Thursday, August 30, 2018

Swinging North to South Then Back Again

We spent part of summer working on a remodel at my mother's house in Connecticut. While there, we got a call from our friends asking us to head south for a two week cruise on their sailboat. After a 48 hour offshore run from Beaufort, South Carolina to Beaufort, North Carolina, and an additional 12 days moving north on the ICW, we arrived in Hampton, Virginia aboard their Island Packet 40, Veritas. It was an exciting adventure.

After completing the trip, it was time to make our way back to Connecticut. First, we had to deliver Susan and David back to their car in South Carolina. With only one evening to explore Hampton before heading south again, Susan and David went off to connect with local friends. We headed off on foot, to see what we could find. We stopped at Oozlefinch Microbrewery where the beer was good, and the brewery was quite busy. We chatted with a local guy who said it's his favorite spot. We could see why!

Beth & Dave in front of Oozlefinch

Oozlefinch Brewery Board

Sallyport Schwarzbier

The Taps

We walked back to get the car and drove through Fort Monroe. We spent a half hour or so walking around the park, taking in the sunset and evening view. The area is beautiful and popular with locals. There were many folks out and about. 

Old Point Comfort Light


Fort Monroe Boardwalk

We returned to Veritas for the night. In the morning, we packed our Expedition with our sailing gear and got on the road early. It took us seven hours to get to Beaufort, South Carolina. We exchanged hugs with David and Susan and turned right around to head north again toward Lumberton, North Carolina. It is a city of over 20,000 founded in 1787 along the Lumber River. Our friends Scott and Yolanda Moody are working in Lumberton. Our reunion was short but it was wonderful seeing them again. Our last visit was in April when we connected with them in Baton Rouge. We met in 2013 at Knife River Marina on Lake Superior. They have become close friends who we make every effort to cross paths with wherever we can. We chatted through half the night, getting very little sleep. Yolanda made us a fabulous breakfast before we headed out for the long drive to Connecticut. 

With Yolanda & Scoot in Lumberton

We wanted to make a couple stops along the way. Scott and Yolanda recommended a visit to Washington, North Carolina. We reached Washington at lunch time, parked in a downtown lot and took a walk on the boardwalk. Washington is a gorgeous town located on the inner banks, of the Pamlico Sound. It was founded in 1776 and was the first city named after General George Washington. Due to the importance of Washington, DC, it is referred to as Little Washington. We stopped in at the Visitor's Center to ask about the sunken boat in the harbor. Apparently, the owner deserted the boat after Hurricane Matthew. Washington does not have laws about removal of sunken boats so the owner was able to walk away from the responsibility of disposing of it. The County is now in the process of having it removed as well as working to pass laws that hold owners accountable for their vessel in the case of sinking.

Lots of crab statues in the South

Dinghy Docks

The Boardwalk

Dave in the park

Visitor Center porch rockers - Never get tired of them

Visitor Center Garden

Sunken sailboat to the right

Historic site

North Carolina Estuarium

Washington Festival Park with boardwalk

Next we drove to Edenton, North Carolina. We'd been intrigued with this town ever since Dave found it in our cruising guide. Arriving in the afternoon gave us very little time to explore. Edenton is a beautiful, historic town incorporated in 1722. It's located on Edenton Bay at the head of the Albermarle Sound. The historic district has several 18th, 19th and 20th century buildings. The Penelope Barker Welcome Center in the downtown harbor area caught our eye. We went on a guided tour of it with a volunteer who picked us out and began chatting with us about the construction of the home. He took us throughout the museum, including to the third floor which is not part of the tour. The area had sections of wall and ceiling which were exposed to show examples of the building practices in 1782. Dave and our guide had a detailed conversation regarding historic American carpentry.


Penelope Barker Visitor Center

Penelope Barker Visitor Center

Penelope Barker Visitor Center

Penelope Barker Visitor Center Porch

Harbor at Penelope Barker Visitor Center

Docks at Penelope Barker Visitor Center
 
Edenton Harbor

Roanoke River Lighthouse

Roanoke River Lighthouse

Roanoke River Lighthouse

Roanoke River Lighthouse

Roanoke River Lighthouse

Roanoke River Lighthouse at Edenton Harbor

Our tour guide directed us to a modest home in the heart of Edenton; telling us to drive by to see this historic wonder. Th tiny bungalow was purchased by a contractor who hoped to update it and flip it. After renovation began, he discovered that it could possibly be the first house built in all of North Carolina. The original construction, hidden in the walls, dated it. It is now a protected site.

This bungalow is believed to be the OLDEST house in North Carolina.  

We left Edenton feeling like we hadn't seen everything it had to offer. We hope to return one day, maybe stay awhile, possibly aboard Mystic. It took us another ten hours to drive from Edenton to Connecticut; we arrived at 1:00 am, exhausted but ready to enjoy the Labor Day weekend. We spent the next two weeks finishing up the projects we started before taking a break for our sailing adventure. It will be good to get back home to Minnesota. This was a long, seven week detour.


Wednesday, August 29, 2018

Veritas Crosses Her Wake Hampton Virginia

We are up and ready to get in line to cross under Great Bridge in Chesepeake, Virginia by the 8:00 am opening. Today is the final day of our 570+ mile cruise from Beaufort, South Carolina to Hampton, Virginia. Susan Beabes and David Taylor, aboard sailing vessel Veritas, will cross their wake today, completing their Great Loop adventure. We are all beyond excited!

Passing by Atlantic Yacht Basin work shed and fuel dock

Great Bridge Battlefield Museum and Visitor Center

We pulled away from the dock and queue up behind a beautiful, blue hulled sailboat already waiting for the bridge to open. We would later learn that Tootega, a 1988 Mason 44 is out of Minneapolis, Minnesota. We heard the captain call the bridge tender to say he would not be going through the bridge opening due to mechanical issues. We watched as he moved in forward and reverse, forward and reverse, wondering what they heck he was doing. Susan was bringing Veritas toward the bridge very slowly. Suddenly, the blue hulled boat started going in reverse at full speed. He was aimed right for the free dock along the eastern side if the waterway. I yelled "STOP". Susan responded, "I am stopped!" I said, "Not you, HIM!" We looked on in horror as he slammed into the dock. Susan quickly guided Veritas past him and out of harms way as we watched him throw his hands up in dismay. There was nothing we could do to help. The damage was done! As we made our way under the bascule bridge, we saw him head over to Atlantic Yacht Basin. The dock he hit was crushed! We were pretty sure there was damage to the boat as well. On our last day on the Loop we dodged a bullet!

Tootega lined up to go under Great Bridge

Tootega tangled up in Great Bridge dock

Tootega crashed into Great Bridge Museum Docks

Just past Great Bridge is the canal leading to the lock. The lock master had the gates open, waiting for us. We slowly entered the chamber and waited for help wrapping our bow and stern lines around bollards. The drop was only two feet. This lock is designed with two sets of doors that keep the fresh water of the south side of Great Bridge from mixing with the salt water north of the lock. This lock is the last of many, (around 90), which Veritas went through on the Great Loop.

Great Bridge Lock Canal passing the park

Approaching the Great Bridge Lock

Dave preparing to lock through

Entering the Great Bridge Lock David on the bow

David with the bow line

Dave with the stern line

When we left the lock chamber we entered the Elizabeth River. It is a winding and scenic marshland with wildlife on each bank. It slowly changed to industrial, ship building areas as we got closer to Portsmouth. Dave offered to take a turn at the helm but David declined. On his last day on the loop, David wanted to stay at the helm. We sat and chatted with him, watching for wildlife and pointing out day markers in the channel ahead.

Osprey

Egret

Eagle drying it's wings

Dock Tiki Hut

Meditation point

That's a whole lot of draft on this ship

As we made our way through Norfolk Naval Shipyard we were surprised to see a naval police boat with blue lights flashing. It appeared to be blocking our way. As we tried to pass, the police boat came over the VHF and hailed us, informing us that we had to stop. A submarine was preparing to depart. Security is high for submarines. We had to wait 45 minutes until the sub was out of sight. We watched her move up river with two escorts, one on each side, guiding her out. When we were finally allowed to pass we were warned that we must stay at least 500 yards away in all directions. We followed behind, up the channel to Hampton. The radio came alive each time the naval boat hailed anyone they met along the way, giving them a stern warning about allowing the sub a wide berth.

Navy Police boat blocking our way

Submarine preparing to depart

Submarine departing with escorts

Submarine leaving port

Naval air support

Submarine heading out to the bay

We passed mile zero on the Atlantic ICW at Red #36 as we continued through Norfolk. The city dock that Dave lived on back in the 80's aboard our 23 foot Coronado, Keewatin is now home to the USS Wisconsin Battleship Museum. We lived on this dock together for a few months before we began our journey south to the west coast of Florida. We have wonderful memories of this time in our life.  Norfolk has changed a lot but we still got warm fuzzies as we cruised by.

Red #36 Mile marker zero on Atlantic ICW

Navy Ship

Tall Ship Mystic

Norfolk Waterfront

Waterside Norfolk

Norfolk downtown docks

Welcome to Norfolk

USS Wisconsin Museum at our dock

Twins

Family sailing day

Navy ferry Nymph

Cargo ship

We crossed over the top of the Hampton Roads Tunnel. Norfolk has several of these car tunnels that allow boat traffic to pass over instead of under the roadway. We noticed a sweet Catalina 34 that was sailing close by. Suddenly the radio crackled and we heard a call to Veritas, welcoming us home. It was Gypsy Lady, with Susan and David's friend Steve at the helm. He was out sailing with the hope that he'd see us coming in. It was pure luck and perfect timing that we connected. This really got us excited. We were finally nearly there!

Gypsy Lady

Susan & David realize Gypsy Lady is following us

David chatting with Gypsy Lady on VHF

Once we turned toward the Salt Ponds, David moved Veritas closer to the shore which is lined with beautiful white beaches. We were looking for Chuck, David and Susan's friend who was on shore with a drone, ready to film us coming into port. We finally caught sight of him near the channel that leads to Southhall Landing Marina where Veritas started this journey. We waved at Chuck and waved at the drone laughing with delight. I took photos of Chuck from the water. Our excitement building.

Beach off of Fort Monroe

Fort Flag at half staff for John McCain

Fort Monroe Light view from the water

Fort Monroe light
Flag at half staff for John McCain

Fort Monroe Lighthouse

Veritas Burgee Pride

The Drone

Chuck directing the drone

With Susan at the helm, Veritas turned and lined up in the center of the entry channel of Salt Ponds. We were hit with a strong southwest wind that nearly pushed Veritas into shallow water. Susan struggled to keep her centered but the wind died as soon as we passed the outermost bit of land. The salt marshes of Southhall Landing are beautiful. We took it all in as we slowly passed the outer docks until we found the slip Veritas departed from. Susan slid between the pilings and brought Veritas to her home port slip. Folks came from nearby boats, ready to catch our lines. As we secured Veritas in her original home port, it began to sink in that the journey was complete! Susan and David have earned there Gold AGLCA burgee!

Veritas arriving at Southhall Landing
View from Drone Photo by Chuck Stollery


Garmin says we're there

There was a bit of celebrating on the dock with lots of hugs and good cheer. Friend Cassandra took photos of Susan and David with their new Gold burgee, then, along with her husband Pete, joined us in the cockpit for a toast. We raised a glass of our son's home brewed Mead for the occasion. We may have had a beer or two as well, rejoicing in the amazing accomplishment. It's a bittersweet moment; we're just a little sad to have it be over.

Celebration on the dock

Susan and David with their Gold Burgee
Photo by Cassandra Landrum

Celebrating the journey with Susan & David
Photo by Cassandra Landrum

Mead toast Veritas crosses her wake
Photo by Susan Beabes

Joyful celebration
Beth, Roy, David, Susan, Peter and Cassandra
Photo by Susan Beabes

Some Loopers just keep going while others move onto new adventures. Before we left Veritas for home, we gave Susan and David a list of 21 Looper questions. Question number 21...What's next?


21 Looper Questions