Hell Gate - NYC

I couldn't sleep after the huge squall that passed over us last night; even though I knew we had to leave early to go through New York City's Hell Gate. Dave was up at 4:30, making coffee while I tried my best to eek out as many zzz's as I could get away with. He handed me my first cup of coffee at 4:45 and informed me that he'd already prepared Mystic for travel. We planned our departure from our anchorage at Atlantic Highlands for 5:15 in order to work out the timing for a safe passage through the mighty Hell Gate, a notorious, mile long section of the East River between Queens and Ward Island. This is where New York's Upper Bay, the Hudson River, and Long Island Sound merge. The waters here are fast with a strong current, and whirlpools tough enough to toss your vessel like a toy boat in a bathtub. We've spent a lot of time planning our trip through this hazardous section. We are determined to get through safely.

Army Corp of Engineers

We moved across the Atlantic Highland Bay right on time as two sailboats, one in front and one behind, joined us in the channel. It took about three hours to make it under the Veranzano Narrows Bridge. The Statue of Liberty came into view. I grab as many photos as I could as we dodged ferries, tankers and pleasure craft. The Hudson River was wildly busy.

Good morning Atlantic Highlands

Early morning ferry wake

West Bank  Light outside the Veranzano Bridge

West Bank Lighthouse

Crossing under the Veranzano into lots of traffic

Tower One peeking out of the morning haze

Slipping under the Veranzano

Lady Liberty

Statue of Liberty

We crossed behind Governors Island where the traffic lessened but the ferries moved faster, churning the water into a boiling frenzy. We found the captains to be polite and courteous in spite of all the activity. There is so much to see off of New York City. The view of Manhattan Financial District from the water is amazing. I continued to snap photos of both sides of the river as we made our way toward Hell Gate. We're traveling on a rising tide and moving quickly. It's exciting and intense!

Lower Manhattan

Ellis Island Immigration Museum

Central Terminal, New Jersey

Manhattan skyline behind Governor's Island

It took us another one and a half hours to reach Hell Gate. As we arrived at this narrow tidal passage, two other sailboats passed through with us; also heading north, one on either side of Mystic. One of the captains called us on the VHF to let us know that we had a line dragging off the stern. It was the rope that tethers our ladder to our lifeline. It hung barely below the water but we were thankful of their concern and the call! Snagging a line on our prop at Hell Gate would be a very bad thing! We passed Hell Gate quickly, riding a slack rising tide; with Mystic moving at over 10 mph.  It was a passage we spent a lot of time planning for but turned out to be anti-climactic. At Hell Gate, timing is everything!

Governors Island Barracks

Manhattan view rounding Governor's Island

Tower One

The Brooklyn Bridge

Barge traffic in Manhattan

(FDR Drive) Purple highway running along Financial District

Clipper Ship docked at Maritime Museum in Manhattan

Purple Highway under the Brooklyn Bridge

Lot's of cruising traffic on land and sea

Brooklyn, NY

Cruising under the Brooklyn Bridge

Leaving Brooklyn behind as we cruise up the East River

The Tetris Buildings

A float plane landed beside us

Float plane cruising into port

Empire State Building

Helicoptor tour of the East River

I prefer Coke but the sign is cool!

Long Island

The Chrysler Building

East River park sculpture

Roosevelt Island Smallpox Asylum Memorial

The Alice Aycock Pavilian

Queensboro Bridge

Roosevelt Island Tram

Roosevelt Island Tramway Landing

The Alice Aycock Pavilian under
the Queensboro Bridge

Roosevelt Island Lighthouse

Audubon Society Black Duck Mural

Robert F. Kennedy Bridge in front of Hell Gate Bridge

Hell Gate Bridge tower

Sailboat joins us as we pass under Hell Gate Bridge

Another sailboat joins us

Hell Gate caravan of sailboats

Leaving NYC behind at Hell Gate

Mystic FLEW through Hell Gate at 10 mph

As we left New York City behind, we passed Riker's Island prison then watched as planes took off and landed at LaGuardia Airport. City Island came into view just as Long Island Sound opened up in front of us. Beautiful homes line the shoreline to the east while the Hart Island ruins caught our attention to the west. This one mile long by 1/3 mile wide island has an interesting past. It was a training ground for US troops in 1864. Then it was the location of the Union Civil War prison camp, a psychiatric institution, a tuberculosis sanitorium, potter's field, boys reformatory, jail and drug rehab center. We noticed the gravestones lined up on the hill. 

Long Island sound is wide and deep. The boat traffic lessened as we moved north. We'd been traveling for eight hours and needed a plan for stopping for the night. We decided to stop at Oyster Bay, a hamlet on the north shore of Long Island. Billy Joel once lived here. After our very long day, it sounded like a lovely place to anchor.

Riker's Island

Laguardia Airport

Busy in the skies

SUNY Maritime College

Stepping Stones Lighthouse

Hart Island

Hart Island cemetary markers dot the fields

Sailboat passing Execution Rocks Lighthoue

Execution Rocks Lighthouse

The wind was in our face and increased throughout the day. White caps began to form around us. We crossed the wide channel leading into Oyster Bay in a slow, gentle arch; then made our way around the mid-channel marker that protected us from a shoal. As we turned south we saw the markers that would lead us up into the sheltered Bay. We approached the marina dock hoping to fuel up but there was no room. The attendant told us to wait in the channel. After sitting for almost an hour we decided to pass on fuel. The sky was filling with storm clouds so we needed to get settled on the hook. The bay is lovely with huge beautiful homes. We dropped our anchor in the southwest corner  just outside the mooring field. We knew we'd be safe here.

Oyster Bay anchorage

Incoming squall

Storms are coming

After dinner we sat in the cockpit to watch the light show. The storms finally caught us around 6:30. As I gazed across the mooring field I watched as every single boat suddenly moved forward in unison then spun as one as the preceding wind from the approaching squall caught them. Thunder and lightening came quickly and flashed for some time. We shut Mystic up tight against the wind and rain, and went to bed early. As usually happens, Dave slept soundly while I sat up unable to take my eyes off the sky.

Visitors on the hook

Looking for a handout

The thunder finally ended but it rained all night. We woke to chilly temps and overcast skies. The forecast called for more rain all day; Long Island Sound would be rough in this weather so we decided to stay put. We are eager to get to Connecticut but content, tucked into this little protected hamlet for a second night. Our 2019 cruising season is coming to an end. We'll arrive at our destination in a day or two. There is no need to be in a hurry!