Ashtabula Ohio - Harbor of Refuge

We were up and off the Erie docks by 7:15. A whole bunch of fishing boats left Presque Isle Bay with us. The sky was dark and cloudy; the lake was rough with short low rollers hitting us head on. The wind and waves were uncomfortable but improved and then get worse once again. Paige and Jim aboard Leg-A-Sea passed us off shore. Paige sent me a message through the Nebo app, telling me that they were taking a beating off shore. We were not having an easy go of it either! We'd planned to stop at Geneva but a storm formed from the south. The wind switched to the NW bringing cold air and big short waves. We decided we'd had enough and ditched at Ashtabula. There is a free dock next to the lift bridge where we could wait out the weather. 

Views leaving Erie Bay

Perry's Landing Tower

Liberty Park, Erie

Highmark Amphitheater
Port of Erie

Stormy skies passing Bicentenial tower, Erie

 Presque Isle North Pier Light

Osimo under ominous clouds

Presque Isle "Flash" Light

Conneaut West Breakwater Light

Fleet of Fishing Kayaks

Wind and waves on our nose - Lake Erie

As expected, the weather was better off the lake. Once we entered the long Ashtabula jetty things improved. Osimo was in the lead and slowly lead us toward town. Bob was sending us updates on the VHF, telling us he could see the free dock up ahead. There were a lot of boats in the channel with us that seemed to be queuing up. We realized they were waiting for the Ashtabula lift bridge to open. We slipped past the line and caught a spot on the free docks where Osimo was already settled. Finally, we could catch our breath. Downtown Ashtabula was hot and sticky!

Ashtabula Lighthouse

Ashtabula River Arch Bridge

Boats waiting in line under the arched bridge

Good old boat entering Ashtabula

Beautiful Ketch

S/V Altair

Boats in line to pass under Ashtabula Bridge

Boats in line coming in off the lake

Mystic at Ashtabula Free Dock

Several boats stopped at the free dock to use the pump out; others tied off and went into town. One boat came in and appeared to be having trouble docking. We walked over to grab their lines. It was quickly apparent that this was a "new to them" boat and the owner was docking for the first time. We waited patiently while a friend onboard coached the Captain in and instructed a young girl and a woman on how to handle the lines. We chatted a while before the family walked into town for lunch. Later, they returned and headed out into the Ashtabula River, thanking us for helping them.

Osimo, Mystic and the boat we helped (unnamed)

We'd hoped to stay the night and avoid going back out into the harsh conditions on the lake but noticed the sign that said "NO OVERNIGHT DOCKAGE". The free dock was meant for boaters to visit downtown. Bob started making calls; first to the local non-emergency police number. He was told to call the Coast Guard. Lucky for us, Bob is retired from Coast Guard. When he called, he told them we'd come in off the lake seeking a harbor of refuge. They said we could stay; agreeing that we were safer at the docks than out on the lake. They were well aware that boaters ignored the sign and stayed overnight. It only became a problem if you caused trouble or didn't depart in the morning. Squatters are not allowed in Ashtabula!

Sign at the Ashtabula Free Dock
No Overnight Docking

Dave exploring the Ashtabula River Park

Osimo at Ashtabula

Hoops Line & Sinker Fishing Charter
This is a big fishing port

We walked into town to explore and found an ice cream shop with a patio in the back. It was so hot that we sat inside and enjoyed the air conditioning. Ashtabula is a tourist town, popular for it's many festivals. There was a small grassy courtyard between two buildings on the main street. Folks were relaxing on the lawn and listening to live music. We walked over the lift bridge to view our boats from the other side of the river. The locals were very friendly. We met many people fishing or just resting on the park benches next to our boat. Everyone wanted to hear our story and tell us theirs. One gal sat beside Mystic and told me all about the town including the history and the local gossip. She was waiting for the bridge to light up. We didn't know that the bridge lit up at night. Of course, I had to wait until dark to see it too. I sat watching that bridge for a long time, fascinated by the colors changing as the sky darkened! I took a lot of photos!

View of free dock from the east side of the river

The Ashtabula Liftbridge Lights

The Ashtabula bridge lifts on the half hour. At each opening, a long line of boats were waiting to pass. In spite of this, it was quiet at the free docks. The locals respected the no wake zone at all times. Heavy rains arrived at dusk. It didn't scare away the folks fishing off the pier. When Dave got up at 3:00 am to check our lines he found they were still sitting in the same spot, waiting for a bite. 

Boats going under the Ashtabula Bridge

We really enjoyed this unplanned stop. We got lucky being able to stay in Ashtabula. It would be fun to return during one of the festivals. This town was an unexpected treat!