Thursday, June 27, 2013

St. Ignace to Lime Island

June 27, 2013 

After breakfast and a walk through town, we lathered up with SPF30 and cast our lines under an overcast sky at 9:45 am.  It was a bit chilly and damp out on the water. We have our new fly swatters in hand, ready for the onslaught. Motoring at 6.5 knots we are wearing fleece and long pants. I have my foul weather jacket on as well. 

Light rain started to fall around 11:45. It only took an hour or so before we had to add 2 layers of clothes on the bottom and 4 layers on top, as well as shoes on our cold feet.  The sky was hazy with occasional showers and there were bugs everywhere. Mystic was dotted with the remains of those that were not quick enough to avoid the swatter. A major cleaning will be needed once we reach Knife River. 


There is a lot of time to think while we are cruising; with moments of total focus on some issue at hand; a boat coming our way or a channel marker we should be passing. There is never a dull moment. Dave and I enjoy each other's company and spend our day chatting.  We wish we had more time at each stop.  We would have loved to stay longer on Rock Island and St. Ignace. 

Cargo ship off our port side

Our next stop is Lime Island, a State owned park with a dock which was once used as a fuel dock for cargo ships. It looks interesting and will put us another 50 miles or so closer to home. The dock is a long pier with a tern nesting site alongside it. It is said to be the largest colony of terns on the Great Lakes and is protected by an electrical fence. As we came into port, we motored right next to the birds. I wanted to take photos but had to pay attention to docking. Later we spent time photographing these beautiful little creatures. 

We met the island caretaker, Dave, who told us he didn't know anything about the island. It was his first week as host. He found the opportunity in the back of a fishing magazine. It seems that anyone who wishes to do so can spend time on these state parks as hosts. It is something we would definitely consider one day.

Dockage on Lime Island is $15 per night. There is a drop box for submitting payment. Dave, the host, told us, " Pay or don't pay, I don't really care; however, the DNR will be looking for you if you don't pay."  He explained that his job was to get our registration number and document that we stayed, nothing more. 

After making sure our payment was in the drop box, we set off to explore the island. The former dock master's quarters is now a historic museum. It is called "the big house". Eight small houses which were once inhabited by families are now rented out at $65/per night. A boardwalk leads to six campsites set on wooden platforms with views of the St. Mary's River. In addition, there is a 1916 schoolhouse on the Island. It was not open for us to tour so Dave took a photo through the window. The island is inhabited by a lot of mosquitos.

Tern nesting area on Lime Island

We walked down the boardwalk to visit the campsites then followed the path to the river.  There was a substantial amount of coal all around, most likely it dropped from the ships that came to the Island to refuel. On our way back to the dock, we met a woman who told us she was visiting with 20 family members for a week-long family reunion. Her grandmother grew up on the Island and her Grandfather worked the docks. We were fascinated to hear her story and wished we had the opportunity to stay the week and sit around the campfire with this group in order to learn more.

1916 Schoolhouse

Interior of Schoolhouse

We made our way back to the docks as thunderstorms moved in. They lurked around us all night but it was the warmest part of the day and we hoped it would stay that way. The sun peeked through the clouds just enough to color the sky. Dave hung a mosquito net over the hatch before turning down the lights.

Peaceful Place - Lime Island

View of the Island as we departed



Musings:

Note to self, Lime Island has a very high wall where boats tie up.  We figured out as we left that moving forward on the pier to the point that has a low spot and a ladder makes boarding and leaving the boat less treacherous.


Rocket Club's new song 'Now . Here. This', fits our day perfectly. The lyrics remind us to 'be in the moment' whenever we can! This could be "the best damn ever 27th of June!"

Wednesday, June 26, 2013

St. James Harbor (Beaver Island) to St. Ignace

Wednesday, June 26, 2013 

We woke to a sunny and calm morning.  Bundled up in multiple layers we motored all day. We passed several lighthouses and we were very excited to go under the Mackinac Bridge. It is huge at about 5 miles across from shore to shore and really high at 155 feet off the water. It is said to be the fourth longest span in the world. We could see the cars through the grating as we passed beneath; cool but also kind of creepy!

Cars crossing the Mackinac

Approaching the Mackinac

After arriving at St. Ignace, we went straight for the showers. It had been four days so this was a priority and a luxury! We had dinner at The Marina Pub; a whitefish hoagy and a turkey on rye. The food was great and the beer was cold!  Sitting on the outdoor patio, we enjoyed watching the old cars arrive in town for the antique car show. Our daughter, Brielle, called us while we were having dinner. It was nice to hear her voice and catch up.  Contact from home makes any day a good day.
  
This old Mercedes...I could drive!

Marina Pub Garden

We got a good night's sleep; it rained off an on all night so the boat was very wet in the morning. We walked to town to find a store where we could buy fly swatters.  Ace hardware had a electric hand held zapper,  but we settled for 2 old fashioned ones. The cashier directed us to the BnL CafĂ© or Bentley's for a good cup of coffee. Bentley's has been around since somewhere around the 50's and hasn't changed a bit.  The food was good old home cooked eggs, potatoes and toast, and LOTS of coffee. The best part, by far though, was that they had WIFI.  Finally we could connect and post our progress.

Bentley's Cafe

Main Street has a river walk along the waterfront. The St. Ignace lighthouse sits at the end of a long pier. This lighthouse is quite striking but is really just for show. The park was very popular with locals.

St. Ignace Park Lighthouse

Musings:




Chance Encounter ~ Dan Branson and St. Ignace Marina

Wednesday, June 26, 2013 brought us one of those experiences that you never forget. We had made the crossing from St. James Harbor, Beaver Island, under the Mackinac Bridge and were ready for a stop over at a marina. We wanted to stay on Mackinac Island but re-thought that decision when we read that it was crowded with tourists, and it was recommended we call ahead for a marina slip.  We decided to pull into the St. Ignace marina on the mainland.

St. Ignace Marina

The harbor has protected docks within a breakwater.  We pulled up to the gas dock and filled up the tank. We asked the attendant about docking slip for the night. We paid for diesel, moved to our slip then walked up to the marina office to pay for our slip. Dave commented that a man walking along the path toward us looked a lot like Dan Branson, the Vinette boatyard owner who launched us in Escanaba three days ago.  I responded, "Dave, that IS Dan."

How awesome is life...Two days ago, we waved goodbye to him in Escanaba.  We traveled by water and chose a marina based on a cruising book, a last minute change to our original plan to stay on Mackinac.  The timing for our paths to cross had to be almost exactly perfect to see each other but it happened.

We asked Dan what he was doing in St. Ignace.  He looked as baffled at seeing us as we felt seeing him. He said he was delivering a car for someone.  He stopped at the marina to ask for directions. Coincidence? Maybe or maybe not, regardless, it was a delightful encounter for us!

Life is good and funny and chaotic. Sometimes, if we are lucky, we experience an event that makes us see that life is an amazing journey, full of surprises.  We have to pay close attention in order to enjoy all there is to experience.  We will never forget this chance encounter.

Rock Island to St. James Harbor Beaver Island

Tuesday, June 25, 2013 ~ 

We waved goodbye to Rock Island at 8:45 and arrived safely @ St. James Harbor at 9:45.  Beautiful, safe and tucked away, we were hungry, tired and happy to be on the hook.  I made jambalaya with fish and scallops for a one pot meal.  We enjoyed a beautiful sunset!

Sunset on St. James Harbor

The crossing was not bad but the weather changed often, leading us to be in layers and then in bathing suits then back in layers. We passed the Rock Island Light within a half hour then headed into open water. The day started out relatively clear but became foggy. Boulder Reef marker should have been on the port side but we never saw it. We aimed for the south side of Beaver Island. We drifted North by 3-4 miles so we went around to St. James Harbor via the North end of the Island. The waves were hitting our starboard side. We had to take the auto pilot off and manually steer.  Mystic handled well. We kept the main and foresail up most of the day but reefed them both toward the end of the crossing when the wind increased to about 20 mph. The unknown is stressful but exciting and it's encouraging when we see that we can handle what we face.

Rock Island Light

Our anchorage is lovely.  We don't have time to go ashore but would love to come back and explore this Island. The water is Crystal clear; we could see the bottom. When we woke on Wednesday there were two other boats anchored nearby. We never heard them come in. We could hear people talking on shore at one of the docks. Their voices carried over the harbor and we smiled as we listened to their excitement as they counted the boats in the Harbor.

Anchorage at St. James Harbor, Beaver Island

Dave will pre-reef the main before we leave for Mackinac Island today.  Yesterday's reefing didn't go as well as we hoped. One reefing line broke so he reefed the lines on either end of the boom and left the rest. Conditions were rough and he was getting thrown around a bit.  We are learning and enjoying the process. It was a long day putting 70+ miles under our keel.

We're heading for Mackinac tomorrow hoping to stay the night on the Island.

St. James Light
Musings:
  • Biting flies are the scourge of Lake Michigan
  • Rock Island is a MUST SEE!!!
  • Roller furling and auto pilot...don't leave home without them.
  • Yelling "land ho" when there is no land in sight is NOT funny!
  • Any broadcast on the VHF is interesting when you haven't seen a vessel in 5 hours.
  • The right amount of wind from the right direction is good, the wrong amount of wind from the wrong direction is bad!
  • The marathon sticker on my bumper applies to cruising:  "Every mile earned, never given"

Tuesday, June 25, 2013

Rock Island WI ~ Paul and The Water Snakes

Tuesday, June 25, 2013 

We are preparing to leave the dock at Rock Harbor around at 8:00 am. Paul and the Park Ranger, who arrived via boat this morning, stopped by to chat. Paul offered to help us with our docking lines as we maneuvered our departure. He made note of the water snakes that were just beginning to slither their way up the dock wall to sit and sun themselves.  He told us that there would be about 30 of them before the sun got too high.  I was so glad we did not know about the snakes when we arrived yesterday.  Paul said he has an understanding with the snakes which will bite if provoked.  The agreement: He won't bother them and they won't bite him. 

Rock Island Water Snakes

The Park Ranger told us that unpleasant boaters come to the island and don't want help with docking.  They are rude and difficult, and sometimes unkind to Paul.  These folks were often directed to tie up on the outside of the dock. We had been directed to tie up on the inside. The Ranger explained that the snakes only climb the outside of the dock.  Boaters are not informed of the snakes morning routine. At times, a snake has been known to board a docked vessel, usually to sit in the sun on the swim platform. Paul giggled as the Ranger described hearing screams from boaters just off shore when a wayward snake had been discovered. It was very nice to know that we were thought of as friendly and considerate boaters.

Caretaker Paul and Beth keeping an eye on the snakes!

Monday, June 24, 2013

Escanaba to Rock Island, Door County, Wisconsin

Monday, June 24, 2013 

We slept GREAT last night.  Breakfast at the Family Inn in Escanaba, good ole home cooked food, fast and abundant.  Time to get organized, then make a last minute run to the grocery store.  Hoping to set sail mid-day.

Minneapolis Shoal Light

The day got away from us, we left Vinette around 2 pm which was much later than we hoped.  Dan, his brother Jeff and the yard worker Tom helped us launch from the dock after lashing the dinghy to the bow.  They directed Dave out of the harbor, "Keep the boathouse directly behind you.  If you can see the South wall, you are too far South; if you can see the North wall you are too far North."  Dan mentioned that Mystic pulls to the port side when in reverse.  Dave nodded acknowledgement.

We had hoped to leave Escanaba under sail but we motored 4.5 hours into a stong SW wind.  Originally we thought we'd aim for Jackson Harbor on Washington Island but Dan convinced us that "Rock Island is a must see!" We arrived at Rock Island at 6:50 pm.  There were beautiful rock buildings on a white rock beach.  Large patches of white dotted the shoreline, over rocks and grassy areas.  I knew it had to be flowers which it turned out are called "Snow In Summer", PERFECTLY named!  There wasn't anyone around but people came out of nowhere and everywhere to help us dock the boat (our very first time).

Rock Island Boat House ~ Door County WI

We could dock inside or outside of the finger dock.  Inside looked narrow and shallow so Dave aimed for the outside.  Paul, the Harbor Master, motioned him inside saying there were 7 feet of water.  Our draft is 5'3".  We went inside and Dave mastered it as though he'd been doing it for years.  Paul was a sweetheart, friendly and knowledgeable.  He informed us that we were the first sailboat of the season.  It was a cold spring in Door County.

The island was formerly owned by Chester Thordarson, the man who invented the transformer.  His children sold the Island to the State of WI after his death. Visit http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rock_Island_(Wisconsin) to learn more about this fascinating man.

Rock Island Light

We went on a 4 mile walk around the Island, visiting the beach, the lighthouse and the burial site of Chester Thordarson, a humble resting spot for someone of such importance.  I suppose it was his wish to be buried on his beloved island.

The island is banked by round white rocks.  The south facing beach was sandy, the North facing side was cliffs.  Thordarson brought the beautiful snow in the summer 'Cerastium tomentosum' to the island.  I want this growing in my gardens.

Snow in Summer

The island was peaceful and quiet.  There were lots of people camping.  Bathrooms available but no showers. We plan to visit again.  Thanks to Dan Branson for recommending this "must see" stop.


Musing for the day:

How to start the motor
o Key in, lever in at Nuetral
o Push to align 1st
o Synchronize by moving lever forward and back a couple times
o Turn key to "heat", hold 5-10 seconds, light comes on
o Turn key to start, engine starts
o Walk back to make sure water is pumping out the back

Left Escanaba @ 2:06
Arrived Rock Island @ 6:50
4 hours 45 min on engine power

Sunday, June 23, 2013

And, We're Off!!!

Our trip to deliver Mystic from Escanaba, MI to Knife River, MN begins on Sunday 6/23/13, at 12:07 pm when we left Stillwater for the 6.5 hour drive to MI.  We'd hoped to leave Stillwater by 10:00 am but I was up most of the night suffering with food poisoning.  I haven't been that sick in a long time.  It was not the greatest way to start our trip.  I was feeling better by the time we left but I was worried about dehydration.


The truck is packed.  Our friend, Chris, could not make the trip with us so we are able to spread out.  We remembered our passports, money, medications, and our inspirational bracelets; B~Strong in support of my friend Bobbette Clapsaddle who is fighting breast cancer and inspires me when I am challenged; Fight Against Violence in memory of our friend Adam who followed his dream panning for gold before his life was taken by violence, and Seabands to help us with motion sickness.  Dave struggled with whether or not to bring the rather large whisker pole.  I voted "yes"; we brought it.  Long drive ahead...I do love Lake MI and Esky (Escanaba).

We arrived in Esky late afternoon.  Dave brought me to the dock so see Mystic in the water.  We unloaded the truck and then went for a run along the harbor.  It's beautiful in Escanaba.  The waterfront park has a great running/biking path.  We enjoyed it.  Then we slept, on the boat, comfortable; we swayed and rocked to sleep.  Dave chose the wide port berth.  When the table is lowered it becomes a double bed.  We stacked the cabin cushions with the cockpit cushions and created quite the comfy sleeping space.  Excitement was building!

Vinette Boat Works Waterfront
 
Musings:  I lie in our bunk with thoughts running through my head...Sheet ~ line leading from foresail and boom, controls sail back and forth. Halyard ~ raises main or foresail. Vocabulary words!  Dave knows what everything is called. I know what most things look like and, most of the time, I know what they do.

Sunset at Sand Point Lighthouse ~ Escanaba, MI