Oriental North Carolina Free Dock

We were up early at Towne Creek Marina planning to fill up on fuel before leaving. The dock master let us know the fuel dock was full but said he would call us on the VHF when there was room for us to move there. We used the waiting time to catch up on projects. The sun awning was torn when one of the poles ripped through the Sunbrella fabric. I patched the hole and Dave trimmed the pole hoping that it would sit in the slot better. There were other sewing projects that needed tending to. I took care of them as well.

While we were fueling, the dock master confirmed that we could get through Towne Creek Slough, a shallow shortcut back to the ICW. We went through there on S/V Veritas last summer but Mystic's draft is about a foot deeper Veritas. In addition, it was low tide so we were unsure of taking the same course. We decided to take a chance and very cautiously followed Bob's blue line through the slough hoping that if Bob could get through, we could too! We were relieved to find 8 feet or more of water all along the 2.7 mile stretch.

We spent the rest of the day on Adams Creek which is more like a river. It was easy going except for occasional low spots that always cause us stress. The area must have been hit hard by the storms last year. There were a lot of signs of storm damage.

Destroyed Docks

Miss Melissa has seen better days

Cabin along Adam's Creek

So many sad endings

We made it to the Neuse River with big winds racing to catch us. All hell broke loose once we got out into the middle of the river. Mystic was rocking and rolling in waves that attempted to swamp her. We hadn't stowed everything below before leaving the dock, and we could hear things flying around the cabin. There was a huge mess to clean; coffee grounds that sprayed over our carpet and damp rid that soared across the counter then spilled all over our cabin floors was the worst. As a rule, we make sure everything is put away or set in the sink before we leave the dock. It was a first for us to forget and we paid dearly for the oversight. It won't happen again!

We finally made it to Oriental, a tiny town with a population of around 900. There are two free docks in the small harbor. One was full but the other had tons of room. We maneuvered Mystic into an open slip and settled her in, then walked into town to explore. Oriental has an area of 1.4 square miles so our walk was short. The Marina and Inn Toucan Tiki Bar is right behind the docks. We grabbed a seat on the patio and enjoyed a cold beer while using their WIFI to check our email. Mystic was visible from the patio. 

Historic little building next to free docks

Mystic tucked into Oriental free dock

The Inland Waterway Treasure Company

Toucan Grill

Good Morning Oriental

 

Someone added this line a LONG time ago

Mystic at Oriental Free Dock

Oriental is a sleepy little town, known as the Sailing Capital of North Carolina. The harbor is full of BIG fishing boats that leave their running lights on all night. The harbor is lit up like a Christmas tree. As we sat in the cockpit admiring the lights, a sailboat took the last slip at the dock. On board was a family of six including a mom and dad with three little ones, plus grandpa. It appeared to be tight quarters but they were a happy bunch. 

After dinner, we relaxed in the cockpit, and took in our peaceful surroundings. Out of nowhere, a fledgling bird crash landed on our gunnel. We were as surprised as the clumsy bird was. The mama called to the baby and he cried back, but seemed afraid to attempt the leap from the boat to the dock above. We encouraged him in singsong voices and he finally went for it, but crashed into one of the pilings and fell back onto Mystic. The wind was too much for the inexperienced little adventurer. He shook off each crash then took a deep breath and readied himself to try again. It took two more attempts before he was finally successful and joined his mama in a tree nearby. Every species has moments of fear that require determination and courage. We witness and experience this often.

We enjoyed our stop at the Oriental free dock, finding it comfortable and safe with air conditioned bathrooms near the docks for boaters to use. The people are warm and friendly. Many of the small towns we go through offer free dockage to transient cruisers. The thought is that boaters will bring money to spend in the community if they have a place to stay overnight. It works for everyone; a win/win opportunity.

We settled in for the night, hoping that the wind would lessen while we slept. We'll head for Belhaven in the morning. There is a free dock there as well. Who knows what we'll find there!

Towne Creek Marina Beaufort, North Carolina

We were up and off the hook by 6:30 am on a fast track to go under the Surf City Swing Bridge for the 7:00 opening. As we approached, it became obvious there was no swing bridge. After a little research we learned that it has been replaced by a 65 foot structure which we could easily slip under. We were not disappointed, we were happy to be on our way early to begin the long day ahead.

Passing a tow on the ICW

Gorgeous pink house along the ICW

We were heading for Beaufort (Bo Fort), North Carolina 65 miles north. The morning passed easily until we got to the Onslo Swing Bridge where we found 8 foot shallows. We slowed our speed and moved cautiously, hoping it was just a blip and the depths would rise again. As we entered the area around Camp Lejeune, we saw another shallow spot at the New River Inlet. One of the green markers was clearly on sand, indicating that part of the channel was currently a sand bar.

Is that really a green marker?

Channel marker on a sand bar

The ICW runs through a target range at Camp Lejeune. It is closed for navigation during target practice. Big signs with lights indicate whether or not it is safe to pass. We came through here in 1983 and were stopped by a military boat. We sat at anchor for two hours until the recruits completed their training. It is quiet this time we pass through, so we cruised among the many targets along the waterway and moved on without delay.

Military Targets

We entered Bogue Sound which is lined with spoil islands. It's a very wide waterway that ends by running between Swansboro and Moorehead City. The channel is quite narrow and, at times so shallow we have to slow to a crawl as depths drop as low as 7 feet. We made the 20+ mile crossing with clenched teeth. This area is popular with boaters. The water is very jumbled and looks like sloshing water in a washing machine without the clothes. We were passed by hundreds of boats, some very courteous, others complete idiots! As we arrived at Moorehead City, a captain came over the VHF, hailing the USCG. He wanted to report seeing another captain drinking at the helm. Other boaters were not happy with this report and begin to harass the caller. All we wanted was to get across to Beaufort safely. We slid up through the middle of the chaos, around and under the high bridge that leads to Towne Creek Marina where things finally quieted down.

Lost fishing boat along ICW

Spoil Islands

Spoil Islands

Patriotic Home

Towne Creek Marina was shallow but passable for us. We went slowly, making sure we were within the channel markers. Dave called the marina who gave us instructions on how to make it through the harbor and into our slip. We were here last year with S/V Veritas but we entered this harbor from a different direction. It was easy to make our way in, following the directions we'd been given. We docked at the end of a face dock which has seen better days. Face docks cost more than slips because transient boaters like the ease of coming in and out of them. The Dock Master charged us the lower slip price because of the condition of the face dock we were on. 

Mystic at the end of the dock, on the left, flag flying

We walked into town for a beer at Fishtowne Brewery. As we walked over the Towne Creek Bridge we noticed that all the derelict liveaboard boats that we saw during our last visit are gone. Later, the Dock Master told us that Beaufort passed several laws that excluded anchoring within specific city limits. Instead of the favored location near the low bridge North of the marina, the boats now congregate near the high bridge south of the marina. The area next to Towne Creek was being developed when we were last here. It is finished now with a lot more dock space and a city launch ramp. Change is everywhere along the waterway!

Towne Creek has a tiki hut bar next to the docks. We stopped on our way back to the boat and tried to order a beer but the bartender was overwhelmed and never able to serve us. We had a nice chat with a local truck driver. This was a good day for u s. Dave's arms are sore from holding the tiller for many hours through the rough waters. We went to sleep relieved to have made it past Bogue Sound.

Towne Creek Marina

The wind picked up to about 20 mph at midnight, which woke Dave. He doubled all our lines, removed the sun awning, wind scoop and flags. He checked radar and found an offshore system bringing big wind out of the south that would change to southwest then to west before easing. We are lucky to be past Bogue Sound before this system hit. Sometimes things just work out!

Sloop Creek North Carolina

We woke to a hot, sunny morning in Southport and began preparing to leave by 10:00 am. We walked Mystic back out of her slip then moved forward through the docks and out into the channel for an easy departure.

Ten to twelve miles north, is the Cape Fear River, where we will cross four miles of open water. There is a tide here but the river always flows out because so much water is running down. We began the crossing at near low tide and had to fight a huge 3.5 mph current that held us back. We hoped this would switch once we got to mean low tide when the current and the tide would not longer be working against us.

Dave dug out our autopilot to give us a break from the helm for the 15 mile journey on the Cape Fear River. We still had to pay attention but can relax from fighting the tiller. This proves to be an easy passage; not so much, the rest of the day.

We went through Snow's Cut where we hit bottom following Bob's blue line. It was near low tide so maybe we were off his course just a little. A quarter mile later, we came close to hitting again. It was a relief to see mostly deep water from there on. Carolina Beach is gorgeous, just a harrowing shallow water spot to navigate in our deep keel boat.

Dredge making passage

Beautiful colors; water, marsh and sand dunes

The clear and clean water turned a beautiful aqua green as we passed each inlet. It feels tropical in these sections! Dave wants to jump overboard for a swim but we move on, out of the shallows as fast as we can.

Carolina Beach Inlet waves rolling in

We had to wait 50 minutes to go under the Wrightsville Beach Bridge and 15 minutes for the Figure 8 Bridge. At Wrightsville Beach we waited with S/V Cayuga. We saw them anchored dead in the middle of North Harbor basin in Southport. We asked where they were headed; they said Sloop Creek. We were hoping to anchor there as well. The slow travel and waiting on bridge openings put us in a place with limited options. Sloop Creek was really our only choice to stop before dusk.

Cayuga anchored at Southport

The ICW was very busy. Boats passed us in all directions. One solo powerboater passed by several times taking a long look at us. I thought he was admiring Mystic because of her age and classic look, she gets a lot of attention. On his third pass he slowed and yelled to us, "You guys need any provisions, a hot shower? I live nearby and have a slip you can use." We answered, " No thanks, we're good. Just stopped in Southport." We are always amazed and delighted by the generosity of strangers although, at times, some offers make me think of Dateline NBC and wonder if we are dodging a bullet. Our instincts are our friend.

Everywhere we go...derelict boats

ICW Dome house

Tiki hut pontoon

Osprey families on all markers

Cayuga arrived at Sloop Creek first and dropped anchor right on top of the designated anchorage indicated on Active Captain (a crowd sourced cruising and navigation app). We slipped in behind them, just off the ICW and outside the channel. It's a perfect spot to stage for the Surfside Swing Bridge opening in the morning.

Cayuga anchored at Sloop Creek

We enjoyed a cool night promising a good nights rest. Fishing boats zoomed by us all evening which makes it hard to fall asleep. It's a good thing we have excellent anchor lights. I stood in our companionway, looking to the sky and find myself humming; Starry, Starry Night!