with the sweet smell of apple pie. 

At the dam, a couple, who looked to be around 90 years old, were trying to unload kayaks off their truck. Dave offered help but they were having none of that! The husband said, "You're not going to be here tomorrow to help me reload them, so, no I don't need help. I need to figure out how I'm gonna do it on my own".

The Ahnapee trail is hard packed gravel and easy to ride with our road bikes. There is little to no elevation change. Some parts of the trail have grass growing which required slowing down and extra attention to the ground on our road bikes. The views were gorgeous. It made for a lovely day with unexpected treats along the way.  We look forward to biking the south end of the trail from Algoma to Luxemburg then down to Keewaunee on our next ride. It's another 40 miles round trip. 

From the Door County Pulse

State of Wisconsin Trail Maps

Frankfort Michigan 2025

We woke along the wall in Manistee, Michigan, refreshed and ready for the next leg of our adventure. Breakfast was fresh salmon from Bob and Sue. After eating and tidying things up, we threw our lines and set off for Frankfort. The forecast called for rain with wind out of the east, so we expected to sail and hoped to have a easy ride. We raised our sails as soon as we cleared the breakwater but enjoyed only about 20 minutes before slowing to a crawl, our sails hung limp as the wind died. A wall of clouds formed from the west. Disappointed, we dropped our canvas and began motoring on a very calm lake, adding layers to combat the cooling temps. We put our rain awning up and huddled underneath as rain and drizzle passed over us. Swells built behind us, gently rolling under our hull. By the time we arrived in Frankfort, following seas nudged us into the breakwater channel right at 3:00 as planned. 

Sailing in gloomy weather

Bundled under the tarp staying dry

In 2016, we'd stopped in Frankfort to shelter during a big storm. We were excited to return under different circumstances. As we approached the marina, two staff members met us at slip 66 and grabbed our lines. The Dock Master, Mark was at Frankfort back when we first visited. We were delighted to see his familiar face. His eyes lit up as soon as we reminded him about the huge storm we weathered out in the marina bath house. We reminisced about how bad that storm was and how kind locals offered us assistance.

Mark and Dave in 2016

Frankfort Marina bath house

We met other marina staff including Kim and Kelly, Mark's wife. We hit if off right away. Kim gave us fresh organic cucumbers and Kelly gave us fresh salmon from local fisherman. They updated us on where to wine and dine in Frankfort. Some new places had popped up. We decided to go to a place we'd enjoyed in 2016, StormCloud Brewing Company. We'd spent a bit of time there during the storm, waiting out a storm at a place called StormCloud.

StormCloud growler lamp

We planned to stay two nights but decided to stay three. Frankfort has a lot to offer and we wanted to explore. We also wanted to stay until we had the best weather to head to our next port, Charlevoix. In the morning we took a long walk on a paved bike path that led to the tiny town on the other side of Lake Betsie called Elberta. We could see Mystic in her slip from Waterfront Park. 

Mystic nestled between the big boats

The very first Great Lakes Life Saving Station is in Elberta. It was built in 1887 and was one of only two life saving stations on Lake Michigan at that time. Later this summer, we would visit the Life Saving Station in Keewaunee which was built in 1893. These Life Saving Stations led to the forming of the US Coast Guard. Today, the Life Saving Station at Elberta is an event center. Many weddings are held in this beautiful venue. After our walk, we picked up groceries at Family Fare finding that groceries are very expensive in Frankfort!

Welcome to Elberta

Life Saving Station, Elberta, Michigan

The former Frankfort Iron Works building is in the Waterfront Park. It opened in 1870 and closed in 1883. It was used for ferry car loading and shops before being abandoned and falling into dramatic ruins. Soon, it will disappear; a piece of history captured in photographs.

Frankfort Iron Works

A little piece of history in Elberta

An Island Packet catamaran, Inspiration, pulled into a slip nearby us. We noticed their white Looper flag right away and stopped to say hello. Later, Bruce and Amy invited us over for sangria. We talked Looping and sail boat racing. Our evening ended early so they could prepare to leave for Ludington in the morning. We weren't ready to settle for the night.  The Cool Spot, an ice cream shop, was a short walk into town. We both chose sea turtle ice cream; our new favorite flavor!

The Cool Spot

In the morning, we got up and made breakfast then took a walk over the breakwater to the lighthouse. On our way back, we meandered through the downtown neighborhoods. Beautiful homes in pristine condition lined the streets. Mature maple trees created a canopy along the sidewalk. Many homes had large murals, some painted on driftwood, hanging on their porches. Frankfort is a lovely town.

Walking the lighthouse pier

Frankfort entry channel

Frankfort Lighthouse

Later, we walked north on the beach along the base of the sand dunes. Butterflies were everywhere and seagulls were taking sips from the lake. The sun was shining in a bright blue sky; the water sparkled crystal clear as families and fishermen enjoyed the day along the stunning coastline. Stormcloud was on our way home so we stopped for a beer and met a couple from Milwaukee. They were headed for Ludington to take the Badger Ferry across the lake.

Walking along the sand dunes 

Looking back toward the lighthouse 

Enjoying a beautiful day on Lake Michigan 

 

Sand dunes to the south of Ludington 

Crystal clear water

The slips at Frankfort are quite long. The land side is lined with large rocks. Most boats are tied to the piers at least 30 feet from shore due to shallow water and the rocky shoreline. We had to fill our water tank one gallon at a time, because our hose wouldn't reach. 

Mystic tucked in at Frankfort

Frankfort docks

We'd planned to go to Charlevoix but, once again, weather did not cooperate. The forecast has been inconsistent this entire trip so we decided to make our way back to Sturgeon Bay. Cutting our adventure short was disappointing but we'd already spent 10 days waiting for the right wind. 

Frankfort Marina was sponsoring a fishing tournament on the weekend. Many boats came into the docks and mooring field to prepare for the event. Dave watched as boats started lining up at 5:00 am. He yelled to me, " I just saw a shooting star! Once they headed out, we slipped in right behind them. The lake was dotted with boats of all sizes seeking the best spot for a winning catch.

It was 60 miles across from Frankfort to Sturgeon bay; we had a long day ahead of us. Winds were expected to be light and from the north, with 1-2 ft waves. We found them to be light and from the north west, a bit on the nose, so we motor sailed. Once again we took one hour watches which made the time go by faster. We averaged 7-8 mph on the crossing. 

View Leaving Frankfort

Crossing Lake Michigan 

When we slipped into the Sturgeon Bay canal we figured we might as well keep going. We maneuvered the three bridges then navigated out into Green Bay, expecting to sail the last 15 miles. The bay was dead calm, the sun was shining and the air was still. It felt like it took forever to motor those last miles to Menominee. We passed our slip to make a big u-turn so we'd be facing out just as our dock neighbors realized it was us. They grabbed our lines and welcomed us home. Our trip was not what we hoped for but it was fabulous all the same. We'll be heading out for more adventures next year!

Manistee Michigan 2025

We departed from Ludington, hoping to make it to Frankfort. The forecast called for east winds at 5-10 mph with 3 foot waves. By the time we were passing the half way point at Manistee the wind was coming from dead north at 15-25 mph, and we were hitting 5 foot rollers head on, having a miserable time. Small craft warnings added to the stress. It was hard to make way and it was very uncomfortable. We decided to get off the lake.

Dave suggested we inquire about securing a slip in Manistee. I was not eager to go up the river because I knew that the current was very strong. On this day, the lake weather was treacherous enough that we were both eager to get off, no matter what it took. Dave called the Manistee Marina and was lucky to get a spot. We'd past the entry channel, so we turned back, placing us on a downwind run with rollers surfing under our hull, making steering difficult. The cargo ship that we saw in Ludington, the Manitowoc, was anchored just off shore, north of the breakwater. We slipped behind it's massive 200 foot hull and worked our way into the breakwater finding calmer waters. We were very happy to be off that lake!

The last time we'd been in Manistee was on our Great Loop adventure in 2016. We'd put our first ding in Mystic's hull pulling into our slip. We didn't know about the strong current at that time and got shoved into the end of the dock. This time, we were ready for it.  

We were directed to a face dock along the wall, just west of the Manistee bascule bridge. Face walls are easy to come and go from and current didn't play into our docking. We stayed one night which was enough to allow the lake conditions to settle down. Once we were tied off we realized that our mast was in the branches of a large maple tree so we pulled ourselves back to be free, but it dropped leaves and sticks on us our entire stay. We'd find them for weeks, sneaking out from under our sail cover and cockpit coaming. In spite of the debris, we could see that we'd settled into a nice spot along the Riverwalk. Many locals passed by and commented on what a beautiful boat Mystic is. 

Our mast in the maple tree

Mystic along the Riverwalk wall

Settling in at Manistee

View of Mystic from the Bascule Bridge

Stairway view to the Riverwalk

Mystic under the maple tree

Our slip on Manistee River

The North Channel Brewery was a short walk from our dock. It didn't exist in 2016. To celebrate finding a safe spot to land, we stopped in for a cold beer and chatted with the friendly brew tender who told us all about the town and the changes since our last visit. In 2016 we'd spent an evening at the Filmore which is no longer in business. After our beer, we walked through town, then along the entire Riverwalk out to the lake. 

North Channel Brewing Co, Manistee, MI

North Channel Brewery taps

In the middle of the night, Dave was awakened by the sound of the Manitowoc moving up river. It loomed over us and slipped through the bascule bridge, slowly making it's way into Manistee Lake. Early the next morning, the Manitowoc came back down the river, using it's thrusters in spurts to maneuver the curves in the river. Each thrust made our boat shimmy along the face dock. Men on deck watched from every direction to make sure they didn't hit anything, including us. It was amazing to watch. Somewhere in the back of my mind I felt like we should be anxious at how close they were to us but we were too busy watching it make it's way through the tight water, fascinated by the Captain's control over the massive vessel.

Manitowoc looming over us

Manitowoc passing Mystic

The Manitowoc going through Bascule Bridge

Manitowoc leaving Manistee

The Manitowoc leaving Manistee in the morning

Slipping through the Bascule Bridge

All hands on deck

Manistee is a lovely town. It seems busier and more vibrant than on our first visit nine years ago. It served as a harbor of refuge for us this time, creating a new memory to soften the first one. We were very happy that we were able to tuck in for the night. 

Ludington Michigan 2025

Our Lake Michigan crossing from Sturgeon Bay was a challenge but our visit to Ludington was great! We wanted an adventure and we wanted to revisit places we'd been during our Great Loop journey but we also wanted to connect with friends. Ludington is the home port of friends, Bob and Sue aboard their Monk 36, Mirror Image. We buddy boated the Erie Canal with them when they owned their Looper boat, the trawler Osimo. We were together from Waterford, New York to Saginaw Bay on Lake Huron, sharing many experiences and memories. Last year, we'd driven over to Ludington to spend time with them. This year, we'd be dock neighbors once again.

With Bob and Sue 
Ludington, Michigan 2025

Mystic and Mirror Image
Ludington, Michigan 2025

In addition to Bob and Sue, we had other friends to connect with in Ludington. Nancy and Bill, who we knew from our days living in Connecticut, had recently moved to Ludington. It had been about 25 years since we'd last seen them. We were excited for both reunions. 

When we got to slip B17 at Ludington Marina, Bob and Sue greeted us with big hugs and an offer of fresh salmon for dinner. Ludington is a huge fishing port and the salmon were running heavy this summer. Dock mates were sharing their bounties daily. Bob grilled the fresh fish with salt and onion. After the 11 hour crossing, we were hungry and grateful for the wonderful meal. We were also exhausted. We excused ourselves early to get some rest. 

Mystic at Ludington Marina slip B17

We had reserved our slip for two nights but decided right away to stay longer. In addition to wanting to spend more time with our friends, the weather was not cooperating with our plan to head north to Frankfort. Storms were coming in. Our best option would be a Sunday departure. We were told we'd have to move out of our slip and over to the wall in order to stay. Luckily, we met a Looper boat on the wall and told them we'd be moving behind them. They said they were moving to the slip next to Bob and Sue but were willing to stay on the wall. Their generosity allowed us to move right next to our friends for our third night. We were grateful that things worked out so perfectly.

New Looper Friends

After catching up on much needed rest, we awoke refreshed and ready to explore. Nancy and Bill came to visit us aboard Mystic. Nancy had followed our journey on America's Great Loop but this was the first time she had seen our boat. The moment we hugged, and it was like time evaporated; proof that we share a true, lifetime friendship that lasts forever and picks up right where it left off. Bob and Sue joined us on a walk to find a place to have dinner. We hoped to eat at the Jamestown Brewing Company but the line was long so we we settled for the Grand, a small local eatery with amazing fish offerings. After dinner, we sat aboard Mirror Image until 11:30, long past all of our bedtimes. Our chat led to the discovery that Bill grew up in Michigan and Bob and Sue and Bill and Nancy know some of the same people in the area. It is a small world.

We made plans to hike Ludington State Park with Nancy and Bill but rain and storms came in by mid day, so we visited their lovely home. The day evaporated into evening while we reminisced and caught up. In search of dinner, we went to Meijers Market and grabbed a roasted chicken, Amish potato salad, sesame noodles, and green salad with fruit and nuts. We ended up staying until 10:30. On the ride back to the marina, Nancy and Bill drove us around town and showed us their favorite sights. At the beach, we saw the Manitowoc, a bulk carrier, coming up the breakwater. It was lit up like a Christmas tree and filled the entire entrance channel. With eyes wide open, we watched from the shore, as it made it's way past the Badger ferry dock. When we got to the marina, we continued to watch it move up the river to it's docking port.

With Nancy and Bill
Photo by Nancy Miller Osborn

It was time for us to continue on our journey. Sue gave us salmon for the trip. This was the second time that dock mates shared their fresh catch. One couple also offered a taste of their own blackened salmon. It was fabulous! They used Zatarains Blackening Spice and soaked the fish in melted butter before pan frying it in a cast iron pan. Surprisingly they did not use oil. When we cooked the fish, we used our stainless Magma pan, melted lots of butter then added Zatarains Creole Seasoning and Old Bay. It was delicious in a hot dog bun with mayo; simple perfection!

Cooking Salmon aboard Mystic 

On Sunday morning, Bob and Sue helped us cast our lines and we were off, headed for Frankfort. It looked like we'd have a beautiful day to sail but the forecast wouldn't go as planned. That is the reality of cruising. We make plans A, B, and C and hope that one of them will work out in the end. Some days can be challenging but most days bring new adventures and experience with new challenges that we face.