A Week in the Apostles ~ Day 7 Cornucopia to Knife River

After a beautiful sunset in Cornucopia, we settled in for the night. Saturday we would head back across the big lake to Knife River. The forecast called for thunder storms.

Sunset off of Cornucopia Bay

We rose early, took showers, then readied Mystic for the trip. Cigano headed out before us. We followed right behind, at around 11:30. The crossing would take about 5 hours. As soon as we slipped into the bay, we could feel the wind and see the thunderstorms building west of us. We raised our sails and pointed Mystic westward. The wind was fluky causing us to have trouble keeping the sails full. The lake became choppy. We started motor sailing which turned out to be helpful. It was a relief to see Knife River come into view through the haze. We managed to avoid the thunderstorms but this was a rough crossing!

Cigano heading out to Sand Island

The Minnesota side of Lake Superior is colder than the Wisconsin side.  The chill remained with us aboard Mystic Saturday evening. We drove to Two Harbors for dinner at the Earthwood Inn. We had whitefish, our favorite dish and cold beer. Sunday morning we headed out for a nice 12 mile run along scenic 61. We found ourselves smack dab in the middle of the biking portion of a triathlon and we were in the way. Shortening our run to 6 miles, we returned to the boat and tidied up before heading south to Stillwater; another sailing adventure on the books.

Leaving Siskiwit Bay Marina

Sea Gull Jetty ~ Cornucopia, WI

Earthwood Inn, Two Harbors, MN

Voyageur Pierre

A week in the Apostles ~ Day 6 Madeline Island to Cornucopia

Today's journey was a beautiful 35 mile sail from Madeline Island to Cornucopia, also known as "Corny". We left our anchorage and headed west toward Sand Island. A huge sailboat was floating between us and Sand Island off of Lighthouse point. The crazy captain came within 50 to 75 feet of the rocks at the base of the island. We watched in awe as a dinghy was launched and six people left the sailboat and rowed to shore. The captain pulled away safely but stood with both hands on his iPad taking photos of his friends instead of steering the boat. It looked like, maybe, he'd done this before.

Captain Dave at the helm

Sailboat off of Sand Island Light

We rounded the South side of Sand Island, past Eagle Island and the wind shifted to the northwest. We were still doing 5-6 knots but the waves were building. We furled the jib and motor sailed toward the caves at Corny.

It was too rough to stop at Meyers Beach to anchor. There were many people kayaking the caves but we decided to make our way to the marina. The wind was howling as we approached Cornucopia Bay so we dropped the main before passing the breakwater. We tied up at the gas dock where a line of men were sitting in chairs in the shade, watching the day pass.

Cornucopia Caves

Cornucopia Caves

Mary Beth and Dave run the Siskiwit Bay Marina. It is a quaint little place with a lot of character. Our friends, Yolanda and Scott Moody, stopped here on their adventures. Yolanda asked me to look for a specific long sleeve shirt which she wanted but had not purchased on her visit. We paid for dockage and looked at the store's goods. There were two shirts remaining, a size medium blue and a size large pink. I wasn't sure what size to get so I called Yolanda on the store phone. It was so nice hearing her voice and we giggled and chatted for a moment. For Yolanda, it would be the medium blue.

Siskiwit Bay Marina, Cornucopia, WI

 

Our slip was across from the gas dock. Navigating would be difficult in the northwest wind. As we maneuvered into the tight space, we had to be mindful of the boat on our port side named Cigano. We managed to get Mystic in the slip with just a slight smudge to her starboard topsides. Dave, the owner of Cigano, helped us tie off. He'ss from Minnetonka and has kept his boat at Knife River for many years. He moved to Cornucopia because it was their usual destination. It made sense to make it their home. Minnetonka has a beautiful lake but Dave did not enjoy sailing there due to the abundance of power boating on the lake. Dave asked if he could give us a tip on docking Mystic. He suggested we put a cleat at the center of our jib sheet track. You attach a dock line here. The line handler takes the line to the dock and ties off here, at the center of the boat. The captain steers and keeps the engine in forward. With the line taught, the boat will move into the slip and tuck in to the dock. This eliminates the problem of keeping the bow or stern from drifting away during a windy dockage. It works like a charm.

Cornucopia Sights

Mystic docked next to Cigano ~ Siskiwit Bay Marina

A week in the Apostles ~ Day 5 Bayfield, WI to Stockton Island

It was a beautiful morning in Bayfield. We went on a fabulous 5.5 mile run along the gorgeous Brownstone Trail that goes through the woods over an old train bed. We ran between ravines and over bridges from Bayfield to Pike Bay Marina then back. It was our best run in a long time. A home owner along the trail had built a walking bridge on his property for trail users. His yard was landscaped with lovely gardens. We chatted with a couple who were enjoying the view; acknowledging how lucky we are to be here.

Brownstone Hiking Trail

Bayfield, WI

After our run, we took a quick shower, walked to the store for provisions, filled the water tanks, emptied the head and topped off the fuel. Our plan was to head for Stockton Island. We were leaving the breakwater right as a car ferry was leaving the city dock. We motored behind the ferry then raised our main and sailed along in gentle winds at about 4 knots.

Sailboat under full sail near Bayfield

Dave decided we needed a boost as everyone around us had full sails up, so we raised the jib. The day was perfect with 10-15 mph winds. Mystic heeled at 10 degrees. Dan Branson, at Vinette Boatworks, told us that Mystic's sweet spot is 20 degrees. I'm not sure I would find that so sweet!

As we passed Hermit Island we were opened up to the big lake from the west. The winds became fluky so we trimmed the jib. We had to motor sail to make our way between Hermit and Stockton Islands. We dropped anchor on the Southwest shore of Quarry Bay. The water is incredibly clear and you can see 20 feet or more to the bottom. We lowered the kayaks and headed for Presque Isle Bay but quickly realized the conditions were too rough so we turned back. It was hard to control the kayaks in the wind and rolling waves. We decided to head for the shoreline. It is rocky and not particularly attractive but we thought we might wait out the choppy conditions and go on a hike. As we approached shore, we could see many kayaks in the sand. 

Two young men smoking pipes walked toward us and asked where we came from. We pointed to Mystic. They were kayak guides, college kids working for the summer; leading an experience kayak group. We chatted a bit about our adventures then moved over to the dock. We left the kayaks on shore before setting off to explore the island. We went about two miles deep into the woods before turning back for Quarry Bay. We'd been here years ago aboard our 23 foot sailboat, Keewatin. That trip was a family vacation with the kids. Stockton Island looked pretty much as we remembered it. The paddle back to Mystic was very choppy with a strong south wind.

There was no way we could stay put in this wind so we raised the anchor and headed to the north end of Madeline Island seeking shelter. We anchored in 10 feet of water with a perfect sandy bottom.

Soon after the sun set, the most beautiful orange moon peeked over the horizon. I tried to take photos but the movement of the boat made that difficult. Our day was magnificent from sunrise to sunset, and then to moon rise! We listened to the loons lonely call and watched the glow of a campfire on the beach while a glorious moon rose above us. We are completely at peace. If only, there were stars and northern lights!!!

A week in the Apostles ~ Day 4 Raspberry Island to Bayfield

We lifted anchor soon after sunrise and pulled away from Raspberry Bay Harbor at the same time as two other boats that had been anchored with us. We are off to Bayfield. Dave raised the jib even before we left the harbor. One sailboat motored ahead of us and one tucked in behind us on our port side. We rounded the mainland under sail, on a gentle 4-5 knot run with the wind coming from the southwest. As we rounded the point and headed south down the channel, the second boat, Calipso, passed us. We sailed with Calipso just in front of us, off our port side for some time. It was a straight shot to Bayfield. Calipso's captain trimmed his jib as the wind picked up in a section of the channel that is wide open. Both Calipso and Mystic heeled over dramatically and raced with the wind. Dave tried to trim our jib but something was wrong within the drum of the roller furling. I went forward with my harness on and holding me steady and tried to release the line inside the drum. I couldn't release it, so we switched roles with me steering and Dave on the bow working the drum. He was able to free the jam. Mystic was being shoved around by the wind but settled a bit once the jib was reefed. Dave started the motor and we motor sailed the last three miles to Bayfield. We decided to stay at the marina instead of the town dock. It costs fifty five dollars a night, but we'd have amenities and get a taste of marina life in Bayfield.

Leaving Raspberry Bay Harbor for Bayfield

Calipso sliding up behind Mystic

Apostle Island Marina

Bayfield Maritime Museum

A dog named 'Woody'

Classic example of a Lake Superior Fishing Vessel

Lady Liberty at Black Hawk Marina



Bayfield Garden

Garden Art

Cute Car in Bayfield

 

Salvage

Butterfly on Thistle

We cleaned Mystic then set out to explore Bayfield. We stopped in at Morty's Pub for lunch and a cold beer. We both had whitefish, washed down with Keewanaw Brewing Widow Maker micro brew. While walking around, we found a park with a swimming beach and a rocky shore with a fishing dock nearby.  Folks were swimming off the rocks near the dock, ignoring the signs that said no swimming allowed. We ended up swimming off the rocks as well just to cool off. The water was crispy cold but it was very hot so it felt great. After our refreshing dip, we relaxed on the rocks with our feet in the water.

We returned to Mystic and realized it was too hot to sit on the boat so we went back into town to look for ice cream. The local candy store doubles as an ice cream shop. It is very popular. We walked around, exploring a bit, then took a break on a park bench across from the Village Inn where we could listen to the classic oldies band playing on their patio. Dave walked to the grocery store to grab cold beer for the boat, selecting Mud Puppy Porter by Central Waters Microbrewery out of Amherst, Wisconsin. The six pack of bottles fit perfectly in his backpack. We decided to grab a Summit at the second floor patio bar of the Village Inn. It overlooks the harbor of Bayfield. We meandered back to the marina at sunset after a busy day filled with exploring, enjoying good food and a nice cool dip. We retired early, expecting to go on a run in the morning before leaving Bayfield behind for the islands.

View of Apostle Island Marina from the Village Inn

Apostle Island Marina

Mystic ~ Bayfield, WI

Mystic ~ Apostle Island Marina

Mystic ~ Bayfield WI

Apostle Island Marina Dock

Moon Rise over Bayfield



A week in the Apostles ~ Day 3 Sand Island to Little Sand Bay

We rose early and prepared Mystic to sail to Little Sand Bay, just across from our anchorage at Sand Island. Little Sand Bay is on the Wisconsin mainland and is the site of the Apostle Islands headquarters and county campground. Our travel guide indicated that the harbor was shallow but Dave wanted to try to pull into the dock to tie off. We could see other large sailboats there so we figured we'd give it a try. We made our way up the channel, slowly. I was very apprehensive. People on docked sailboats came on deck and offered assistance, guided us, and warned us that it was indeed shallow. We hit bottom and swung toward the docked vessels. We were able to fend off and keep Mystic from drifting by holding onto one of the other boats which happened to be from our hometown Stillwater. Although the captain offered to give us his spot in an hour, we decided to get out while we could.  We settled for anchoring in the bay off the sandy beach just beyond the harbor.

Anchorage off of Little Sand Bay, WI

We needed to get ashore to get rid of garbage and load up with ice and water. We also wanted to go for a run. We kayaked ashore and stopped by the sailboats on the dock to thank them for their help. The couple from Stillwater, Dick and Michelle Bailey, live on North 3rd Street, not far from us. They are experienced sailors and very friendly. Michelle told us that they only sail, never motor. She described their trip from Washburn to Sand Island saying she tried to get their tartan 31 to 7 knots. Her eyes twinkled as she described how much fun she had screaming along at 6.9 knots. Michelle said she'd seen our smaller sailboat, Keewatin, lit up for Christmas in our driveway back hone. We thanked them then headed off on a hot, hilly run.

Amazing braided rope at Little Sand Bay

Historic Hokenson Brothers
Commercial Fishery Little Sand Bay

Anchor from the shipwreck Sevona
at Little Sand Bay, WI

Russell, Wisconsin has a heat advisory for the entire week and it is hot. Our first 1.75 miles running were uphill. We ran out for 2.75 miles then turned back. The return trip was fast and easy but it was getting even hotter. When we returned to the beach we noticed a sign indicating that we should not have our kayaks on the beach. We apologized to the beach ladies who said they didn't mind the kayaks at all.

Back aboard Mystic, we put ice in the coolers and enjoyed a nice lunch before heading off to Raspberry Island. We raised the sails but found the winds to be fluky so we motored instead. Just as we approached Raspberry Island the engine warning alarm went off telling us it was over heating! Dave shut her down and we raised the foresail. Dave was pretty sure it was the water pump impeller. Like most things, he is confident that he can fix it. We had no other choice at the moment except to allow the engine to cool and then restart it to see if the alarm continued.

After about a half hour we restarted the engine and made our way to the sand spit off of Raspberry Island, east of the lighthouse where we anchored with other boats. With crossed fingers, we waited for the alarm to blare again but it remained silent. Later Dave would surmise that the waves were raising the stern out of the water which prevented water from entering the intake and getting to the engine. Without water to cool it, the engine overheated. 

Once we were settled on anchor, we kayaked ashore and hiked to the Raspberry Island Lighthouse. This lighthouse is one of the favorites of visitors of the Apostles. Some say it is because of the beautiful gardens found on the grounds. It is a perfect spot to have a picnic. We took photos of the lighthouse from the shore and docks. We'd hoped to climb to the top of the light but there was a long line and we were told that we would have to wait for a boatload of tourists arriving by ferry. Instead, we made our way back through the forest to the bay we were anchored in. We met a young couple with two small children, travelling on a 32 foot Hunter. We would see them several times during the week, passing us under sail. They told us that the lighthouse tour took over a half hour and the building was stifling hot. It was a good call to decline the tour on this day. There will be other opportunities in our future.

 

Clintonia on Raspberry Island

First view of Raspberry Island Light
from the trailhead

Raspberry Island Light

Raspberry Island Light

Raspberry Island Light

Raspberry Island Light

Raspberry Island Light

Raspberry Island Light

Raspberry Island Light

View of Lake Superior from
Raspberry Island

Raspberry Island Light

Raspberry Island Light

We sailed over to Raspberry Bay which is off of the mainland, (not off of Raspberry Island). We stayed in this bay when we were bringing Mystic back from Michigan in June. It is a very sheltered anchorage. As soon as we settled, we dropped the kayaks and headed for the East side of the bay to explore. The shoreline is rocky with small caves, fun to explore but nothing like those on Sand Island. The highlight was seeing an eagle soar over our heads then land in a high branch. He looked down at us with his keen eye as if to say, "Move on..." As we passed by on our return trip, he was perched on the branch with his magnificent wings spread out. We are pretty sure he was cooling himself.

Our anchorage at Raspberry Bay Harbor

I'm sure we looked funny walking our kayaks along the shore looking for rocks and glass. I found only one piece of glass on this shoreline. We made our way around to the point just off of where Mystic was anchored. The Raspberry River feeds this bay from the south. We paddled up and explored the swampy, buggy waterway. There were yellow lily pads and small fish dancing at the surface of the water, gobbling up the gazillion flying ants that were everywhere. We turned to head back to Mystic, stowed the kayaks and settled in with a cold beer. We are sunburned, sore from the run and kayaking, but we're happy. There is a huge full moon rising over us!

I am beginning to notice how bruised and battered my legs and feet are. I keep hitting my shins and calves on the cockpit hatch latches and stepping on deck hardware. Dave lays a towel over the latches as a reminder to us that they are there. It is incredibly quiet here. There are only 4 boats anchored with us.  The water in the bay is calm but we can hear voices from other boats. The bugs are the only negative aspect. They are everywhere. The setting sun is bouncing off of Raspberry light. It must have been lonely back in the days when the lighthouse keepers were here. I'm sure, on days like today, they'd take a moment to look out at the sunset and breath deep in the quiet calm. This is a beautiful place to be.

Sunset in the Apostles ~ Raspberry Bay Harbor