Cruising The Oregon Coast

After our visit to the Redwoods we focused on getting to Oregon via the Rte 101 Pacific Coast Scenic Byway. This is Dave's first visit to Oregon. Once he visits Oregon and Washington State he'll catch up to me in having visited all 48 continental United States. We are excited to see what the Oregon Coast has to offer with it's gorgeous rocky shore, rough waters and lighthouses dotting the coastline.

We made it just over the border to the town of Brookings and checked in at our hotel then packed up snacks and a bottle of wine and headed to the beach. It was populated with dog walkers and a group of college kids playing catch, as well as beachcombers gathering treasures. We sat on a log and enjoyed the sunset, laughing a lot. Dave built a cairn which was blown over by the wind. It was a lovely evening after a very long and challenging drive through the mountains of Northern California.

Tsunami warnings along the coast

Brookings Beach

Sunset on Brookings Beach

Driftwood Debris

Dave's Cairn

Brookings Beach Video

Our goal was to visit 11 lighthouses in one day. We only made it to four. The first, Pelican Light, was right in Brookings. It is a private home now. The light tower blends in with the oceanfront neighborhood. 

Pelican Light, Brookings Oregon

We headed out of town on Route 101. The roads are narrow and wind up and down the steep and rocky shoreline making for snake-like switchbacks. There are pull outs that slow drivers are required to use to allow traffic to pass. The shoreline is rugged and unforgiving. The sand is grey but surprisingly, very fine.

Route 101 becomes the Cape Ferrelo Loop, which is also called the Samuel H Boardman Scenic Roadway. It runs from Brookings to Gold Beach. We are in awe of the raw beauty of the Pacific Ocean. Each corner we take brings another breathtaking view. We want to stop and explore the many overlooks but we just don't have the time. 

We stopped in Gold Beach for coffee and discovered the Mary D Hume Brigantine sailing ship sitting along the Rogue River. She was built in 1881 and recorded 97 years of active sea service. Now she is an aging icon of a different era. The beautiful shoreline around her is covered in moss and sea grass that sways in the breeze. The Patterson Bridge can be seen up river of the Mary D Hume. It's a peaceful resting place for her to lie after long years of working the Pacific waters. This area is beautiful and reminds us of Maine. 

The Mary D Hume

The Patterson Bridge in the background

Moss and seagrass along the river

Our next stop was Port Orford where we found the cutest little coffee shop called Tasty Kate's. The enormous cinnamon buns were delicious, the coffee rich and strong. The Barrista was very friendly, chatting with us about the area and our travels.

We headed to Cape Blanco Light in Port Orford where we had to put on extra layers to walk out to the lighthouse. The wind was howling, the temps in the low 50's on the coast. It felt much like our walk along Ireland's Cliffs of Moher with dangerous winds that threatened to throw us into the ocean. We met an older woman at the light. She told us she was doing the Washington, Oregon Coast Lighthouse tour because she sailed these waters for years; cruising with her family as live aboards. She explained that each lighthouse had been so important to their safe navigation as they passed offshore. They wanted to see these beacons from the land. Her husband was not fit enough to walk out to Cape Blanco Light in the strong wind so she made the long trek on her own. We shared a lovely chat about cruising then went on our way. It was one of those moments when you meet someone of a kindred spirit and feel an instant connection. We wish we'd taken a photo together.

We drove north to Coquille River Light in Bandon Oregon. We entered the Bullards Beach State Park and drove out to the point where the lighthouse sits. Once again, it was very windy. The beach was littered with enormous driftwood log piles. This lighthouse was built in Spanish style architecture. All of the others we visited were built more like the traditional New England style. Coquille River Light was constructed in 1896. It was the last lighthouse to be built along the Oregon coast. The inlet into the Coquille River at Bandon is lined with boulders and has very rough waters. It must be a tricky entrance to navigate. In fact, the Pacific Coast ports are all a bit treacherous, with really high tides and sand bars that sit at the entrances to the rivers. Navigating these waters is not for the faint of heart!

Coquille River Light Coastline Video

We fueled up in Coos Bay at a full service gas station. We'd forgotten that you don't pump your own gas in Oregon. Cape Arago Light sits out on a point and is tough to get to. We decided not to take the long road out and back to save time. Coos Bay is a huge shipping port and a big town sometimes referred to as Coos Bay North Bend due to it's proximity to the city of North Bend. We are surprised to see sand dunes along the coast for miles after leaving Coos Bay that hide our view of the coast. We are passed by logging trucks all day. Although they are huge and loaded with logs, they manage the winding roads far better than we do.

Log truck view along the Pacific Coast

The Umpqua River Lighthouse in Reedsport is located at a Coast Guard Station in Umpqua Lighthouse State Park. There is a whale watching platform that overlooks the Pacific. Eighteen thousand Pacific grey whales migrate up the Oregon Coast to Alaska each year. Only about 200 stay in Oregon for the summer. They feed and travel within a half mile of shore making this spot a favorite for whale sightings. We did not catch a glimpse of whales on the day we visited.

Umpqua River Light

Whale watching bird

Whale Bone at Umpqua River Light

Heceta Head Lighthouse is a working light in Florence Oregon. It is the most photographed light along the Oregon Coast. We didn't stop, but captured a few photos from the roadway. The light sits 1,000 feet high on Heceta head. The 56 foot tower was first lit in 1894. Attractions include a B&B, hiking trails and gorgeous views. We'd love to return and spend some time exploring this area.

We really enjoyed this drive up the Oregon Coast. It is touted as one of the most scenic drives in the United States. We couldn't agree more! In order to fully experience the Pacific Coast we would have had to spend weeks or even a whole summer exploring. We highly recommend a visit!