The Season of Planning

Once our boat is out of the water and wrapped up under her cover for the winter, we begin the season of planning. Midwest winters are long and cold! There is plenty of time to think about launching in the spring and the adventures that will unfold next cruising season. Planning makes our dreams seem tangible.

We were blessed with a visit from our sailing friends Dan and Nena Mooney in October. We spent a lot of time with them this summer; our two boats moving together along the panhandle of Green Bay. We had a great time buddy boating together, even on the days spent navigating side rollers and foul weather. We are planning a six week trip to the Georgian Bay next year.

Dan and Nena drove up from Oklahoma, making a detour to Minnesota before moving on to their destination in Egg Harbor, Door County. The weekend before their arrival was unseasonably warm but the day before their visit the temperature dropped and a big wind knocked down many of our leaves. This changed our world from beautiful fall colors to barren winter. In spite of the chill in the air, we spent a lot of time hiking with them during their stay. We visited the Taylor's Falls pot holes and the Franconia Sculpture Garden. We hiked in William O'Brien and Afton State Parks. We spent a morning at Como Zoo in the warm and tropical rain forest. We put in a lot of miles in three days but our greatest accomplishment was confirming our accommodations for a spring Rim to Rim hike of the Grand Canyon. This has been on our list of adventures for some time. The Mooney's have agreed to join us.

Hiking Taylors Falls 

View at O'Brien State Park

Fall Colors at O'Brien State Park

The fire tower at Franconia Sculpture Park

Dan and Nena at the top

Como Zoo Turtle

Como Zoo Tortoise

Como Zoo Sloth Chloe

Dan & Nena Afton State Park

Sailors in the off season hiking Afton State Park

Dave & Dan checking out the weather conditions

Dave and I have been trying to plan this hike for some time but have never quite firmed up the details required to make it happen. Once Dan and Nena showed an interest in joining us, the plans came together in one morning. We are not new to long hikes. Dave and I have run 13 marathons and have done a lot of day hiking throughout our travels in the US. Dan has hiked portions of the Appalachian Trail and Nena hiked the Camino Trail in Spain. I don't think stamina will be an issue. For me, it will be the heights. My greatest fear is the narrow trails with massive drops only feet away. Nena thinks that the south Bright Angel Trail out of the canyon may be more challenging than the short segments of drop offs. We both know that each section of the Rim to Rim hike will challenge us in it's own way, kind of like sailing does. Nena reminds me that we won't face anything alone. We've got each others back just like we did while cruising.

Wrapping Up Summer 2023

It's late September and we are preparing Mystic for winter haul out. The weather has been warm, giving us a taste of Indian Summer and making our last few days at the dock pleasant. The rain that we've missed for months is making up for lost time and waking up the flora that has been dry and brown all summer. Life at Nestegg is becoming more and more quiet. Folks only stop by on the weekends. Saturday night bon fires with our Stephenson Island dock mates are a common thing; as we hang onto summer as long as we can. 

Beth and Dave
Photo by Ric Mellon

Sharing Sailing Stories
Photo by Ric Mellon

Each time we visit, we empty more and more from Mystic's lockers and drawers. Our scheduled haul out date was on September 28th but we ended up coming out of the water on the 27th. As Mystic was raised high in the hoist we watched as the operator pitched her bow forward placing her in a dive-like position. Our hearts missed a beat at the sight of it. We'd never seen her slip into the cradle quite like that before. It was unnerving until her stern gently lowered back to level.

Mystic in dive position 

Balanced on her cradle

Winter storage line up

Once Mystic was settled on her cradle and lined up in the row of sailboats already on the hard, we gathered our kayaks and paddles and carried them home along with another truckload of gear. We will return one last time to wrap her up in her winter cover. It's a bittersweet time of year for us. We'll miss life living aboard our Alberg 35 on the Menomonee River but will fill the long winter months with planning for next year's adventures.

We returned to Nestegg early in October under stormy skies that chased us and teased us with scattered showers for the entire 5 hour trip. We found Mystic tucked between two larger boats that seem to be protecting her under their wings. It was far too windy to start installing the cover. Tired and hungry, we went to Brothers Three for their Friday fish dinner, our last one of the season.

The temp dropped dramatically into the 40's overnight but we have small electric heaters and a heating blanket that make overnight stays bearable. The winds were still howling in the morning. Reluctantly, we started the process of installing the cover in spite of how difficult we knew it would be. I stayed on deck and added each of the three cover segments while Dave tied temporary lines so the whole thing didn't soar off to Kansas! Each year, things go more smoothly for us. This year was no exception although it did take us longer than usual. After a day of hard labor we had the cover secured neatly except for the aft section which is designed as a back door entry for us to come and go from. Exhausted, we grabbed a pizza at Ellie's then headed off to bed early. Someone had a roaring fire going on Stephenson Island but we retired for the night.

Sunday morning we woke to a chilly 55 degree cabin. The outside temp was in the 30's. We had packed the coffee pot so we quickly dressed and went to grab a cup of coffee then took a ride around Marinette/Menomonee with the heat and the seat warmers set on high. Dave noticed a cargo ship coming in off the bay, led by and followed by tugs. We drove over the Ogden Street Bridge and parked at Menekaunee Park then hustled to the bridge to watch the Pacific Fortitude be escorted up the river and through the bridge. At 139 meters long with a 20 foot draft, Pacific Fortitude is a big girl. She is taller than the deck of the Ogden Street Bascule Bridge in the open position. Traffic was stopped for about 20 minutes. It was a treat to observe this miracle of navigation.

It took another couple hours to get all our bedding and last minute gear off of the boat. Dave tied the aft section while I shoved our gear in every little corner of our small car. She was all wrapped up by 10:00 am. It's always sad to walk away from her; withdrawal kicks in immediately!

Under the cover and out of the wind

Sailboat Row

Beth inspecting our hard work

Ready for winter

Sister Bay Door County Wisconsin

July 30, 2023

Mystic was docked in the reserved loading bay for the Rock Island ferry so we had to leave before the first arrival at 9:15. We motored out and around Washington Island into the calm of Schoolhouse Bay to prepare our boats for a day of sailing. As we set our sails, the fishing boat that we helped the night before passed us, honked and waved hello! We were able to sail from Schoolhouse Bay to the big bay but the wind was on our nose once we turned south, so we furled our jib and dropped our main then continued under engine power. 

Fishing Boat Friends in Schoolhouse Bay
Boyer Bluffs Door County

The big sailboat we met at Fayette had left Rock Island, caught us and passed us by at Gills Rock. We slipped into the Sister Bay harbor from the north, through a channel lined by shallows, with Shoo Fly following close behind. We entered the Sister Bay Marina breakwater and took a left down the first row of boats. We were directed to slip #37 between two massive power boats that dwarfed our Alberg 35. Shoo Fly was a few slips away in #34, also tucked between much larger power boats.

Shoo Fly at Sister Bay

Shoo Fly reflection in the hull of BIG boat

Mystic and Shoo Fly between big boats

Mystic at Sister Bay

After checking in at the marina office we walked to Stabbur Beer Garden. We shared a fabulous turkey and brie sandwich, washed down with a cold Door County brew. Dan and Nena's daughter, Christine, grandsons Elijah and Emmit, and granddaughter Kristin joined us. We met Elijah when he spent a week visiting Dan and Nena aboard Shoo Fly at Nestegg Marine. We enjoyed meeting more of the Mooney family. The Stabbur is part of Al Johnson's restaurant, a very popular Sister Bay eatery. The roof of Al Johnson's is covered with a grass lawn. In the summer months, goats keep the roof in check by eating the grass. At times, mowing and raking is required. 

Goats on Al Johnson's roof

Mowing and raking grass
on Al Johnson's roof

Sister Bay reminded us of Key West. At sunset, everyone gathered to participate in the setting of the sun, staying until it dropped below the horizon. It was a sacred experience with a beautiful, pink and orange sky. Once the sun disappeared, folks drifted away, we returned to our boats and the marina quieted down quickly. 

In the morning, we were up early and set off on a dock walk. There was a sailboat nearby with young children aboard. A little boy about five years old got in the bosun chair. His dad slowly hoisted him to the top of the mast while he giggled and begged to go higher. His brother raced up and down the pier on a bicycle. Each child was trying to capture their parent's attention. 

Tiny Sailor climbing mast

Checkout was at 11:00 and everyone on our dock was departing at the same time. We backed out of our slip, with Mystic pulling to the port side like she always does, which placed us pointing in the wrong direction. Dave swung Mystic around and made a tight 180, with just enough room to spare. As we passed by a group of men aboard a power boat, they cheered and yelled, "Nice work Captain!". Later, we learned that Dan had backed out of his slip only to find a power boat had snuck up behind him, blocking his route out. He waved the boat back and made a close cut to squeeze out of a cluster of docked boats. The guys that cheered for us also cheered for Dan. They must look forward to departure time to watch how each captain escapes the marina.

We left the harbor slowly so Shoo Fly could catch up. One of our dock neighbors in a big power boat came out behind us and blew past, throwing a huge wake. They waved a friendly goodbye, clueless that the wake would make us rock violently. This is an annoyance that happens often to sailboaters.

We planned to spend the night at Chamber's Island but the wind was not favorable for anchoring so we decided to return to our home port. We motored along, two boats, in tandem, past the Strawberry Islands, and the southeast shoal of Chambers Island. We pointed our bows toward the Marinette Lighthouse, making the run across Green Bay like two racehorses heading home for dinner.

Shoo Fly running alongside Mystic

Jackson Harbor Mishap To Rock Island Chaos

July 29, 2023

We departed from Fayette, Michigan in very light winds with Shoo Fly at our side. Our day was spent motoring along, enjoying an easy ride. Our next stop was meant to be Jackson Harbor on Washington Island for a two night stay. We called ahead to ask about depths because both of our sailboats have deep drafts; Shoo Fly draws 5 feet and Mystic 5.5. After entering the harbor, we were told to pass the red day marker and make our way directly to the dock. We did just that, moving very slowly. A boat was sitting in our way, on the end of the dock next to the channel where our slips were. Folks on board were chatting and watching our approach. We ran aground about 200 feet off the dock. Dave attempted to back us off while I warned Dan and Nena not to follow. They turned around right at a floating green Clorox bottle that someone had placed in the harbor and headed back out of the harbor. We were stuck in place. Contemplating our options, we watched Shoo Fly come to a dead stop as they hit a rock. Dan realigned toward the channel we'd entered and made his way out. Dave kept trying to back off with no luck until the wind lessened just a little and we finally popped free. He quickly turned Mystic and headed out of the very shallow water. We passed the green bottle to our starboard, unsure of it's purpose but going with our gut. Once back into the deep water, we contacted Dan and Nena and made the joint decision to head for Rock Island, just across the bay. 

Later, we talked to our friend Mark, a local sailor who is very experienced sailing Green Bay. He told us that we should have aimed at the left corner of the dock instead of the right where our slip was. We were surprised to learn that Mark had placed the green Clorox bottle at the left edge of the channel to assist boaters. Mark said that running aground in Jackson Harbor is very common.

Shoo Fly and Mystic crossed the bay and headed for Rock island. The 52 foot sailboat we saw in Fayette was tucked inside the dock. The pier  is "L" shaped. The outside is completely exposed to weather. The west winds we were experiencing made our approach sketchy. We tied Mystic off then prepared for Shoo Fly to come in. Both boats were bucking badly. As Shoo Fly attempted to tuck in behind us, her stern was getting forced into the corner of the dock, her bow was pushed away from the dock. I grabbed the bow line as Nena yelled a warning that they were about to hit the cement pier. Dave used all his strength to hold Shoo Fly off. His attempts definitely saved them from certain damage, but in the process, their stanchion snapped off at the base. Dan was able to tie it in place and it held incredibly well, but they would not be able to trust that stanchion for the rest of the trip.  

Rock Island Concrete Dock

The captain of the 52 foot sailboat noticed that we were being hammered by conditions on the outside of the dock and offered to let us raft up to him in the calm waters inside, but we declined their generosity. We usually only raft with boats we know well because you have to climb across their boat to get to land. We didn't want to impose on them.

The Rock Island ferry has two loading spots, one inside and one outside the pier. It docks based on weather condition, choosing the safest option for loading and unloading visitors to the park. A small fishing boat was in the ferry landing slip on the inside pier. We tied up about one foot from the yellow line on the outside. We had to tip our solar panel so Shoo fly could tuck in only six inches behind us. It was a tight fit! Both boats were getting hit with rollers on the nose and bobbing two feet up and down as the winds increased and the bouncing got worse. 

The Park Ranger asked Dave to help her move the little fishing boat out of the ferry's way for the next loading. The ferry's last run of the day is at 4:00. We planned to move inside right after but a power boat snuck in and took our spot. Resigned to spending a difficult night on the outside, we joined Dan and Nena for dinner aboard Shoo Fly. We were having a great time until we heard a loud bang and felt a violent impact. Dan thought Shoo Fly hit Mystic but we found that Shoo Fly's metal toe rail had hit the concrete dock taking a chunk out of it. It was time for us to move! 

The fishing boat left and the power boat that took our spot on the inside informed us that they were leaving too. When Shoo Fly hit the cement dock everyone heard it and came off their boats to see what happened. The crew of the big sailboat offered to help us walk our boats around from the outside into the protection behind the pier. Everyone pitched in including a child about 10 years old. This was an awesome example of the support we experience within the boating community. Nena took videos of the transfers. 

Mystic on the outside wall at Rock Island
Photo by Nena Mooney

Preparing to move our boats
Photo by Nena Mooney

Moving Shoo Fly
Video by Nena Mooney

Moving Mystic
Video by Nena Mooney

Things improved greatly once we moved inside. Later, we had the opportunity to pay it forward when a fishing boat approached the outside dock and tried to tie off in the rough conditions and dark night. We ran to grab their lines but it was so rough that they were uncomfortable staying outside the dock. We suggested they try the short end of the dock that also had some protection from the waves. We walked them around just like our dock neighbors had walked us around. Their boat settled nicely. They thanked us and offered us a beer but we were too tired to accept. It had been an eventful day for us. As we walked away the captain hollered "and to think we heard that all sail boaters were jerks". We laughed out loud at this rude comment that was actually meant as a compliment. The fishermen were acknowledging that sailors are really not that different from power boaters in the ways that matter.

Three Boats at Rock Island
Photo by Nena Mooney

Rock Island Sunset
Photo by Nena Mooney

View of Mystic through boathouse

Boathouse View of Mystic & Shoo Fly

Rock Island Boathouse

In the morning,  we had to be off the dock before the first ferry's arrival at 9:15. We got up early to walk to the Pottawatomie Lighthouse. The host greeted us and told us she woke at 3:00 am to singing and chanting coming from outside. It scared her. There was a full moon and she thought it could be a Wiccan group who were known to do this along the woods above the cliffs of Rock Island. She said the scariest part of it was that she heard someone try to open the entry door to the lighthouse.

Harbor Host greeting us at
Pottawatomie Lighthouse

We made it back to our boats and headed out of the harbor before the ferry even left the dock at Washington Island. Our final stop on our North Green Bay Loop will be Sister Bay on Door County. We'd weathered many "storms" on our journey but we know that the most difficult experiences make the best stories. Especially when you survive them.