Staying Put

Mystic is tucked into slip 10 on Stephenson Island, a tiny spit of land that sneaks under the interstate bridge between Marinette, Wisconsin and Menomonie, Michigan. It sounds really cool to say we're on an island, even though this is not a exotic location. There are only about about 30 slips on our pier, 75 in the whole marina. Most boaters are only here on the weekends. It's very quiet during the week.

Mystic tucked into slip 10 at NestEgg Marine

Marinette/Menomonie sunsets are always gorgeous

Stormy skies reflecting on the River

We decided to stay put this cruising season for several reasons. One major issue is that our land home has been neglected for the past 5 years of cruising. This spring we began the overwhelming task of catching up on maintenance. It's time consuming, but so rewarding to see the transformation after elbow grease and fresh paint have been applied.

Newly painted porch

In addition to house projects, we have many boat projects that we've put off while we've been cruising. Dave finally installed the new drains in the aft section of Mystic where standing water collects. We replaced worn and aging halyards and lines. Last year we applied eight coats of varnish to our brightwork.  We'll add a couple more coats to keep up that gorgeous shine we strive for. Our main hatch developed a soft spot which Dave patched with epoxy and teak laminate. In addition, he will add solid mahogany strips to the top of the hatch for protection. It will  give it a traditional look that matches our new doors.

Patch will be covered by a new top

Hatch will match these doors

Drilling the hole for new drains, YIKES!

Ready for drain

Looking nice and neat, a place for water to go

Hoping the drains will keep water from collecting

Staying in one place allowed us to explore the area. We are directly across the bay from Door County and there are many harbors and islands for us to visit. Mystic is familiar with Door County. At one time she was a charter boat based out of Sister Bay. We bought Mystic in Escanaba, Michigan, north of here. These waters are home to her.

Our marina is a small community that makes it easy for us to meet everyone. Our dock is our neighborhood! We share pot luck meals under the picnic shelter and tell sailing stories late into the night. We've gotten to know Marinette and Menomonie quite well on our walks, bike rides and road trips. Brother's Three is our favorite spot for Friday Fish Fry, a great deal at only $5.99. It goes down well with a Ahnapee Little Soldier microbrew.

Marinette sunset

Smooth sailing local Rum

Running Wisconsin

Menomonie Michigan

Kayaking Red Arrow Point

Seagull Bar

Our original plan was to cruise Canada and the Georgian Bay all summer. Canada didn't make entry easy at first and the number of Loopers has exploded, making dockage limited. It was easy to put that plan on hold until next year. It's a good thing that we stayed put! Nothing worked out the way we had hoped due to family obligations. A big chunk of summer was spent out east helping family with caregiving of my aging mom who has been struggling with health issues. We were so glad that we didn't have to leave Mystic in Canada in order to fly to Connecticut!

We'll spend as much time aboard Mystic as we can manage. Each visit lightens the stresses of every day life and fills us with peace.

Saving Amos

We had weird weather on the dock's at Stephenson Island today. We woke to a chill in the air that heated up quickly once the sun rose. The water was dead calm until the wind built from the north, then switched to the south before settling into a gusting and uncomfortable northwest blow. With the heat and wind gusts, we didn't get much done!

We went for a walk in the afternoon. On our way out of the marina, a tiny black dog came barreling towards us. We tried to greet him but he rushed by, in obvious distress. There wasn't anyone following him so we turned back toward our dock and tried to catch up to the little guy.

He ran right down the middle of the dock like he knew where he was going. Suddenly, he stopped just before the end and turned in a full circle looking at each boat in confusion. With the water behind him and us in front, we were in a faceoff. He began running toward us but this time he stopped at our feet. It seemed like he knew we were his only chance for help. He was panting and shaking with wild eyes that mirrored his physical condition. He looked hot and miserable, as well as very lost! It was clear that he'd been loose in the 90 degree heat for some time.

Our dock neighbor, Jeff, approached and said he thought the pup was overheating. He gathered a clean cloth and ice water then showed us how to cool the desperate old boy behind his ears and on his feet. We tried to give him water but he refused and continued to paint heavily. We were very concerned about heat stroke.

Jeff and Beth cooling Amos down

Beth offering water to Amos

Once we calmed him down a bit, we wrapped him in a dry towel and headed for the animal shelter across the river in Menomonie, Michigan. The shelter scanned him and found that he was chipped. It didn't take long to learn his name is Amos and that he lives in Marinette. The shelter immediately called his family. Hopefully, he'll be home soon.

Jeff's quick thinking and experience saved sweet Amos who was lucky to stumble upon a bunch of boat people during his adventure. We are accustomed to noticing when things are not what they should be and taking action. 

One of the things we love about boating life is all the unusual experiences we have. There is always something new to learn or teach and folks are ready to lend a hand at all times.

At the end of our long, hot and windy day, the universe painted the sky in breathtaking color; our reward for a day well spent!

A Dove Tale

When we arrived to uncover our sailboat this spring we found squatters had set up housekeeping on a very small ledge of our cradle. A dove pair were taking turns warming two perfect eggs. Waiting for gestation to be complete would delay our already late start to the sailing season. Foul weather had put the launching of boats three weeks behind. We were eager to be in the water but would have to get in line. This influenced our decision to wait on the eggs. The way we saw it, those doves had chosen us. 

Papa Dove sitting on the nest

Two perfect eggs

Interesting spot to set up housekeeping

We returned to our land home and worked on house projects while we waited for our dove babies to arrive. Research told us that gestation is 2 weeks with another 2 weeks of feeding to fledge. We didn't know, for sure, when the process began but thought we'd have babies when we got back in a week. Upon our return, we could see one egg under the parent but no baby doves. We peeked in that nest several times a day searching for a baby. Finally, I thought I saw a short tail coming out from under the adult. Indeed there was one baby in our nest. Later we'd learn that the second egg wasn't viable.

A tiny tail is peeking out from
under the right side of the adult dove

Parent spreads out to cover the baby

Baby tucked under a protective wing

We painted the bottom or our boat around the nest

At times our little charge was completely out from under the safety of the adult. We gawked at her downy baby feathers and took photos. We watched her get fat and evolve all week. Her flight feathers were coming in nicely. The parents fed her regurgitated seeds, a fascinating process to witness! 

Parent feeding baby

Yummy processed seeds

Baby is quite demanding

Cuddling after the meal

As the week passed, there wasn't a lot of room for everyone on that ledge anymore but the parents continued to take turns on watch. Eventually, they began leaving their youngster on her own for extended periods. They would sit on the ground and call out, trying to encourage her to fly. She was having none of that and demanded that they feed her on every visit.

Parents leave baby alone often

Big baby sits next to parent

Watching the world pass by

Getting bigger every day

It was finally our turn to launch. Our baby would have to fledge or be re-homed. I made a new nest out of mowed grass placed in a cement planter nearby. It was far more sophisticated than the doves modest abode on the ledge. We'd added a 2×4 roof to the back of the planter for shelter from the sun.

She liked to sit on the other egg

She's looking strong but still won't fledge

On Friday morning, as the marina yard awakened to the noise of the harbor hoist, Dave delicately laid a soft towel over our dove baby. He gently carried her to her new home. She didn't like the move at all and reacted by flying out of the new nest and away from us. We were thrilled to see that she could actually fly but then devastated to watch her crash land in the middle of our river canal. We couldn't reach her but mom and dad were screeching loudly, "FLY BABY, FLY!"

Suddenly our fledgling took flight again and crashed in the water within reach of Dave. He snatched her up and returned her to the planter. We breathed a deep sigh of relief that all our patience hadn't ended in tragedy. As we worked all morning to get S/V Mystic launched, I checked on our baby often. She was catching her breath in the comfort of her new home. After about four hours, she was gone.

There are hundreds of doves in Marinette. Our baby is going to blend in quite quickly! We'll never know what became of our fledgling but we gave her the best chance for survival. For that, we are at peace. We feel great about our decision to let the dove family nest before launching Mystic. It just seemed like the right thing to do. Our friend Mary Miles told us, "You two are good eggs!"

Mystic in her slip at NestEgg Marine

Another Year of Adapting

We finished our America's Great Loop adventure last August and began making plans to cruise to new places for the summer of 2022. The Georgian Bay was tempting us with it's scenic and secluded islands and anchorages. There are, literally, thousands of islands to explore. It is the home of Baie Fine, the largest fresh water fjord in the world. Dave cruised there in our 23 foot Coronado, S/V Keewatin, back in 1982. He hasn't stopped talking about it.

Canada across from the Detroit River

We've been planning our visit all winter. Covid restrictions were loosening and Canada was opening up to boat traffic. Unfortunately, it was easier to enter by any means other than by boat. Most of the small craft customs entry reporting sights were closed. We would have to go back to Detroit to enter Canada. We began to rethink our plan A. 

After wrestling with what we wanted to do as opposed to what we could do, we decided to go with Plan B and stay put in Marinette, Wisconsin. We are right across from Door County where there is much to explore. We love Lake Michigan and are excited to see more of it as well. We can hang out at the marina and make lemonade from the lemons of the current world condition!

Just as we were about to reserve a slip at NestEgg Marina for the summer most of the Canadian entry ports reopened. This gave us options; lots of options, for our summer adventures. Much of our cruising involves adapting. We've changed plans, course, and schedule countless times aboard S/V Mystic. Unfortunately fuel prices are continuing to rise. The number of cruising boats has increased and marina space is limited and at a premium. Instinct and experience is telling us to stay put. We will go with the flow like we always do. Door County, Green Bay and Lake Michigan have a lot to offer. Once we launch Mystic our summer plans will come together. They always do! 

Last weekend, we drove five and a half hours to NestEgg Marine where Mystic sat for the winter. As soon as we arrived we noticed that the cover was sitting oddly at the bow. We figured out why when we unzipped the sections, relaxing the tension. A ton of water poured over the side. Apparently, heavy snow created a pocket that collected rain. Our cover looked a bit stretched out but the water did not make it through to the boat. The Surlast fabric held up well.

Weighted pocket just inside our lifeline
Fabric puckering caught our attention

Our next discovery was a tiny squatter setting up housekeeping on our cradle. Mama Dove built a sparse twig nest and laid two beautiful eggs between our hull and the cradle. They are larger than we expected. She watched us do our work but showed no signs of leaving.

Dove keeping an eye on Beth

Unfortunately, our new foster chicks will delay our launch further. This wasn't part of the plan but we're looking at it as an opportunity to finish up projects at home and on the boat. We'll spend another year of adapting with adventures slipped in wherever we can! We can't complain; messing around with boats is not a bad way to spend the summer!

S/V Mystic - America's Great Loop Statistics

We left Knife River Minnesota on September 4th, 2016, aboard S/V Mystic, our 1966 Pearson Alberg 35. Our goal was to make it to the ocean. We became "Loopers" after our friends Jim and Linda Weckman shared their dream of completing America's Great Loop. The first stop on our Loop was to visit Jim and Linda in Bayfield, WI. They sent us off with support and encouragement and then followed us all along the way. 

September 4th, 2016, the day we left Knife River, MN

We completed our Great Loop adventure on August 21, 2021, crossing our wake at St. Ignace, Michigan. Our trip took us just shy of five years. This included two extended delays that kept Mystic on the hard for long periods of time. The first was in 2018 when Mystic sat in the yard at St. Augustine Marine Center for 22 months while we took care of things at home. We didn't intend to be off our boat for that long but life had other plans for us including a new hip for Dave and a trimalleolar ankle fracture for Beth. The second delay was in 2020 during the Covid shutdown. Mystic was on the hard at Frank Hall Boat Yard in Avondale Rhode Island for 22 months. We could have continued on our journey during the pandemic but heard that marina's would accommodate us but may not let us off our boat. This defeated our number one reason to cruise; we wanted to explore new places and meet new people. We decided to wait for things to open back up.

August 21, 2021 Crossing our Wake
St. Ignace, MI

Our Great Loop Stops

We kept track of a few statistics along the way. The following are the stats that best tell our story:

6557.5 Miles covered from Knife River, MN (start) to  St Ignace, MI (wake crossing)

452 Days on the Loop

1361 Days on the hard:
22 months in St. Augustine, FL
22 months in Avondale, RI

$1366.52 Diesel Cost (Average = $2.72/gallon)

502 Gallons of Diesel: We burn about 1/2 gallon of diesel per hour and averaged 13 miles per gallon at about 6.5 miles per hour travel speed.

61 days Anchored

65 days Free docks/walls

15 days Free Mooring 

16 days Paid mooring

208 days Paid marina dockage (Average dockage fee $36.00)

$7,450 Transient Marina cost (does not include when Mystic was on the hard)

Cheapest Marinas: 
$15 at Sea Hag Marina in Steinhatchie, FL (due to no-seeums swarm).
The MI Harbor of Refuge Marinas were also less expensive than other parts of the Loop.

Highest Dockage price - Half Moon Bay, Croton-on-Hudson - Published "Looper Rates @ 25% off" but charged us $2.85/FT. Gave us 10% off the length of our boat ($3.50 total) saying it was no longer Looper Season in early July. There were about a dozen Looper boats at this marina with us.

Mast stepping/un-stepping: 
Mast down at Anchors Way Marina in St Joseph, MI, $150.
Mast up at Turner Marine in Mobile, AL, $250.
Mast down at Castleton Boat Club, Castleton on Hudson, NY, $50 to use their crane.
Mast up at Perry's Landing Marina in Erie, PA, $150. Stepped by Pennsylvania Port Authority.

Longest 1 day distance: 100 miles - Atlantic City, NJ to Atlantic Highlands, NJ (14 hour day)

Shortest 1 day distance: 14 miles - Erie Canal Brockport, NY to Albion, NY. Our buddy boat Osimo got stuck by a lift bridge failure. We waited for them at Albion.

Warmest temps: in the 90's from Florida through the Carolina's 

Coldest Temps: 28 F with frost on the boat on the TennTom

Largest tide: 9 feet at Thunderbolt GA (along with much of the AICW)

Number of pump outs: zero (We used a composting toilet)

Locks: 69 
1 -   Sault St Marie
24 - Inland waterway
2 -   ICW at Cape Canaveral
5 -   Crossing Lake Okeechobee
1 -   Great Bridge VA
35 - Erie Canal
1 -   Black Rock Lock

Buddy Boats:
Mucho Gusto - Looper
Sea Marie - Looper
Life's TraVails - Looper
Delphinea - from Hawaii
Andromeda Sol - from South Africa
Osimo - Looper

Long term stays at marinas:
Columbus Marina - Columbus, Mississippi
Turner Marine - Mobile, Alabama
SAMC - St Augustine Florida
Anclote Marina - Tarpon Springs
Frank Hall Boatyard - Avondale, Rhode Island
Titusville Municipal Marina - Titusville, Florida
Osprey Marina, Myrtle Beach - North Carolina

Erie Canal: 12 Stops
Waterford
Scotia Landing
Amsterdam
Canajoharie
Ilion
Slyvan Beach
Baldwinsville
Lyons
Bushnell Basin
Brockport
Albion
Tonowanda

Forced layovers on the Erie Canal 10 Days:
2 Days - Waterford
5 Days - Canajoharie
3 Days - Baldwinsville

Tows by Towboat US:
1. New Smyrna, FL - Ran aground, towed back into channel
2. Oyster Bay, Long Island, NY - Lost our transmission, towed from anchorage to mooring ball

Ran aground (Mystic's draft is 5.6):
St Mark's - Local family pulled us off,
Bradenton Beach - Waited for tide to float off 
Peck Lake - Got off on our own
New Smyrna - Towboat US 
Isle of Palms, South Carolina - got off on our own

Major Repairs
New Transmission
New wooden spreaders built and replaced
Bilge pump repair

Microbreweries - 55:
Castle Danger - Two Harbors, MN
Keewanaw Brewing Company - Houghton, MI
Vierling - Marquette, MI
Blackrocks Microbrewery - Marquette, MI
Lake Superior Brewery - Grand Marais, MI
Storm Cloud Microbrewery - Frankford, MI
Silver Harbor Brewing Co - St Joseph, MI
Tangled Roots Microbrewery - Ottowa, IL
Rhodell Brewing - Peoria, IL
Serda Brewing - Mobile, AL
Fairhope Brewing Company, Fairhope, AL
Tin Roof - Baton Rouge, LA
Props Microbrewery - Fort Walton Beach, FL
Oyster City Microbrewery - Apalachicola, FL
Silverking Microbrewery - Tarpon Springs, FL
DeBine Brewing - Palm Harbor, FL
Stilt House Brewery - Palm Harbor, FL
Cage Brewing - Tampa, FL
3 Daughters Brewing - Tampa, FL
Millennial Microbrewery - Fort Meyers, FL
Bury Me Brewery - Fort Meyers, FL
Playalinda - Titusville, FL
A1A Alehouse - St Augustine, FL
Prohibition - St Augustine, FL
Hidden Springs Microbrewery - Tampa, FL
Dog Rose - St Augustine, FL
BOG Microbrewery - St Augustine, FL
Old Coast Ales Microbrewery - St Augustine, FL
Intracoastal Microbrewery - Melbourne, FL
Bugnutty Brewery - Merritt Island, FL
Dirty Oar Brewery - Cocoa, FL
Hell and Blazes - Melbourne, FL
Gordon Bierscht Brewing Co - Myrtle Beach SC
Fishtown Brewery - Beaufort, NC
Legend Brewery - Portsmouth, VA
Oozlefinch - Hampton, VA
Grain H20 - Summit Bridge, DE on the C&D Canal
Carton Brewing Co - Atlantic Highlands, NJ
Greysail Brewing - Westerly, RI
Outer Light - Groton, CT
B'eerd Brewery - Stonington Borough, CT
Barley Head Brewery - Mystic, CT
Shunock River Brewery - North Stonington, CT
Bank & Bridge Brewing - Mystic, CT
Stony Creek Brewery - Brandford, CT
Oyster Bay Brewery - Oyster Bay, NY
Subversive Malt House - Catskill, NY
Crossroads Microbrewery - Catskill, NY
WT Brews - Baldwinsville, NY
Seven Story Brewing - Bushnell Basin, Perinton, NY
Stoneyard Brewpub - Brockport, NY
Noble Beast Microbrewery - Cleveland, OH
Masthead Microbrewery - Cleveland, OH
Put-in-Bay Microbrewery - S Bass Island, OH
III Bridges Brewing - Menomonie, MI

Boat Improvements:
New RIB Dinghy
New E-propulsion dinghy motor
Custom winter boat cover
Custom mast cradle that doubles as frame for boat cover
Dinghy Chaps
Solar Panels
Upgraded Refrigeration
Rain Tarp
Sun Shade
Wind Scoop
New dock lines
New laminated fir spreaders
Storm Tri-sail and mast track
Tiller bracket reinforcement
Settee tabletop refinish to mahogany
New mahogany interior doors
Solar anchor lights
45 pound Mantus anchor

Maintenance:
Oil changes every 100-200 hours
New water pump impellers every year
New Alternator belt yearly
Bottom Paint (2 times on the Loop over 5 years)
Teak varnish (3 times on the Loop over 5 years)
New lines, docking & running rigging
Bilge pump float replacement
New Batteries

Best Looper Docktales: (This was always tied to the Number of Loopers present although some of our very best docktale memories were with our buddy boats.)
Green Turtle Bay
Turner Marine
Canajoharie
Baldwinsville
Cleveland

Questions about our Looping experience:

In 2018, our Looper friends, David Taylor and Susan Beabes, completed their Loop aboard Veritas, their 40 foot Island Packet sailboat. We posed the following list of questions to them, knowing that one day we'd be able to answer them for our adventure. Here are our answers in reference to our America's Great Loop experience.

1. Favorite Marinas:
Titusville Municipal Marina (FL)
Chagrin Lagoon Yacht Club (Lake Erie)
Castleton Boat Club (NY)
Turner Marine (AL)

2. Favorite Town:
Frankfort (MI)
Tarpon Springs (FL),
St Augustine (FL)
Avondale (RI)
Baldwinsville (NY)
Presque Isle (MI)

3. Scariest Moments:
Leaving St Joseph, MI with mast on deck
Entering Dog River with mast on deck
Near collision by tow on the TennTom while we were anchored

4. Most Special Moments: 
The day we left Knife River
Meeting our first buddy boat and friends Scott and Rhonda Joiner on S/V Mucho Gusto
Seeing family and friends along the way
Crossing our wake

5. Biggest Relief: 
Surviving Frankfort, MI storm
Getting off Lake Michigan
Making it through the shallows of the AICW
Arriving at Turner Marine

6. Worst Weather:
Frankfort, MI (3 day storm)
Atlantic City (4 day storm)
Lake Erie (80 mph winds)

7. Coldest Day: 28 F in November on the TennTom

8. Hottest day: In the 90's Mosquito Lagoon near Titusville, FL

9. Best decision in hindsight:
Not going to the Bahamas due to timing (Can't be in a hurry on the Loop)
Turning back to Cleveland on Lake Erie (80 mph winds)

10. Favorite Crossings: (weather is everything when making a crossing)
Gulf of Mexico
Lake Huron

11. Favorite Restaurants:
Bobby's Fish Camp - Alabama
The Blue Gill - Mobile, AL
Ivy - Robertsdale, AL
Meg O'Malleys Irish Bar - Melbourne, FL
Blue Hen Cafe - St Augustine, FL
Don and Paul's Coffee Shop - Waterford, NY

12. Favorite meal on board:  Nibbles, (finger foods for docktails)

13. Windiest day: 80 mph - Cleveland, OH

14. Best Sailing Areas:
Great Lakes
Gulf of Mexico
Chesapeake Bay
Green Bay

15. Biggest Boat Repair: Transmission Replacement, Oyster Bay, NY 2021

16. Favorite Comfort Item on the Boat: Fans and Wind Scoop

17. Greatest lesson learned on the Loop: Plan for A, B and C, but be prepared for none to work out

18. Best Advice You Got on the Loop:
Delaware City Marina Dock Master Tim helped us plan our timing for tides on the Delaware bay
Transmission replacement advice from friends Jim Weckman and Mark Sauchuk
Advice to try yacht clubs if marinas are not an option.

19. Where do we wish we'd stopped but didn't: Bahamas, Cuba, Key West

20. What would we do differently?
Add a dodger
Made fewer long term stops
Talked to more yachts clubs for dockage

21. What's next: Cruise Lake Michigan, Georgian Bay and Canada, Return Mystic to the Ocean

22. Biggest Surprise on the Loop:
The color of the water in the Detroit River, St Clair River and Lake Huron
How little we could sail on the Loop due to head winds and our mast being on deck.

Beth & Dave on Mystic - Reflections; Lake Superior

We had the time of our lives on this journey of a lifetime.
We can't wait to get back out on the water to continue exploring...beyond the Loop!