Thursday, October 10, 2024

Hi Seas Marina Oconto Wisconsin

We made the huge decision to move Mystic to a new marina for winter storage this fall. We were lucky to find space at Hi Seas, a small marina in Oconto, Wisconsin. 

We left Nestegg, late in September, with friends Dan and Nena Mooney on board, prepared to sail the 27 miles south. The bay was dead calm with no wind so we motored under a beautiful blue sky, dotted with late summer clouds. It was an easy 4.5 hour cruise.

When we arrived at Hi Seas, Andy was there to catch our lines. We could hear voices all around us from boaters enjoying the unseasonably warm temps on their vessels nearby. The vibe was very different from where we'd come from. 

We got started on dismantling our summer home right away with removal of the sails. We carried them to a grassy area where we flaked and folded them for storage. After dinner we settled in for the night. We were all snuggled in with our curtains drawn when I happened to peek out our porthole and was awed by a black sky dazzled with a gazillion stars. 



The Oconto Harvest Festival was on Saturday. We walked into town and found the festival overflowing with attendees. Main Street was shut down and the roadside was filled with vendors who enticed patrons with a variety of food and crafts. In addition, there was a antique car show. Several people from the marina were at the festival. We gathered at the Garage Bar outdoor patio to chat in the shade of the tent. We found we had a lot in common. Many of the slip holders have been at Hi Seas for decades. One couple told us they were on their third boat and third marina owner over the 26 years they had docked at Hi Seas. 

We all left downtown to attend the a chili cook off at Hi Seas. Our new friends invited us to attend. Everyone worked together to put a huge meal on the table. We had 10 different chili options and a huge turnout of boaters. It was a great opportunity to meet other folks from the Marina. After dinner, we joined boaters on the outside docks called the peninsula. We had a great time sharing boat stories around the fire pit.

We were surprised to learn that sand hill cranes stop in Oconto as a staging point for migration. The Oconto Marsh and Rush Point Refuge is across the street from the marina. We heard the flocks coming in from late afternoon until past midnight. They settled down for the night in the marsh and the swampy area across the river from Hi Seas. They were gone each morning, making room for the next batch. The refuge covers over 800 acres and offers a 2.8 mile walking path. It is rich with bird life and a breading ground for the yellow headed black bird. We can't wait to hike there with camera in tow. Unfortunately, it is hunting season making it unsafe in the fall.

We left Oconto on Sunday to bring a full load of boat gear home. Bret contacted us to schedule our haul out for Friday, September 4th. We arrived on Thursday night to prepare Mystic. The process was very different at Hi Seas compared to our past experiences. Their travel lift is powerful enough to life up to 60,000 pounds but it is short. Our backstay would connect with the frame of the lift so it had to be removed. Our deck stepped mast requires a forestay, backstay and two mid stays on each side to remain upright. To make up for the lack of a backstay, we ran our main and jib halyards, one on each side of our boat, to our traveler to stabilize the mast while we were being hauled out. Mystic was lifted out stern first. It had always been bow first in the past. Things went smoothly. In fact it didn't feel different at all.

Mystic with backstay in place

On the travel lift

Backstay removed, halyards attached
at traveler

Coming out of the well

Setting her on jack stands

It takes about 16 hours to winterize Mystic. This entails adding antifreeze to the engine, the water system and the head. Water tanks and bilge must be emptied and cleaned. We replace our halyards with sacrificial ropes. Our anchors are removed and stored. Most of the contents in Mystic's hatches are removed, especially anything made of fabric. All through hulls are closed. Our batteries and shore power are removed. Our final task is securing the winter cover. Unfortunately, Green Bay was under a gale warning with high winds expected all day and even higher winds overnight. Putting the cover on in windy conditions is difficult but we managed to get it done before bed time. We left the back entry open but tied down tight overnight. As predicted, the wind picked up and woke us around midnight with 50 mph gusts that felt like we were going to be swept off our jack stands! It finally tapered down around 2:00 am. No one at the marina got much sleep!

In the morning we spent a couple hours unloading our travel bags and bedding. We finished tying down the cover and bid Mystic a mild winter. We headed out for the five hour drive home for the last time this year. New adventures in 2025 will begin in Oconto. We've navigated a lot of change this fall. Sometimes change is good!

Tuesday, October 1, 2024

Changing Scenery - Moving Mystic

The summer of 2024 turned out to be a different kind of year for us. Our buddy boat friends, Dan and Nena Mooney, who are also our partners in adventure, did not launch their boat Shoo Fly this year. Family responsibilities kept them on the hard, sitting directly behind our slip, where each day we were reminded that they weren't next to us on the dock.

Shoo Fly in our line of sight

Dan & Nena visiting Shoo Fly

Last year, we cruised the panhandle of Green Bay together on a fabulous eight day sail, getting our appetite wet for the longer trips and introducing Team Mooney to the excitement of cruising. We didn't take any long trips this year but we got in a lot of amazing sailing off of Menominee, Michigan with other boats from our marina. We danced beside Ric and Kathy aboard SuziQ, John and Jen took us for an evening sail aboard De Cabin, we jetted along the Menominee River in Jeff's 25 hp skiff Carolina II and followed 79 year old Paul on his solo adventures aboard his C&C Prima.

SuziQ passing us on Green Bay

We've been at Nestegg for three years now, arriving in 2021 after completing our America's Great Loop adventure. Things have changed greatly during our stay. The marina sold two years ago and has slid into a steady decline in spite of the increase in prices last fall, this spring and now again this fall. In addition, we've had issues with homeless folks boarding boats, thefts, and overall trespassing along the docks. Lack of security is a huge issue. It doesn't feel the same.

Several folks left Nestegg this summer due to the reasons above. One friend, Jeff on the Shannon Departure II, received a $1,000 increase in his slip fee. He gave up his deposit, (the marina puts in small writing that it is non-refundable but did not warn him of the increase before he put money down.) Jeff moved 25 miles south to a tiny mom and pop marina called Hi Seas. The price dropped for him by half. 

Departure II under sail

In addition to the culture and cost changes at Nestegg, we are not huge fans of the noise from highway 41. The sound of ambulances crossing the bridge and trains honking their way through town is nearly constant. The ship builder just south of us smells terrible under an easterly wind and our boats get covered with welding and grinding dust. We tolerated all of this because the cost to stay was lower than any marina around. Not anymore though! Nestegg is charging top dollar for a bottom dollar experience. Frankly, it's a bit insulting! 

Ship builder just south of our dock

After a couple unpleasant incidents on our dock, we decided to take a drive down to see Jeff and check out Hi Seas. We met Bret who owns the marina with his wife. The yard was clean and organized with boats already on the hard lined up neatly on jack stands. We were on a cradle at Nestegg, which raised our boat an extra three feet off the ground. It is quite unnerving to add Mystic's winter cover from 12 feet up with no safety net below us. At Hi Seas we'd be on jack stands with a surprising cut in cost of 50% for winter storage!

Change is hard. We've made friends at Nestegg. We will miss our dock neighbors and the late night gatherings around the fire pit. Next year, we hope to finally cruise again. This is just the beginning for us. It is the nudge we needed to kick start our plans for next year. 

Sunset on Menominee River


Wednesday, May 22, 2024

Grand Canyon Rim To Rim Hike

We trained as best we could in Minnesota for six months prior to our Grand Canyon Rim to Rim hike on May 22nd. We were blessed with a top notch support team, our friends Dan and Nena Mooney, who drove us to our north rim starting point and were waiting for us when we popped out of the south rim.

Dave, Dan Mooney,
Beth and Nena Mooney

We reserved accommodations at Kaibab Lodge near the North Rim in a cute little cabin that overlooked a peaceful meadow. After the hike, we stayed in adjoining rooms at Bright Angel Lodge, just steps off the south rim trailhead. Both were convenient for our Grand Canyon R2R hike.

We entered North Kaibab trail at 5:45 am bundled in layers to protect ourselves from the 28 degree temps. The trail was lined with pine and aspen trees. Our steep descent into the canyon was much tougher than expected. The terrain was rocky and had steps that were not uniform in height or distance between them. The path was a mixture of sand, stationary and loose rock. We began taking the steps sideways to alleviate the stress on our joints as we wound our way down one switch back after another. 

Temp at the start of our hike
Photo by Nena Mooney

Much of North Kaibab Trail consisted of drop offs next to the three foot wide path. The trail is carved into the cliffs with rock on one side and a deep drop off on the other. It was terrifying looking over the edge but the views around us were breathtaking. At times I had to concentrate on my feet to maintain my composure and battle my fear of heights. 



Thumbs up Video


Hikers at Coconino Overlook 


Morning sunrise in the canyon

Supai Tunnel

Supai Tunnel

Hiking along Redwall Limestone




First view of Redwall Bridge


Challenging footing

Steep drop offs along the trail

Uneven stairs



Redwall Bridge
3,274 feet below the trailhead






Roaring Springs waterfall came into view across the canyon from us. You can't miss this amazing cascade that provides all the drinking water to the canyon. The falls gush out of the cliffs and the millions of gallons of water flow down to create Bright Angel Creek which feeds the Colorado River. It is truly a magnificent view.

Roaring Springs Falls Video




Our surrounding view at Roaring Falls


We arrived at the Manzanita rest stop in three hours, and took a refreshing half hour break, eating hard boiled eggs washed down with electrolytes. There is a chalk board with messages left by hikers and a posting of trail information. Heading across the bottom of the canyon, we walked along the beautiful Bright Angel Creek where cacti were blooming beside the trail and yucca plants soared above us.


Information and message board




Bright Angel Creek Video


Bright Angel Creek

Bright Angel Creek

Crossing the bridge just south of Manzanita

Bright Angel Creek

Waterfall Along Bright Angel Creek

Bright Angel Creek along trail

Roaring Bright Angel Creek Video




Yucca growing amongst the cliffs



Bright Angel Creek at
Cottonwood Campground Video


We passed Cottonwood campground and entered the box which consists of massive cliffs made of Vishnu Schist rock, the oldest rock in the canyon. The temperature was 80 degrees but would rise to 90 while we were making our way through. We had fleeting reprieves from the hot sun under the cool red rock overhangs and in the shaded curves. After crossing over many creeks by selecting stable stones to step on, we realized it was easier to walk through the water. The views were gorgeous! The box heats up quickly and can become dangerous. There is a lack of air flow and hikers are exposed to the sun for a good four miles. We could feel the importance of getting out of the box as soon as possible.

The canyon gets a little warm









Bridge leading into the box
















Crossing a creek Video


We arrived at Phantom Ranch around 1:30 where we sat in the shade and drank the famous refreshing lemonade with a free refill. The six hour down hill North Kaibab trail took a toll on my toes. I nursed my blisters while we rested. A woman offered me supplies but I'd packed a small first aid kit. I changed my socks before we continued on for the most challenging part of the hike, the climb out Bright Angel Trail.

Shade and Lemonade

We started the hike out around 2:00. The mules were munching oats in their coral when we passed. We crossed the silver bridge over the fast flowing and amazingly beautiful Colorado river. I thought it would be scary but compared to all we'd been through, it was exhilarating. Despite being a suspension bridge, it didn't have any movement like others we'd experienced. A helicopter carried supplies into the ranch all afternoon, soaring overhead then hovering at the work site near Phantom Ranch. 

We reached the corkscrew and endured the steep switchbacks that make you feel like you are going nowhere fast. Havasu Gardens is about 4.5 miles from the south trailhead. We passed through around 6:00 pm, later than we planned. Dave captured a cell phone signal and was able to send a message to Dan and Nena at the south rim to update them with our ETA. We entered the final switch backs and slowly climbed up endless uneven stairs. Keeping my eyes on my feet and the trail, I was barely impressed by the sight of a scorpion resting along my path.





Crossing the Silver Bridge

Colorado River


The Corkscrew

Havasupai Garden View



The sun slipped behind the rim of the canyon around 8:00 pm. We continued under headlights for the final hour of our hike. Instinct kept us away from the black abyss that signaled the steep drop offs. We could see other hikers ahead and behind us now, their headlamps bobbing with their gate. We both got sick during the last three miles up Bright Angel Trail. Our fingers were swollen and blue. Fluid retention went all the way into the back of our hands past our knuckles. Later we would realize that we'd made a critical error. We should have been on a schedule for consuming hydration and food. Our bodies were being pushed to the limit by the intensity of our physical exertion. We'd lost our appetites and our judgement had became diminished. In addition, we were drinking too much plain water. What we needed was electrolytes and protein but we were more focused on getting out of the canyon. 

Sun setting over the South Rim

It felt like we'd never reach the rim but we kept moving one step at a time, not stopping for breaks. The steps leading out of Bright Angel Trail were not standard height. Dave was in the lead and would turn to grab my hand and drag me up the highest of them. 

We passed a group of young men who told us we were close to the rim. We just shrugged at them and kept moving one foot in front of the other. It turned out they were at Bright Angel Archway, very close to the trailhead, but we couldn't see it in the dark. We could hear yelling from the top though. It was a gal named Denise calling to her husband Walter. She cheered for us as we popped out of the trail.

Someone asked who was picking us up. We were disoriented and exhausted, but said we had friends who were meeting us. Nena came out of the darkness and said, "yes you do have friends, we are here for you". It was 9:00 pm. We completed the grueling conditions of this challenging hike in 15 hours and 15 minutes. We were in awe of nature's gifts and proud of our fortitude during our most difficult moments. This hike was one of the toughest things we'd ever accomplished! We each lost seven pounds in the Canyon and I also lost seven toenails!

We've been asked if we'd do it again. On the day of our hike the answer would have been a resounding NO! Like other challenges we've taken on, with time, the struggle has been replaced with positive memories. The canyon is remarkably beautiful! We'd love to go back! Next time, we'll take it slower, maybe camp and spend more time down in the Canyon. 

We survived North Kaibab
To Bright Angel